TBait

http://www.imakatsu.co.jp/movie/javallon0506-2.wmv

It is available or a different product. I ordered some from Lure Hardware and that is the stuff I am looking for. If it is the same (g10fr4), it must vary in appearance by manufacturer greatly. People are Tight lipped and understandable..I am tight lipped on a couple of things myself.

Never seen this thickness offered. .031 is the closest I have seen. 1/32nd..Is your .040 yellow/ yellow green/more clear than yellow?

Got some from McMaster Carr? It is very yellow...not like that of Lure Hardware's fibre board bills. Any idea where to get the clearer stuff?

Thanks!

What kind of prices are being paid for this stuff? Just trying to find the best price. Looking for a 2'x4' section or larger. Help?

Ranger has dropped him for his actions..

making your own spinnerbait mold....pretty neat http://www.wmi.org/sql_messages_html/onfly_file/doc.asp?num=28316&ini=d:%5Casp_ini%5Cfishing_tactics_3way.ini&no_nav=

I dont know what you could do that would give you the strength you are needing. Lexan is made to flex....any flexing that would occur would probably break the adhesive. Lexan can be formed into shapes with a consistent temp of around 300 degrees. See Lapala...he may have more ideas and more experience with this.... Mike

Is there a reason for laminating other than acheiving a thicker piece? Just buy it thicker to start with? Not sure what you are trying to do?

Durhams Water Putty...may be the better answer...I believe there used to be a tutorial on mold making. Water putty after it is baked..is almost like a piece of marble. nothing like plaster of paris. Very easy to work with.

Iwata Eclipse CS.......lower pressures, less compressor noise, gravity feed...flawless. The perfect brush at a decent price!

.031

http://k-mac-plastics.net/epoxyglas-g10-fr4-sheets.htm

The round collar/bearing that tightens to the square shaft. Squeaked on mine. Put a drop or 2 of oil on the round collar that supports the shaft at the opposite end from the motor. It sits in the metal saddle. Its not really a bearing but acts like one. They are chrome plated generally and i think that has something to do with the squeak noise.

You want to buy another VL Set ? Since we are both in Cincy there wouldnt be any shipping, I could meet you some where. Havent used my VL in 2 years. All 3 needles etc. Would like to see your baits. Have you posted any pics on the site as of yet? Mike

you need some lube on the threads/ beeswax soft will stop this problem. Iwata medea-lube. Air is escaping through the threads. You need a tight seal...similar to Teflon tape.

If you are using a solid balsa blank ( non thru wire construction ) it will work. If you are glueing 2 halves together, the shot is very difficult to deal with while trying to manipulate the halves throughout the glueing process. I would stick with a 1piece solid weight while doing thru wire construction. jmo Mike

Straight from their website.... Auto Air Colors can be cured in a spray booth with air movement, by infrared heat lamps, or a heat gun Curing in Spray Booth- A spray booth is the preferred environment for painting vehicles with the Auto Air Colors. Bake paint at 120-150?F for 15-20 minutes or until colors are completely dried. For quicker drying times, increase airflow rate and booth temperature. Curing in Open Conditions- Recommended minimum temperature 70?F and low humidity. Curing Auto Air Colors in humid or cold damp conditions may require extended exposure to heat. Use airflow to speed up drying time. Cure when colors are wet or dry. Auto Air Colors are cured with heat. Use heat gun or infra-red lamp to cure colors. If not curing with heat, allow colors ample time to dry prior to taping or clear coat application. Drying time will vary depending upon environment. In Infra-red lamp (IR) ? allow lamp to cure colors at a safe distance generally over 12 inches to prevent blistering paint. Duration may vary from 5 ? 30 mins. coat buil-up, wetness and conditions. Cure colors dry to the touch without tack. A heat gun is effective when curing smaller areas such as body panels, tanks, fenders, helmets, etc. Generally colors cure 1-2 minutes per square foot. Keep heat gun moving and at a safe distance of 6? or more to avoid blistering. Cure colors dry to touch without tack.

Jed, I havent experienced the problem with AA however have with other taxidermy paints. Have you heat set the paint with a blow dryer or flashed with a torch. What color AA were you using? I use the white, black, and interference colors. You might find something on airbrush.com/forums in this regard as they use this product quite often and have many write ups on it. Possibly in regards to clearcoating after spraying AA. I would take a look for a quick answer. Mike

I have heard this as well and to be honest have stuck the nose in bags of Berkley powerbaits and there is that wd40 smell...I am sure it isnt the same but smells kind of like wd40.

Jed, I too have run into the same problem. The etex does not lay properly over this paint and it creates craters or an uneven surface. Has to be a chemical reaction.. Mike

If you want Auto Air in Cincy there is only one place that stocks it... Smyth Automotive in Mt. Carmel...This is their main paint store. Mike

Balsa.....High humidity. Seal the bait with 1 coat Etex. Begin painting.... and apply second coat of etex.....now torch to remove bubbles..... I have had the bait sealed with first coat of Etex almost explode due to the heat from the torch expanding the moisture under the first coat of etex. They will crack to let the humidity expand. Everything needs to be dry, really dry. I saw a bunch of handmades at BPS yesterday that were cracking and the paint was peeling off of baits priced at $22.95 each. Not sure but it sounds like a humidity problem as well. The clerk said they were all starting to do it, he threw them in a basket and took them to the back room.

Making things too complicated You can buy lips at a place like lurehardware.com fro 20 cents a piece.. or you can buy a 4x8 sheet of Lexan for 60 dollars.... That would make 1000 lips mighty cheap. You have internet access...order it off the internet... I am familiar with the shrinky dink stuff and I havent seen a uniform shrinkage from my past experience. But I was helping my daughter make figures.. They buckled and disformed. I suppose if it were an emergency...but I cant imagine that kind of emergency. M