Travis

Amazing how efficiency picks up when using 18 molds.

Molds are really the limiting factor starting out in my opinion. Everything else is secondary and really won't increase production by any meaningful amount in my experiences.

If you are talking about the 150 buck attachment...there are much better/cheaper options available.

All are commercially available deep diving plugs (20 plus any less isn't deep ). Different designs and lip configurations.

I typically try and to get as close to neutral buoyancy but still want it to rise. The more weight the more depth you can squeezer out of the same bait size/profile. It is counterproductive to constantly have a force in the opposite direction of where you are wanting to go. You have to think as a lure as a bobber/life jacket.

Definitely a crank that you should go out and buy a few true deep divers and study and more importantly fish them. Many guys don't have the equipment to really fish deep diving cranks. Crews Little John DD, Rapala DT 20, Norman D22, and Brians Deep Bee B24 are ones I would suggest fishing. Each is a little different in design.

Few guys make deep diving cranks. To hit a 20 ft depth looking at probably 2.5 + inch lip and the weight as low as you can get and as forward as possible to still keep the weight in the deepest part of the lure. Typically looking at a bait that is one 1 oz + range. You can add weight to bill if can't move the weight forward but better to redesign the crank in my opinion. Devil is in the details in regard to balance, build quality, and performances. The bait has to start diving when you crank, no time can be lost getting it "started".

I spent a little less than a year working in a lab at a metal and alloy plant while my wife was finishing up her masters wasn't a bad experience at all. My only knock was how dirty a job it was and that every morning when walking out to the car would have the finest "glitter" coating me. My wife used to joke I had been at strip club all night.

Amazing anyone has ever made a lure with the difficulty..........

The handmade/custom thing is all over the board. I don't get too caught up in it and am more concerned about is it a good bait. I enjoy woodworking and this sort of topic pops up frequently. I can hand cut dovetails, I can use some of the common dovetail guides that hold the saw at a given angle, or I can use my router and jig. I can get the same results using all three methods just the time needed for each differs. A solid clean hand cut dovetail impresses me the later not so much but yet they all perform the same function. One takes more skill and ability and we go down to one takes an average functioning person. One I will pay more for as I understand the craftsmanship/skill behind the product (view it as translating to the entire project) the other I typically would pay less for as it was built by an assembler. Some lure makers frequently cross back and forth across that line and go from being a craftsman initially to an assembler once we get the jigs and process in place. Some are always assemblers.

Very nice. That is one of those projects I would like to do. I want to build an acoustic guitar and then learn to play. Watched a few videos and looked at buying a book or two just haven't pulled the trigger. Details on the woods used?

Can always jump to the dark side and mold your lures if you want to really get down to replication. I never enjoyed the process as too much like stamping widgets.

I was just pointing out if you truly want the only variable to be the paint you can not succeed by doing it by hand. Even machinery screws things up. I use jigs, stops, etc.. just like you to reduce time and more reliably replicate lures if needing to make a lot of something. To be honest we are removing ourselves from the equation as much as we can. We are just the cheap labor on the production line.

Easy.... You have to invest in machinery and tooling and take the human element out of it.

No weight in the tail in the husky jerk near the size of the bait you are making. You are in between the two sizes of husky jerks. The weight should run in the belly from the "throat" to past the first hook hanger. You may need to add weight above the front hook hanger or closer to head depending on how your bait is built most likely as done in the HJ12 model (higher up in the bait/midline). I would recommend just floating one side by side with your lure to get it dialed in. I buy clearance baits all the time just for reference.

It doesn't take much sanding to get a smooth lure to base coat and shouldn't really need anything for a "leveler". However if don't want to sand out something like Zinsser Bulls eye primer will coat just as thick as the propionate or solo cups and give you a base coat meant to promote paint adhesion. Can just dip and hang baits. Likely will need to thin to get to the right consistency to meet your needs.

Balsa about the only time someone seals a bait with epoxy. With social media now you see a lot of guys doing stuff that well.. Typically I see it's use more for paint effect such as over foil or as mentioned glitter.

Are both parts of the question correct.

Different products have been passed off over the years for this process under the same name. I assume Cellulose acetate propionate is what actually was used based on many of its uses (inks, paints, screen printing, wood coatings, etc..). Propionate...isn't CAB (cellulose acetate butyrate) but really doesn't matter much to be honest. Just something to seal/coat the bait with. I don't know what the actual legit stuff historically reported to be used by Rapala really was. I used solo cups and found it to be just as effective and just easier to source. I had used the typical red or blue and the clear ones (used them the most). Most issues boil down to the top coat you used and reaction with the solo cups or propionate. I have one last bag of pellets that Swede sent but don't really know what it truly is. I can find out just wasn't something that I found worked any better than just sealing a bait in shellac so never took in to work with me to identify. Eastman probably the largest manufacture in the states but could be wrong.

Have been using the Eclipse HP-SBS Autographic brush for many years and no complaints at all in respect to a do it all type of brush. Used a lot cheaper brushes for many years also and they worked fine just had to figure out how to make them work. If there is a price range you want to stay in that might help change selections. I based my initial answer off about the cheapest way to go that absolutely will work and last.

I would recommend not going cheap. You don't have to buy the high end stuff but no need to mess with problem products upfront. In regards to paints just start out with Createx. Readily available and designed for airbrushes and common at Hobby Lobby and other similar craft stores. No need to thin, no need to strain, no need to do a lot of stuff as it just works. For an airbrush I would go with something like the Iwata Neo CN dual gravity feed brush. Just a decent starter brush from a company that makes solid products. Compressor with water trap. If you don't have one and are just starting out I would recommend either getting a pancake compressor nail gun kit as something every homeowner should likely have. They are typically loud but get the job done. I started and still use a Craftsman set up at times but mainly switched over to a small California Air Quiet flow 4710 model and very quiet in regards to compressors, light weight, and a joy to use. I also have a Fusion 1000 airbrush compressor that is very portable, small, and quiet but only bought it because on clearance for 25 bucks but also are normally in the same price range as the compressors above (less CFM however).

Typically you will have more issues with soft wood and glue lines when sanding but should not be an issue with douglas fir.

Carve away, the glue won't make much difference.

The Grainger model 9.3 lbs /in torque vs 25 to the McMaster model. McMaster is already wired and has a fan but imagine the shipping to Toronto area is the catch.

Flat, parallel, square, all just make things so much easier to repeat processes. I have a fairly complete shop and know we all find different tools more value able. That said a no 5 plane is hard to beat if you only are going to have one.