Travis

Metal bill going to likely be a hard sell to bass anglers (along with the VDL technology). Don't get me wrong bass anglers are quick to purchase about anything especially if a company slaps some initials on it but year after year so many of these lures fail to garner enough sells to keep them around. There is a reason why it isn't mainstream and cost isn't one of them at the price point of baits in today's market as it boils down to if the bait really is good or just another gimmick. You have a few guys seeking out some metal bill cranks but far and few and those usually more about nostalgia. Hot and Tot was popular in some small regions but definitely not bass fishing meccas 20 to 30 years ago and the hellbenders even further back but more about anglers were able to actually fish structure for the first time and lack of other methods to do similar. Unless you get a legit pro using your lure and winning likely not going to be anything most bass anglers are going to gravitate towards. Most guys that are bass anglers and follow tournaments can think of several lure companies with sponsored pros, full color adds in the major magazines, regional and national following that came and went rather quickly so 80k on what many would see as a potential gimmick is a hard one to accept. I figure you either have done the research and can make a valid operational decision or you are on the other end. Best of luck and perhaps your lures will be mainstream in the industry in the future.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html Moisture cure so you need to be aware of humidity and reducing exposure of your bulk product. Lots of threads on the site regarding various methods "tap the can", bloxygen, and xylene usually the three main topics with this stuff.

You are correct and one of the reasons why I have long believed that ratio dispensing isn't the factor for improper set up on epoxy as frequently as many believe. This has been mentioned a few times over the years but you have guys using scales . With the correct information one could do the calculations to determine accurate weights but I don't think it is needed (well I do but for another reason below). The few I have spoken with will it works for me approach which is fine and more important a key observation. We know the scale will result in incorrect proportions (if no calculations are being done) and most that have used epoxy for any length of time know you have to be "sloppy" with dispensing volume to have issues. Most are dispensing "approximate volumes" and have no issues. Based on experiences and information from others we can be off a certain amount and still have the epoxy work. The important thing to remember this is chemistry and for the reaction to occur optimally the closer to the equal volumes the better. It directly translates to the performance of the product (physical properties of the top coat). We can be off on our mixture a certain percentage and still have a hard top coat but not the technical specks given by the optimized procedure. Best bet to achieve the optimal properties is to use volume method and measure using a a method one can negate volume loss on transfer. Syringes are the easiest repeatable method that is economical. Now you just need to mix well.....

Lower air pressure, thinner paints, finer consistent pigments (higher end paints), and a clean brush/needle. Working closer to the bait will also help but you need good control of your brush and low pressure. Stencils and working on at times technique in regards to angles you are spraying at will also help.

They look really good to me. I think those are definitely the eyes I will go with next as they just look better that most of the ones I have sourced from other places. I don't see the price as that bad either if I consider my time in making a bait.

Lots of threads on the subject..... The short and sweet version for the average hobbyist (not wanting to spend money) there is not a product you can use to get the desired effect as they all go to pot with our top coats. HVAC Foil tape the most economical way for the average guy to get similar results. Some of the big box store spray paints get some use but I don't find them being really use able especially if selling. Alsa products, Spaz Stix and Cosmichrome also usually end up in these threads. Foil techniques and then electroplating usually gets mentioned also as they progress.

Problem with angled blocks and the use on test materials are the tendency for the material to shift if not designed properly. It is doable for sure but you just have to design jigs to firmly hold the blank from my experiences as frequently the wood will want to climb up the angled block (ramp). I like sleds as find them much more stable and more repeatable results than most miter gauges the typical DIY guy has on their table saw. I will run out to the shop and take some pictures.

A simple fence with t track allows the positioning of two stops on your cross cut sled. You can make different angle inserts to sit in your crosscut sled if needed. I prefer crosscut sled for this type of work and if so inclined a simple toggle clamp to hold the blank. For cutting the lip slot lay you rectangular blank on the sled and push forward to the stop and make first cut. The second stop would be located on tail end and you push the blank back to hit it and then make your 2 nd pass (or in reverse order doesn't matter). No having to readjust things just need a plie of rectangular blanks of the desired length. For baits you make frequently just mark the stop positions on the fence face with pen and mark the bait style.

https://patents.google.com/patent/US6753004B2/en?q=fishing&q=worm&q=biodegradable Eight different compositions and methods. Others out there also but these aren't too difficult to reproduce if one so desires. Can follow the citations to find other data.

Google patents will give you some recipes. Most of it is from Auburn fisheries department relating to "Power bait". Should be some old posts from me that link it.

Just make sure you are looking at your product. The Bob Smith I used years ago was 1:1 volume and not weight from what I recall. For example Devcon ratio by weight is 1.2:1 resin/hardner.

No real need to thin super glue except to extend potential working time. Super glue readily soaks into balsa based on the properties of the wood. Th super glue rapidly wick up the glue by capillary action into open "pores" of the tracheids and trachea of the xylem. Essentially you a packed array of straws, consisting of mainly very small diameters (tracheids) and larger straws (trachea). Our baits are made with these running horizontally the length of the bait. Line ties and tail hook hangers will run parallel with the "straws". One can visualize what occurs when you predrill and then screw the eye screw in and out. You score open several of these "straws" allowing superglue to run into these areas and set up. Horizontal you pass through and open up all those chambers for glue to fill/affix. Best bet is use the super glue in low humidity as it is a moisture cure product. Some of the epoxy boat rot repair products will use balsa to demonstrate the intrusion/wicking process extending 12 inches or more upon application up a plank of balsa. SEM image of balsa wood below. While these openings are small you have to remember their function. They transport water/minerals.

Bulk of guys have always been from US but definitely wouldn't say it was uncommon to have guys from other parts of the world since I joined in early 2004. There are guys that definitely know each other but mainly after joining the site. There were several TU meets where small group got to meet over some lure building, fishing, and food. I thought about going a few times but just never did.

LPO has been a very good about keeping TU as it functioned prior. That was concern of several when they were taking over but they were clear that would not be the case. Moderators are volunteers any one else gets paid. Many guys still read the threads but don't post/participate frequently.

I typically cleaned up the spru and seams with a knife then just ran a little wood puddy over the lure with my finger tip. Can't even really see it is there. I then sand with 220 grit sandpaper lightly.

Good summary Clemmy. I understand completely about the old timers. Unbelievable amount of knowledge was at your finger tips. I know I am very thankful for the hours spent in chats with several of these guys during that time (hours a night was common place).

I have a few files but they are designed for sharpening drill bits, saw blades, etc... have used them a few times on wood but of course less than ideal. I do have a solid set of riffler rasps that I like to use however. Some new rasps are something I have been wanting to get at some point. Just have held off as it can add up and haven't bitten the bullet yet. I figure once I decide and try to make a few Maloof style rockers will procure (treat myself) one or two. Darn hobbies add up.

Going to get lots of opinions on best bang for the buck knife. Like I mentioned earlier going to come down what you like and what you value. Some guys will use a name to validate it being the best bang for the buck then many are all about how cheap it is as being the best. Flex cut, , Hock, Helvie, Cape Forge, Warren, Pfeil, Butz..... and plenty others from commercial high run type of knives to guys making small batches of hand made carving knives. I typically use the Flex cut as they run on sale frequently and easy to get for a good price. Would be hard pressed not to get a good knife in the 20 to 50 buck range. I use several Hock plane blades in my Krenov style block planes and am sold on their overall quality of product and wouldn't hesitate to buy their stuff. Have wanted to try the Cape Forge at some point but run a little more. Better tools comment prior was in reference to using a dremel engraver. I use knives mainly and most cranks aren't exactly detailed so they really go quick once you get it down. For detail carving prefer the rotary tools. I only use 4 knives for the most part and after sharpening them well just use a leather strop for the most part after. I keep the baits I want to work on in small box with a tray up top and two plano boxe beneath it with various cranks or top waters I am working on. Portable and lets me work while watching TV. Doing anything in small batches becomes less productive for me so I try to work a series of baits as you get into a groove and know to take x passes on the right, left, bottom, etc.. and easier for me to keep things consistent.

You initial selection is fine. I would rather have a variable speed control dremel than the engraver. All sorts of other things you can use . A good selection of sharp knives can handle most everything. I like using the dremel and a handful of various bits for detail work. Knives pick your poison. I typically use flex cut as cheap, hold an edge, and find the handle shape comfortable to use. Really boils down to personal preference usually. Some like to just make their own carving knives. If better tools is the goal a Foredom is generally considered near the top of rotary tools for power carving. This would be more geared towards doing a lot of carving/detail work. For quick removal you will want something like the Saburr Tooth Buzz Out wheels and their carbide burrs. A mix of carbide burs, some Swiss diamond, blue cermacut, and ruby carvers would really round it out.

If no undercuts should be fine. For a wooden master another important aspect is seal/sand that master very well. A minimal of 220 grit. I use shellac to seal/sand to get a very smooth surface and use a very thin coat of mold release.

If the master is designed in a fashion that it gets locked into a rigid mold it will get locked and result in the master needing to be destroyed. I stopped baking clay a long time ago as just easier to remove if using it for a master and you end up destroying the master anyway. Usually a release agent isn't critical but won't hurt. Johnson's Paste Wax, Vasoline, or a commercially designed release agent can help (I use Mann Ease Release). Another useful trick for hard masters, if thick enough, is drill a hole and carefully screw in a wood screw. That way when you bake your clay you can then insert the screw and have a handle to pry/lift the master out with. I mainly use this technique on wood masters but have used it on clay. Switch to RTV as mentioned and doesn't become an issue. You can can also use bondo body filler to make the mold and demold once just set up. The mold will have some give to it and you can at time extract the master easier. Bondo boy filler molds aren't as robust as other molds but can make some decent molds for limited casting. Especially if just to make soft plastic masters.

Titanium dioxide. I never found the Createx Opaque white to be poor preforming about like most of the other airbrush paints that I have used over the years. I tried dipping in Kills and used Krylon H20 some also. I do seal all my baits with shellac first however as get much quicker build of coat as nothing is soaking in.

Have always used patterns also. Everything is on them. I do jot the information down in a book with a photocopy of the original pattern to replicate it. I make most of my patterns on 1/8 thick pieces of wood as last longer than paper and can use for many, many, years.

I buy various sizes and styles. I try using bass casting sinkers or bullet sinkers to get the bulk mass correct but typically on smaller baits. I prefer not to mess with melting pouring lead but have done so a few times. I have used heat shrink tubing with shot to weight in areas or use golf weighting tape (frequently) for adjustments. At times best to modify the harness to dip in areas you want to add weight lower or higher. Once you get one worked out becomes no problem.

I make a story board with finishing nails to make my internal harnesses for various molds. I do most of the weighting with sinkers and slide onto the wire and crimp where needed. Isn't too complicated once you figure it out. Mold the first bait with just the harness and figure your weighting on that bait. Can do some of the weight distribution also at this point also. It will get you a close first "fishable" prototype. Only trick is making sure you harness is straight and the mold made in a manner to have proper placement on of the harness. You will get some now and then that the harness moves some and the blank comes out bad in regards to weight placement. Easiest to chuck those. If your indexing pins for the line tie and hook hangers are sized properly so the harness slides on snug you will eliminate most of the issues with the harness shift.