Travis

Pick a style you like. I have always used Dels as they were no frills open pour reapers. I think any mold makers will be fine as long as they don't get too into trying to redesign the wheel. I have no idea if anyone makes a legit 3 inch reaper but it doesn't get much easier design to make/mold if you are so inclined.

I think many end up selling baits but not so much here. Trading is also always an option.

Pyrex measuring cup is what I typically have used. Vertical dipping is really not accurate I guess with how I do it as the cup is tilted slightly and as the plastic decreases the more you tilt. I found it quicker overall than horizontal dipping like Bonjon did. The only tricky part is having enough rods as it goes quick. I use an appropriate sized spike nail. Round the end on the grinding wheel. I then have a shelf with eggcrate mounted on the end in a fashion. I just tilt the cup at the needed angle dip/twist hang the spike by the head and keep going. Temperature .... hmmm... when the plastic is right for what I want to do. Never have used a thermometer. The temperature needed changes on what you are wanting to do. Thin walled gitzit tube you will want it hotter. I usually wanted slightly thicker walled tubes so either made sure I used fresh spikes (as they can get rather warm) or would go a little cooler.

For masters I usually stick with a spray on shellac. Dries very quick, one can build multiple coats and be done in 5 minutes and keep everything crisp. Epoxy in my opinion is not ideal for masters especially for anything with detail as their is some loss of crispness in your final mold. One can overemphasis the detail in the master to compensate but I just don't think it turns out as well. Also if you need to rework the master shellac is no issue and epoxy is a pain. I have also just skipped the seal coat and just use a mold release agent. You can rub you bait down with Johnson's Paste wax, let it dry and buff it off. Vaseline can be used but can create issues unless using RTV. Mann's MoldEase one I typically use when I need a mold release. Spray paint will also work fine and have used it frequently on non detailed baits. These all end up taking a little more prep time with detailed baits as you have to wipe out of crevices, etc..

I dip vertically and hang. If done properly you get drip free tubes at the head and a consistent walled tube. Soft plastic and tubes just don't go well together. The tubes wall are thin and soft plastic just collapses on itself or rips very easily. Harder plastics are usually better suited and still give a bait that still is soft in regards to depression but will maintain the tube shape. I think the last stuff I used was Calhoun's medium plastic and have used salt water formula plastics as well. I usually just adjust the entire jug to where I want it. Depending on how many tubes you are planning to make might be best to just use whatever you typically use and add hardner.

I agree Dale always strange what guys use to validate the information. I don't think it is an issue on this site or at least don't ever remember seeing anyone point out some ones reputation score, hey you don't have any work in the gallery, etc.... Other sites guys get down right angry about it and constantly point it out for those they have deemed breaking their code of internet forum etiquette. Sites know it is a popular feature why they include stuff like most likes in a day, most post counts today, daily top whatever, it just fills the need for some.

All it is is the number of liked posts. Complete bogus metric as some guys pretty much like every post another guy says becomes a buddy system. If you could see some peoples likes the majority would be made up from 2 or 3 other guys. I can like your post and your reputation jumped to 28. I unliked it and it drops to 27 (I went ahead and liked it to bump to 28). You will find some guys that find it very important along with post count and on some forums (the woodworking forum I frequent) you better have projects posted under your account as that is the only way they will accept your opinion.

I think you main issue is simply the paint is too thick. As you mentioned it isn't dry and based on the areas that pulled up and the horizontal line apparent thickness the heat setting likely just getting a skin to form. You would be better either letting it sit a day or use lighter coats. I don't think based on the appearance and it the mode of failure you have an issue with finger prints, layer incompatibility, etc...

Not that difficult to avoid. I just think that much of the thread had merit and wasn't about being pissed. Often the issue is that the thread is allowed to go off topic days in advance and doesn't get reeled. It is fine to lock a thread, heck they frequently end up being about some of the most informative once you get rid of all the irrelevant tough talk.

Delete the bickering remove the individuals from the site but leave important content of the thread. This is an issue and one that has not been addressed. To delete the thread is a disservice to the members of the site and does not serve in the best interest of members looking for guidance towards vendors or trying to figure out what is going wrong.

Forstner bit works very well especially if you keep them sharp. A quality brad point bit also will do very well. I have never had any issues with balsa tear out and a good sharp brad point bit. I can't emphasis using quality products it is night and day difference. You are saving money on not buying hard baits use some of that savings to invest in quality tools and you won't be disappointed. I have been very pleased with the Lee Valley Brad Point bits and cursed myself for all the big box store ones I bought prior. The same goes for Forstner bits. Famag and Colt have been two I have went to recently.

Part of fishing and agree with the above belief that if you aren't losing a lure here and there I question if you are really fishing. I don't remember the first homemade lure I lost to be honest and don't really lose to many lures as most can be retrieved with my plug knocker. I always fished to catch fish and the lures are disposable tools to do so. Many guys frankly are into making baits to admire and don't really fish. I have "fished" with guys that will have boxes of lures in the boat that will never use those and always will pull out some cheap soft plastics or generic cranks so they don't lose their collection . No big deal we all have different goals.

Never really watched how to videos on painting patterns. Just sort of paint the lure to look like I wanted it to look like. I had enough art classes during school and some creative ability so sort of seamed natural.

I think another aspect many don't take into account is most guys buying these 200$ plus baits are specialized anglers. Some guys will say 100 dollar reel and 100 rod is expensive. They won't spend more and they will end up with two dozen rod/reel set ups that cost on average 200 bucks... and only use 6 of them and will quickly let you know the guy that spends 400 on his 6 set ups he fishes all the time is a fool for parting with his money. A guy can easily have several thousands tied up cranks, traps, spinner baits, jigs, soft plastics, etc.. to fish and see that as not being excessive but yet the same money into specialized baits is ridiculous.

I don't see the price as being out of line to be honest. A 30 buck bait is about what anyone that makes a swim bait should be able to get. At 30 bucks most guys wouldn't be surprised if they chucked the bait in the trash after an outing or two of if they found a gem. Yes you can find lesser priced baits that are as good or better as high end ones...they key for most guys is that the high end bait performs as expected with very little deviation from bait to bait. Once a name gets associated with a bait you can buy in much greater confidence. Of course some guys will buy it just because of the price and it "validates" their angling prowess. The real key to baits is do they catch fish. No way to make a judgement on a bait unless you have fished them. I have bought a lot of hand made baits from guys over the years both hard and soft and can comfortably say I wished photos translated into a good bait.

I will have to take a pass. http://www.msn.com/en-us/video/downtime/fishermen-hurled-from-boat-traveling-55-mph/vi-AAlZAFC

I agree, my cold water hair jigs rarely use a fiber guard.

Traditionally salt was not added prior to the pour for these type lures the way I recall when first coming across them but then at that time soft plastics guys were making were the traditional western hand poured stuff. Clear colors, smooth blends, a very unique and different product to the "bubba" baits of southern bass fishing that most of us were accustomed to. Salt started to be added in some instances and by some guys but don't think it was normal. Salt in general wasn't used as much based on the Larew lawsuit from what it seams. Wasn't really until the senko came around that most got crazed with adding salt to everything.

Yes it is sprinkled on when still hot. The claims that many that I hand pour these style baits for are: the salt is exposed to the water and not encapsulated in the plastic making fish hold on longer. once dissolved the salt leaves and irregular base that creates greater water disturbance once dissolved cavities are left in the plastic that trap air and then during the retrieve bubbles are dislodged enhancing the appeal of the bait the bait has a more life like feel and the fish hold on longer the baits don't stick in the bag

I use 19 gauge from the local hardware or order from McMaster Carr (0.041 302/304 stainless down to .032 or so for smaller baits) for most all my bass baits. A lot of threads on this topic. In your address bar type tackleunderground, line tie, wire gauge, etc... and many will come up and you can add additional search criteria based on what you are wanting to do. (musky, thru wire, McMaster Carr, welding rod, wire benders, and countless other terms). I

Make your own. Can easily put it on a shaft and use a drill or arbor press with a cutting mat and get very good results. Buy blades that are designed with holes in them (I get mine from Ace). Buy small washers, some bolts and nuts, and and thread lock and good to go. First one I made many years ago testing the idea out. Use a little worm oil now and then and slices easily and cleaning and you get very repeatable tails. You can make a roller cutter also. Gets a little more expensive as you buy circular blades used by quilters. If you are patient you can get them for cheap. I bought a bunch of 10 packs for a few bucks each at Michaels one year. You can modify a small paint roller by cutting the end off. Slide the blades and spacer onto the shaft. You will need to thread the end and use a nut to secure it. Problem is usually not stiff enough and they flex. I prefer using a nut and bolt and a small box to hold it with the bolt as a center axle/roller.

Gallery can be found under the Browse menu .

http://billysmtolures.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Jig-Price-List-4-20-2013.pdf Sand and mudd flea.....

This statement almost always translates to poor scouting, drafting, and development and they have taken the first steps to correct that. Unfortunately this usually is a a sign of inadequacies at a higher level (York).

Lexan or circuit board should be fine. I have used both a lot of time on small cranks similar in size to those.