Travis

Centering squares generally what they are called. A 1 and 1/2 inch version works well for smaller dowels. Some pen turning sites also sell versions like Pete's and many make their own as he did as some like the longer length as it is easier for them to hold it and the blank at once while marking. Woodcraft has a pocket version.

I don't scuff circuit board lips but always do polycarbonate lips. In my opinion brittle doesn't factor into our application with bill installation. Top coat Devcon (30 minute) can crack if you wing the crank into a concrete piling or rip rap. I like fast cure because I can glue a few dozen bills in and then go straight to clear coating and never have had bills shift after placement this way. Nothing wrong with going slower cure just never found it to be an issue, now if one has to fiddle a lot to get the bill straight may be an issue (where lure build method and consistency comes into play).

Definitely need a photo. Off hand I can't think of a "honey" named color besides honey bun (Wave Worms). Honey to me would be a translucent color and depending on where you want to go with the color starting with an amber, rootbeer, or cinnamon color. May end up having to add a little brown, motor oil, yellow, chartreuse, etc.. depending on where you are wanting to go with it.

I only target bass. Typically I have used 5 minute epoxy, Devcon. It will turn yellow slowly over time and is visible if you leave squeeze out (especially on light colored baits). I like my bills to be flush with the bait and wipe all squeeze out off so no issues. I typical drill holes also but never had any bills fail that weren't drilled either. Never found it to make a difference to be honest but it takes only seconds to drill a few holes in a stack of bills so not like we are adding any significant time to the process. Some guys like to pin the bills also. Cranks I fish...yellow glue around the lip slot is the least of its problems.

I have always used Del's 4 inch "centipede" mold (open pour). One of those molds that if you know what you are doing can pour a lot in no time. No frills simple bait that produces. Likely can find similar mold makers or mold it yourself if you want (very easy to do) but aluminum molds always where I would end up on most lures. http://www.del-mart.com/cart/product.php?productid=17734&cat=298&page=1

Shellac has historically been used to combat pine resin issues prior to paint in woodworking.

Central Wisconsin....no basswood available. You can pay an arm and a leg and get basswood at Menards, Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc. but I wouldn't pay more than a few bucks a board foot as just too easy to get if you live in WI, MI, IN, PA, OH, etc... Unless looking for something rare/special no need to order online as just paying a lot for shipping and usually being charged a premium. Most of the common US woods are readily available locally for most of us in central/eastern US. Bennett Hardwoods or Granite Valley will have it and probably less than 30 minutes from you Dinger (along with cedar). Any decent place will source what you want also with no issues. Depending on who you know might find basswood for cheap (free) but will have to air dry it likely. Around here many run small operations on their property and basswood typically cut and pushed into a burn pile to free up space for for more desirable trees. I got about 250 board feet via this way just had to air dry it.

Shouldn't be too difficult to set up a dehumidifier in a room to get the humidity down. I have had to rig up humidity controlled rooms at work a few times and easily get from mid 50 down to single digits running a dehumidifier (multiple) in small 10x10 spaces. A small bathroom would be no issue.

Typically their 1 x stock is kiln dried and I don't think any of the Menard's I have been in have anything but kiln dried woods stored inside. The "never ending" 11% sale going on now also so will save a little.

There were a few floating around for a while years ago that were very similar to the 4 inch. At one point I was buying 100 count bags of Larew Salt craws for 8 to 12 bucks direct from them. At one time I had several thousand of them. Scary to think about the numbers of those I went through at one point. Definitely wouldn't be too difficult to mold if you go that route.

Thanks Mark. It is sturdy and so far has done the job well. I ended up using a splayed leg design for stability. There is also a 3/4 ply bottom dadoed in the bottom 2x 6 to create a nice space. I lined it with plastic and then put some heavy duty garbage bags in it and filled with sand then folded them shut/duct taped and then put a 1/4 ply lid on it. That way I can easily remove the sand if needed. I will also highly recommend the Rockler work bench casters. They work very well. Many modify them by joining them together so you can raise one side at once by stepping on the bar spanning between the two.

I don't use pine too much (for lures) but sure it can be used. Go with the best grade and buy bigger boards. The pith is junk and you want to use quarter sawn or rift sawn. You rarely will find that in smaller width boards. I would look at 12 inch wide boards and get the closest straightest grain possible. Essentially stay away from any boards exhibiting a lot cathedral grain. In the board below I would essentially rip it length wise and the center section gets sent to the burn pile. Beetle kill pine is another option and is typically ends up having less pitch do the the prior infestation with beetles and resulting fungi. Overall I find it works up a lot better. Can find pieces with out as much "blue staining"that is whiter in color than many of the other species of pine. The lathe stand below is from beetle kill pine and often do to the color it gets graded low so nicer pieces can be found for cheap, however it is gaining popularity and some places are starting to charge more.

Making a mold isn't hard to do just takes a little patience and thought. Much of the results however are dependent up on t he guy/gal making the mold. For the average DIY guy I think POP is about the cheapest, easiest to source material that will give very good results. I used POP for a lot of molds initially and poured a lot of lures out of POP molds. At a few dollars for several multiple cavity molds and ease of making very hard to beat. I switched to Durham's Rock Hard Puddy (yellowish molds below) rather quickly however and find it suits my needs better in regards to detail longevity, takes rough handling better, but still needs sealing. Can chuck a few other "similar" products like dental molding materials and art/sculpture products like Permastone. A mold release agent is nice to use and guys use an assortment of waxes, oils, greases. PAM (vegetable spray), Johnson's Paste wax, Vasololine, etc... all get used but products designed for use are easier to use and typically cause less issues with sealing a mold later down the road. Mann's Ease release is cheap enough and gives excellent results. I still usually wipe down and clean the molds with a solvent prior to sealing. Typically on water based molding material little issue and doesn't get absorbed. As mentioned prior undercuts are important in regards to initial molding of master as easy to get it locked into place if a hard master. I seal POP molds with thinned Devcon. I use no additives, backing, through rods, fiberglass reinforcement, no need for special baking procedures, etc. I think lure makers have a tendency to take something very simple and up the making it very involved and complicated for some reason (assume stems from the concept of making a better mouse trap.) Many threads touch on theses subjects but honestly never found the methods employed any added benefit but search the threads or ask away if any questions. I stack my molds in Rubbermaid containers and stuff them on a shelf when not in use. A few may have chipped over the years but still going strong. At one time I had about 10 totes using the careful storage method below . I have used Bondo body filler also for quick molds both one piece and two piece. Gets you a mold very quickly for testing and fills in nicely in a pinch. The issue they get warm quick and without reinforcement start to warp and bend. I don't mess with these too often but is nice at times. Have used fiberglass resin also and found it to pick up detail better, but still issues with heat. Were several threads over the years on this and tricks, but my least favorite molds overall. Have made two piece stick baits and a lot of simple french fry style lures with bondo and just use a router bit on the drill press and x/y sled and "mill" them. Nothing fancy but works just fine. Both POP and Durham's are nice as they initially will let baits set up quicker but this can also be a downfall in thin wall appendages/tails and you start to get incomplete fills. Now in bulky lures it helps to cool down quicker but still takes a while. The same bait in RTV silicone takes much longer to cool but you can get the benefits of pouring a little cooler and getting thin appendages to fill. Just much depends on the bait. Had a guy that wanted a commercially available frog bait done in soft plastic. I went with RTV for it in order to get the legs to fill completely as cooled to quick in POP molds. Now the mud dog lure takes way to long to cool in RTV (bad enough in POP) so one has to have a lot of cavities or it goes very slow. RTV silicone molds shine in regards to hard masters. If the master is a hard material with undercuts then RTV is what I will switch to. The eye sockets in the shad below. I have molded hard masters with undercuts in silicone to then make "master" soft plastics to make molds from cheaper materials. I haven't used the aluminum resin stuff mentioned by Anglinarcher but is one that interests me if some of the quick cooling properties of aluminum molds are shared. Overall have used resin products the least typically because of cost and was routinely getting open pour aluminum molds for sub 20 bucks on ebay. Many of my molds I replaced with aluminum molds of similar design over the years as they became available and if I had fewer hobbies would likely get into making my own.

Any normal saws one has will cut equally well lip slots if set up properly and optimal blade choice. I typically use a band saw as find it about as quick as any of them and can comfortably cut slots with out a jig safely.

Press a button and let the lathe, mill, etc... do the work.

I don't think the molds hold up well unless using an epoxy type of sealer. Only molds I have used "oil" with were bondo body filler molds. I soaked them liberally with an oil based fish scent. These typically are short term molds. Really dependent upon the bait and its simplicity in regards to undercuts and details. Typically they were three inch senkos until mold makers started making the smaller senkos in aluminum.

Typically I cut lip slots in baits prior to shaping. Much easier to cut the slot with the rectangular/square stock. That being said after a few lures I can pretty accurately eye ball so only a minimum amount of alteration is needed (few passes with sand paper). You can also make a jig to hold the round bait so it is consistently registered correctly and make your cuts.

It is some messy stuff for sure. I rarely use it because I just don't find it enjoyable to work with. As far as scrap piece you can source it from about any of the big box home improvement stores. PVC trim board will usually run about 25 bucks for an 1" x 8" x 8' section. I typically used the vinyl brick molding or preferably 2"x2" trim board (12 ft runs 20 bucks) because I end up with a more substantial piece after getting rid of the outer "skin" and it runs cheaper" and swim baits about the only thing I use this stuff for. Around here can frequently get it in the damaged section for much cheaper as it ends up dented and ends all buggered up.

Gong to get answers all over the board on this one. I use Devcon thinned with acetone. Over the past 14 years or so I have tried about all the usually ones that get mentioned and still have always went back to Devcon . Elmers is popular with some, modge podge, high temp spray paints, some just coat heavily with an spray oil (WD 40, PAM, etc..) and countless other products that fall into the same basic categories. Really boils down to what you are capable of doing and the results you are willing to accept.

Agree with Nathan. Once you start adding different "tricks" they don't necessarily equal more action. They have to be in agreement. If you take a look at most commercial baits of this design you will note the curly tail is much smaller as not to create the drag mentioned above. They also typically use single joint attachment on that rear section to also not kill action. That tail probably should be reduced by 50% based on the specs you have there. That tail is more in line with something you might see on a 12 inch or larger bait (may still be a little larger). I am sure some of the musky/pike guys can jump in on this one as not a bait I have fished or built.

They call them "packing" when I was looking a long time ago. https://www.merriartist.com/Parts_for_Iwata_Hi_Performance_Plus_s/744.htm Do you still have the o ring to get measurements. Around here the Ace Hardware carries a very large selection of o rings. If don't have the o ring can always take the brush up and find the one that is needed by trial and error. It has been some time but Coast Airbrush is where I bought my brush and had them upgrade all the o rings at the time. http://www.coastairbrush.com/repairs.asp

Contact via the site or check ebay. It appears to pop up when he lists baits.

Yes, sorry should have clarified different industry. I have looked at some of the lure patents and speculate that some are nothing more than well elaborated musings and unsubstantiated claims. None the less , as pointed out, few have the pockets to mess with it for the money they are making (frequently not making).

I have supported patent litigation a few times over the years. You should see the money spent on a multi billion dollar a year product. Just delaying something in court for a few days equates to millions in revenue.

If only I could have a few hours to load up a cart or two.....