TwoBits

Not necessarily looking to duplicate this jig head, just make something similar. My link

Do-It made their ball head jig mold after the Eakins finesse jig became popular. I'm sure its the same jig head.

I was at Bass Pro Shops today. Picked up the KVD Cranking rods and you are exactly correct. That rod is not nearly as soft as the Daiwa VIP's. The KVD rod has a backbone with a whippy tip. The VIP is more parabolic. Though , I think your correct the KVD Tour would be a nice crankin rod. Its probably a bit heavier than most like. But I think way too much is made of rod weight. I may be wrong, but that's the way I see it and I've been doin this bass fishin thing for a lot of years.

I bought the 2T at Ace True Value Hardware yesterday. I got the last two on the rack. Is there a reason why True Value won't get any more ?

I Googled by the mod number , Daiwa VIP53T:7 , and got a Japanese auction site too bad I don't know Japanese Daiwa may still sell these in Japan. This thread raised my curiosity so I emailed Daiwa about this series of rods and I will report back if I get a reply. And I did some research, they are E-Glass rods. Quantum has brought out an E-Glass rod, its the KVD Tour crankbait series. Just looking at the specs they appear to be similar to the VIP series only red in color and not the Daiwa honey color. Not real expensive either, Tackle Warehouse has them on sale for $130, right now.

Are these VIP rods S-Glass or E-Glass ? I also have a 6 foot VIP that I use for throwing shallow cranks in heavy wood cover, where I need the accuracy of a shorter rod. Is it possible to re-do the handle , maybe split the grip and do away with the foregrip ?

I own one, but I don't think its for sale. I enjoy the rod too much. Its been my #1 crankbait rod for about the last 15 years. Why is Diawa so quick to discontinue their good rods ? They quit making the Light and Tough and then brought them back out again, I would like to see the VIP series brought back also.

A Ryobi, 300, 600, + 1000 degree for $18 . Any tips on using this for painting jigheads with powder paint ? I've tried to use the search function, but I can't seem to narrow the results to " heat gun " , I get results for " heat " and for " gun " .

David, I'm guessing you haven't used these Hookerheads ? Because if you have, you will find they are better than a screw lock. The small hook acts against the big hook to lock the bait in place. Until you have one in your hand and work with it, that may not be evident. I've been making my own screw lock shakyheads for the past year. My draw partner in a recent BFL showed me these Hookerheads and gave me a couple to try out. I didn't think much about it till I put a finesse worm on the head and saw how it locked the worm in place. The hook also doesn't tear up the end of the worm as badly as a screw lock, once the worm has been torn off a screw lock, the end has to be bitten off. Not so with the Hookerhead. I'm working at modifying a mold to make the Hookerhead. You are correct in the screw lock being cheaper to purchase and/or make. But if I can convert, I will.

I've recently found these shakyheads and the bait holder on these are excellent. They hold the bait in place as well as anything I've found. Now, how to modify a mold to make these is another issue. http://www.aandmbaits.com/products1.php?id=60&subcat=CUSTOM%20COLORS&id2=62#' rel="external nofollow">

Drill press problem solved .........by one trip to Harbor Freight . Bought a 5-speed for $40 + tax . Exactly what I was looking for at a price I wanted to pay. This drill press was the same price as the Dremel attachment at Sears but I won't be limited to small bits, which I believe the largest bit size for the Dremel is 1/8 " . This is a great site because it has great posters !! Mucho thanks for the guide in the right direction. And hey, that Harbor Frieght place is the deal huh ? I could spend a lot of time and money in there, wishin I'd bought a drill press vice while I was there.

This may be just the ticket, here's the rotary tool drill press accessory ... http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Power+Tool+Accessories&pid=00953169000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Rotary+Tool&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes This would be far more versatile than the drill press. I could justify spending more money. Now, how much money do I want to spend on a Dremel ? Just the basic tool or a set with a lot of accessories ?

A Dremel is a consideration. I would have far more use for a Dremel than a bench top drill press. In fact, I saw a Dremel set at Lowes for $75, it was some kind of anniversary special. What do you consider a bigger drill bit ? I doubt if I ever use over 1/4 " bit .

Hey, I'm gonna have to get to Harbor Freight, I'd be tickled to death with a $43 drill press. Thanks for the info.

I've found this Cummins drill press for $50, but the shipping was $30 to $50 and there's no stores close. http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,128.htm That Harbor Freight press may be a close as I'm going to find, and they have a store in Oklahoma City, not very far away.

Are there any basic bench mount drill presses for $50 or less ? All I can find are those sold in Lowes, Home Depot, or Sears in the $100 range. I have a very limited use for one and don't need a top of the line unit with any bells and whistles. Basically, I just want one with a tilting tray.

I just bought a cheap toaster oven to use for painting my jigheads with powder paint. I've been using a cig lighter to heat the heads but its far too inconsistent and I'm getting bubbling and burning. Can someone give me a primer on using the toaster oven? The oven I bought does not have a thermostat. It has four settings .... toast, bake, broil, and warm. After testing, it appears the bake is around 400* and the toast and broil are hotter than that. I'm still not sure what temp that " warm " is . I think I'm gonna have problems with temps, is that true ? When you use a toaster oven, do you take one jighead out of the oven at a time ? Then close the door, dip that jig, and then go back for another. Or do you take out the entire grill with the jigheads hanging from it ? Thanks in advance.

I'm having a heck of a time powder painting 3/4 and 1/2 oz football jigs. Can't seem to get them to the right temp using a lighter. These larger mass heads aren't as easy as the small stuff. Anyone have any tips , other than spending $50 on a fluid bed ?

How are you attaching the blade to the eye of the hook ? The Eaker Shakers would be very simple to use , just have to drill another hole at the bottom of the blade. But getting it on the eye of the hook is the trick.

That's what I needed to know. I thought I could prolly do that with no problem, but I wanted to know for sure before I placed my order for the mold and hooks. Thanks

Depends on the size blade your using, most good spinnerbait fishermen I know want the blade to run on top of the hook. They don't want it to extend too far past the back of the hook. It also depends on the length of the head arm. Go to the tackle store and look at Hank Parkers Classic bait. It has a short head arm and will have a longer blade arm. IMO, Hanks bait is the best spinnerbait ever built. If your really into building and fishing spinnerbaits, I'd recommend Hanks new DVD called Spinners. It will be the most unusual fishing video you've ever watched but he will tell you a whole lot about every part of his Classic spinnerbait and why its built like it is. I think Hank still has a web site and you can find his DVD there.

I'm wanting to make football jigs with the Do-It FBWW-4-AF mold. It takes an FG12 weedguard, all I have are FG30's and I really don't want to purchase the FG12's. What are the differences between the FG12 and FG30 ? I understand the FG12 is a smaller diameter, but would it not be possible to thin out an FG30 to fit the mold ? I'm not really concerned about a heavy guard on these jigs, I will be fishing clean banks and bottoms. If I get into heavy cover then I'll go to another style of jig with the heavier FG30 guard. I'm just trying to avoid purchasing more fiberguards.

has a tip on page 20 on how to increase the longevity of skirts on a J-Mac jig. They use a " plastic quick-tie " cinched around the skirt collar on the neck of the jig. Its a good tip that works well. I call them " cable ties " , and I posted about these last summer in this forum for use on spinnerbaits and jigs. I buy the 4" ties and I've found them in assorted colors of white, black, red, green, and yellow. I mostly use red to add a little red color to the bait, which may be an old myth or superstition, but I always like some red on all my baits. I have a lot of older baits that the collar is detiorating and either loosening or completely breaking. Cable ties have saved a lot of skirts for me.

Thanks to everyone for the good info, its much appreciated.