TBait

I am aware that the directions say Co2 is what take the gas bubbles out of Etex. But I think there is more to it. Thickness of the topcoat. Let me start by saying the initial heating of etex up to about 20 or 30 minutes will turn this stuff into practically water. I wont argue that you can breathe on etex and get rid of the bubbles. However I have found a better way. As you begin to heat the surface of the bait and the etex begins to run like crazy. the thinning of the epoxy and running actually allows the bubbles to get to the surface easier. Yes you have to continually rotate the bait because the etex is wanting to drip off however it gives you a much cleaner finish and virtually bubble free. Once heated and happy with the degassing...put on the drying wheel. The thinner etex allows the bubbles to escape faster and easier. A bubble would reach the surface faster in water than lets say syrup. A much thinner viscosity is created by heating. I have not tried heating devcon, but tend to think that this would expedite the set of the epoxy thickening the viscosity versus thinning. I dont use devcon other than for glueing bills in place. Perhaps some of the regular users of devcon could jump in here. I think if I had the time and spare change I would get with Richoc again and get his prescription. I think he is on to something with superheating etex. An initial thinner viscosity allowing the bubbles to rise and escape and a super fast cure time... I believe he said 20 minutes or less. He also thins the etex with something prior to heating that allows him to shoot through an airbrush if needed. Again thinning should aid in relief of the bubbles. Bubbles can escape easier with a lower viscosity topcoat. If the bubbles dont reach the surface or near the surface... all of the Co2 in the world wont help you.

For degassing.....not sure about doing this for Devcon. I am thinking..this will decrease the amount of time you have to work with the glue. Another comment is that a hairdryer will push out whatever it takes in to its intake...meaning dust etc. I prefer a torch myself... jmo

I would box up and take it back....and buy one that is in the 5-6 rpm range...wouldnt use it... Mike

Have you verified this by turning it on and counting for 1 minute? Seems awful slow and I would say that this will not be fast enough if this is the case... you will probably get sagging of the clear coat.

I think that is what make handmade cranks so sought after. No 2 are alike and more of them percentage wise have special actions or characteristics that catch more fish. Comparing them to store bought mass produced cranks. I agree....

What type of wood are you using....?

.According to what he is saying.....his paint is coming off after fishing with the baits...... This would mean that his topcoat is not holding up.....

Can you be more specific as to how your topcoat is being breeched..... what is allowing water to come into contact with your paint???? How is the topcoat at fault? What are you fishing for?

I have heard that you shouldnt place the line tie any further than halfway from the nose of the bait to the end of the bill... further out wobble closer in wiggle...

Do not mix with wood stirs... mix with a twisted pieces of clean wire shaped like a wisp. Use the 3 container method. 1st container.....resin 2nd container......hardener equal amounts Pour one into the other and begin your mixing. after about 2 minutes pour entire contents into clean 3rd mty container. Remix and this will ensure that you got a good mix without any soft spots. I have found that Etex can continue to cure for quite a few days. The first 24 hours and the finish will seem a little soft or rubbery...give it time and it will cure. If you need your lure that quickly...you should have thought about that a week ago....LOL

Already given me some great advice... Thanks again! Mike

I had 3 years of German.....along time ago....and its not coming back very well... looks neat though.

Adam, I appreciate your reply. I am sure in the future there will be plenty of questions headed your way. Thanks Mike

If you have question regarding Iwata or other airbrushes perhaps this guy can help. adamr@medea-artool.com From airbrush.com/forums

You could never convince me to use Devcon. Never............never..........aint happening. you must not have heard that story I told about that Yellowish white looking FORD truck that I saw the other day........It had a DEVCON sign on its side. :-D Darndest thing I ever saw!

I will give it a try....thanks. Mike

I used to have no problem with hook hangers and for that matter still get by. However I used to use Stainless wire for my thru wire design. Since then I have completely switched to Copper. As we all no copper can be cut very easily with a pocket knife. The advantage is "hunting". I guess I will continue to very carefully clean the eyes of the hook hangers out. I have been using a very small dremel bit to punch thru....it works fine...just looking for a better way.

What happens when the epoxy ETEX or DCON drys around the tape? How do you get it off? I can see this for paint...just not having an easy time with the epoxy? Seems it would be permanently secured around the hanger.

How do you prevent the Vaseline from breaking down into the finish...possibly contaminating the ETEX and weakening the finish on a good area of the lure? Why dont you want a little ETEX to over lap the bill or lip? I have never experienced a problem with an 1/8 of an inch overlap and always thought it would help to waterproof the bait. Denatured alcohol cleans lips and works great as a paint cleanup. I am very interested in finding something that will keep the hook hangers clear and free of etex while drying on a drying wheel. Just cant risk contamination of the other surface areas of the bait...

How long did you wait to apply the ETEX and did you let it drip off of the lure before putting it on the drying wheel. I have found that if you let too much drip off ( trying to remove the excess finish ) Once the bait starts to dry, it will dimple. Etex has a long working time. So I doubt that you applied it while it was starting to set. Try leaving a little more...not a lot but a little more finish on the bait next time before putting it on the drying wheel.

http://www.316lurecompany.com/hardbaits.html

I would go to airbrush.com/forums and post this question... These guys really know their brushes...some manufactures reps on there as well. The threads that the head of the brush screw onto....could be leaking...they recommend beeswax for these to form a tight seal, kinda like teflon tape...but dont use teflon tape. Not real familiar with badgers.

I had the same thing happen about a week ago.....not sure if it is the new site having problems or limitation on the number of pics..

I knew that....just trying to liven things up around here. I would be willing to say that Auto Air paints have UV inhibitors in them...havent read...but they are for automotive use. The craft paints.....now that is another story... uros and laquers as well should have uv inhibitors in them. Gel coat on truck tops was not able to be sprayed in a form to prevent fading..that is when they switched to painting the fiberglass tops. Now they stay pretty nice for quite some time. Same reasons fiberglass boats left outside fade or chalk. I did just see a Ford truck while I was at lunch..... it was a yellowish white. darndest thing I ever saw.... had a Devcon sign on it.

Thinking its a Ford huh? ...Fords are for guys that cant afford Chevrolets... I guess this sure beats an ETEX / DEVCON debate, huh?