Travis

All good to say it is this way because this is the way the powers want it to be. Only way to validate the policy.

http://www.espn.com/nfl/story/_/id/18385313/coach-chip-kelly-gm-trent-baalke-dismissed-san-francisco-49ers

Good point Dale. Weight always helps with a lathe especially when turning larger material that are not balanced. Having the lathe firmly attached to the table helps along with weight in the table. I built my lathe stand a put a false bottom in it and filled it with sand. So most of the cavity behind the 2x6 base is filled. Makes a difference when you put a 12 inch blank that isn't perfectly round on it. Shouldn't be an issue with lures however.The lathe also has variable speed so I can dial it up until just starts show instability and quickly knock it down to round before cranking it up some more if needed. Some guys drape sand bags over the base of the stand if open metal stand or have seen piece of plywood put across the base of the stand and sand stacked, cinder blocks, etc.. for added weight.

Deja Vu..... Hey wasn't that 2015.... Young players, unproven coach, and draft picks. Even with the poor performance of the Rams still figure niners will continue to solidly hold on to 4th in the division. Hey I know around here you could find a lot of support to send Grigson your way. He has done wonders for the Colts. Growing up always liked the 49ers but never been a die hard fan for any specific team. Find some teams enjoyable to watch win and others enjoyable to watch lose. I find Kelly to be one of the biggest overrated blow hards there is so have been loving the 49ers this season.

Plenty of good books on turning and highly recommend looking at a few of them. Not for sure how much experience you have with turning but few basics to start out with. Always stand out of the line of fire when turning the lathe on. So off to the side when you turn it on. If variable speed start slower and then turn it up to proper speed. With spindle turning (lures fall into this category) you are looking at high RPMs. ABC Anchor the cutting tool to the tool rest. Bevel: rest the bevel onto the piece to be cut. Cut: bring the cutting edge into proper position With the typical "cigar" shaped baits turned on lathe you will start with a rectangular blank. You will rough the blank to round using typically a spindle roughing gouge. Once you get into turning and improve skills you can use a spindle gouge or skew also. Once round lay out generic length of lure with a pencil or parting tool. You want to turn and progress from high spots to low spots with your spindle gouge (easiest for beginners) but many eventually end up using the skew as easy to get very finish worthy lure without sanding. After you turn the lure shape (sand if needed) I would seal while still on the lathe. Shellac or super glue very easy to apply at lower speed and get a smooth coat that dries very quickly (use paper towels to apply). Paper towels are safer for a few reasons... one the easily tare so if somehow you get it wrapped onto the spindle won't drag you into the piece. Also superglue and cloth (cotton) and other natural materials can generate enough heat to ignite (plenty of videos out there if you want to check it out). Once sealed you can either use a parting tool to remove the lure or fine kerf saw to saw it off while on the late (turned off at first and with experience can saw with it turning). If ends left square you can remove the turned lure and drill holes for weight, eye recesses, etc.. easier then remove the ends. Sharpening a must learn skill. A slow grinding wheel and jigs (handmade or bought) will help get repeatable/sharp tools. If you have a Woodcraft near by they often have a learn to turn class that is kept small 3 to 4 guys and will cover all the basics and have you turn a few simple projects to boot. .

Lure turners definitely an area for guys to do a little DIY. i went the rotisserie grill router as didn't need any disassembly.

Yes exactly. Tackleunderground, testors, top coat or Tackleunderground, enamel paint, etc... various combinations. I know I have always been able to find more content that way. Now some sites do have good search features and some you need to go in and change settings to look in all threads, search all terms, search all posts, etc..

The search feature has never really been a use able function on this site and most sites I have used. Never understood why so many try using it. Maybe I just use it wrong but have always found a lot more using the browser window and typing in key words. Ben I found a lot of posts this afternoon when I say your request using this method. Even brings up other sites that reference TU in the post (texasfishingforum, crappie, bassresource, windycityfishing, fishin, all sites that have links back to TU about the subject).

Quality blades make a big difference and choosing the proper blade for the task at hand. Tooth form and tooth set can make a difference also but can be subjective and depending on the individual. I don't cut metals on my saw so choose blades specifically to perform well in wood. I mainly use Highland Woodworking general purpose blades and wood slicer blades as hard to beat for the price/performance. Have several Timberwolf blades also in the mix. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/manuals/rikon/bandsaw_blade_selection_guide.pdf http://timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php#Curve

Typically should not back out of curve cuts when running, short straight cuts generally viewed as safe. It just sounds like you band saw just needs a good once over and then just set up properly once you eliminate any issues.

If blade is jumping off the wheels you likely need to adjust the tracking. Center you're blade on the wheel and adjust the tension until blade it set to the proper tautness. Then turn the wheel by hand and watch what direction the blade moves in regards to the back of wheel or front of wheel. Turn the tracking knob counterclockwise and blade will move forward, turn knob clockwise and it will move backwards on the wheel (in regards to blade position on width of wheel). Ideally you want the gullet between the tooth blades to be center and blade riding on the ever so slight crown present on the wheel. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/american-woodworker-blog/tune-bandsaw Decent article on set up of the band saw and the following video about the best in regards to reference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU If the proper blade is selected for the task and set up correctly a band saw is a very useful tool in the shop.

We have stuff milled at work for our use, so yes it can be done. I have drilled, routed, tapped etc.. teflon in the past but don't have a CNC mill. Now lets go to the potential real issue. Working temperatures of lead are typically higher (200 -300 ° more) than decomposition temperatures of teflon and can result in some rather unpleasant side effects (aka: Teflon flu). While the temperatures will not be sustained for excessive times I wouldn't think it would hold up very long to repeated excursions outside its recommended temperature range of good quality teflon and depending on your source of Teflon could be looking at 100 degree lower maximum temp. Vespel or Kapton would likely be better options. May find out you can get away with using teflon but have to replace every so many casts and work in properly vented set up. May start off just pouring some lead onto the teflon and see what happens before vesting too much time into it.

Overall the site is coming together good. I think the current color layout leaves a lot to be desired but know that is subjective and may not be an issue as things get worked out. Seams to be a lot of basic website design misses but my knowledge on the issue is limited. Posts just seam to run together as no color gradient is used to differentiate responses. Also overall just too much white and "white space" I am blowing the site up to get rid of the right and left white margins as I find them way to large and makes the site overall not enjoyable to view as getting "afterimage" when going to other sites or look away from the computer. Will there be different skin options?

I use the band saw also for most of my lure work also (bass lures). I use the table saw a lot in my shop just not so much for lure making.

With regards to cutting joints several methods can work and all depends on the tools and your comfort level using them. As mentioned square stock is one of the easiest way to ensure easy bait lay out. Stock should be squared using a hand plane, jointer, planer, etc... or you can sand on flat surface. Not critical but if your faces aren't parallel and perpendicular to themselves you can see what will happen as you use these faces to reference layout, cut, drill holes, etc... Essentially the activity you are doing will be referenced to a particular face. You can also make jigs to do so but unless you have designs worked out and make sufficient numbers a lot of effort but some guys enjoy making jigs more so than the end product. As mentioned above table saw is a good option. Now few things needed to do this. First one should start off with the basics and proper tool set up. Anyone using a table saw should first and foremost do a basic set up. Miter slots should be parallel to the blade and you might as well do the fence to blade at the same time also (some like to so very slightly toe the fence away from the blade on the back of the fence). A miter gauge set up with a backer and stop blocks will handle the task accurately but a sled a better option. I would also suggest making a table saw cross cut sled as about the safest and most accurate/repeatable method . I have 4 sleds in my shop I use for various crosscutting applications. William Ng has about one of the most informative video builds and would be the one I would recommend following. Band saw is another option that very easy to do also. Square stock needed once again and understanding of how to set it up, blade selection, etc.. I use band saw mainly for cutting joints and either do it free hand or do have a jig that holds the square blank at the needed angles and do it that way (usually when doing a lot of baits). Your method is fine also but as you mentioned set up and tool selection becomes important. If the box is flexing I would ditch it and make your own. Square stock important again as when you place it into miter box you want that piece of would sitting flush 90 with the base and side wall. It should also not move so clamp it in place, double sided sticky tape, stop block, etc... will all work. I prefer Japanese pull saws over western style saws mostly nowadays as I have more control of the cut. You can also just free hand it. Piece needs to be square and a method to firmly hold the piece. With proper technique you can easily cut those angles with a good backsaw, dovetail saw, etc. Takes practice but once you get the proper form down very accurate, repeatable, and fast way. I find free hand sawing easier than a miter box. If you are having to sand for an hour definitely need to go back and rethink how to do it. With the proper set up you should be able to cut perfect slots in a lot of baits in a fraction of that sanding time. Your method is fine just need to work it out properly.

I figure most of us are far from what anyone would consider classy. Lathes are always fun to have around. I don't turn many lures as simply don't fish those styles too often (figure mainly topwaters). I loose top waters very rarely and don't fish devil horse, gilmore jumpers, etc.. styles all that often. In regards to lathes bigger swing also a plus (if you plan on turning bowls, platters, etc...) and more horse power the better. Variable speed nice thing to have but not essential, less so if only turning lures.

You are correct most all lights we use have a UV component being emitted and LED is no different. You can add filters to block most of it and there are some good options used in pharmaceutical and food industry to inhibit photo degradation (most commonly due to UV wavelengths of light) but not something for the hobby guy.

I just never have been impressed with it when compared to it wood counterparts. Especially if comparing shallow cranks. I also toyed around with some medium divers I fished bouncing off objects and the wood had a lead in regards to catches. Not huge amount of difference but enough to take note. May be differences do to me when I made them and the wood baits. I thought the same with most of my foamies I made. They caught fish and I still use some of them but just something just a little off (also foamies never felt like I was making anything just stamping widgets). I am sure others have different results. I only kept a log for that one year and only just under a 125 outings. Definitely try PVC it may be what you are looking for. I have some in my shop most of the time just doesn't get as much use.

I still seal PVC baits if going to mold. Wood masters will last a very long time. I know I have some way over 10 years old still doing well. I just wouldn't pay shipping for PVC as ends up being more expensive for a product that in my opinion isn't any better than wood and potentially less ideal in regards to a master based on the the PVC products I have used in the past. None the less it will work.

Could be but also check you "masters" . Senkos vary considerably in my experience with amount of detail and quality of the bait. I have molded some lures in the past the mold had ton of little pock marks. I chalked it up to me screwing up at first but then got to looking at the baits and they really were poor and just transferred over to the mold. Here are some from a mold I made until the smaller senko aluminum molds came available. No significant loss of detail.

Why not just use wood, seams like a lot of trouble and added expense for a master.

I would recommend PVC for a swim bait also (about the only time I will use it). It takes a lot of the the difficult issues out of the equation and will let you focus on the bait, not construction methods.

Isn't that Redgator's duplicator from a very very long time ago.

Only way to go in my book based on the money and results for the hobby lure maker.

I have never found the search function on this site to be effective and much better off typing in your key words along with tackle underground in the browser window.