Travis

Epoxy are called epoxies because they contain epoxide groups that either polymerize with other epoxide groups within the epoxide or polymerize and react with the hardner. When super glue is discussed on this site, in regards to sealing balsa and line ties, everyone means the cyanoacrylate product that reacts with moisture to cure. It is used generically to describe the product sort of like how many ask for a kleenex when they want a tissue. Different beast than an epoxy and different reaction occurring. Super Glue is also the company and they also make epoxies but I believe they are all two part based. http://www.supergluecorp.com/?q=original-super-glue/super-glue

Torque is directly proportional to shear. Epoxies test higher at increased shear forces (various forms) than cyanoacrylate glues.

Funny thing all these products are vigorously tested in laboratory settings to generate all the data we so frequently fret about.... epoxy wins. Now either are fine as you mentioned for our application.

I used one a few times and absolutely hated it for the switching and found myself grabbing hand tools at times instead. It is great for guys with limited space and very popular with the snowbirds in Arizona. Last month I almost had one however. A guy down the street had one sitting in his garage near the door on Thursday and I figured he was going to put it out on the curb. Following morning nothing there when dropping the kids off, thirty minutes later on my way back a guy a few doors down from me was loading it up from the curb into his truck. I was going to set it up to use as a drum sander.

Helps out a lot. I have several I made on my lathe. Just put a few different coves on some hard wood spindles then use Velco backing on the cove contour and then lay strips of hook and look sandpaper. I can knockout a lot of lures fast. I rough the blank with my carving knife for basswood lures and then sand. Balsa can take direct and eat it away in seconds.

You can make a series of reference templates to slide over and match. I use a profile gauge at times also.

I don't think anyone will say color doesn't matter but think the more I fished the less importance I put on it. Most novice anglers color is the first thing they worry about. Why? It is the only variable they really have control of. When I first really started to fish 25 plus years ago, I didn't know anything about fish movements, what attracted fish, what baits effectively fish where I though fish should be, how to really present those lures, etc... but boy could I switch out colors or take a boat ride to a million places. Guys grow up fishing asking what color you catching them and just sort of gets molded into folk lore regarding the importance. Yes there are some differences in physiology between our eyes and fish and even differences between fish species to see/distinguish color. Yes we don't know exactly what fish see but plenty of research has been done to give some very sound data on the issue. We have to discuss these topics in regards to what we know scientifically as really only way to do so. Anything else is sort of saying it is because you say it is (may be right out of coincidence but usually not the case). The important thing one really has to accept is some simple facts related to this subject that trump all else: 1) In order for something to be a given color it reflects that wavelength of light. 2) Wavelengths of light travels a given distance in water (Beers-Lambert law? been too long since reservoir ecology) based on absorption and scattering of light in water. Using red as our example: a red wavelength of light is absorbed higher in the water column due to wave chop, turbidity, etc.. Red wavelength can make it to around twenty five feet in the clear waters of Lake Michigan on a calm sunny day, no algae blooms, etc... and around 5 ft in your typical southern reservoir. At depths passed these you can not have red as the color (an exception coming later). It may be a different dark hue, it may look different because of UV light, etc but it can not be red due to it reflecting that wavelength of light as it has been filtered out at that depth. UV brings up the exception: fluorescence. If the bait has the right components that are actively excited by UV wavelengths and some other shorter wavelengths (less extent) it may fluoresce red. However fluorescing red works completely different that what this thread has been about and not common. On top of this debate whether fish such as bass has capability of detecting UV light as disagreement to the physiology of their eye of if they have another rudimentary form of detection. Scientists vary on the opinion especially if working for one bait company or the other. Take any information from these sources as subject to being skewed towards the source that writes the check. At one time red line was the rage as it "disappeared" in the water and was undetectable. Then not too many years later red trebles were a must as it worked fish into a frenzy and they leaped into your boat. Both were backed by lure makers experts in the fields. I am sure in the long run we will get closer to knowing how a certain fish species eye is capable of detecting and how it is processed. Currently most base color on what they see and directly relate it to the fish as that is how most process things. I think that is one of the things that makes it an interesting topic.

How did you determine the fish perceive it as olive?

Yes it can matter but not near the extent to which most anglers worry about it. Really the last part of the equation in my fishing.

It just don't see it as a viable business in my opinion for many reasons: Customer base, the product, and price point being the main ones but several others. I guess I can't see trying to fix disposable, cheaply made products for local residents that don't intend to spend money in the first place as a good business model.

Shipping to and back on a 20 dollar reel plus parts and labor.....don't see many customers. Also most people looking for reel repair aren't 20 dollar reel types.

I agree go the microwave route and pyrex. Really cheap overall.

Can use a hot plate or infrared heat lamps also. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/16617-another-way-to-heat-plastic/

KBS has several locations in Chicago you should be able to buy at. Several others not too far of drive if you have to head to Gary or Valpo.

Never had issues in the past. Never had any fear of not getting money back via pay pal or the credit card deals with it promptly when it comes to online purchases.

I leave head phones plugged in or hit mute.

While some crossover between demographics REI and Bass Pro Shops/Cabela's I don't see them being much of a competitor. They are very different consumer base and one that typically is completely opposed to hunting and fishing. A REI customer more likely to be looking to buy some gear to pack into the Subaru for the weekend trip to Joshua Tree for some bonding over a few craft beers while discussing how we need to be much more progressive in this country. Most I know that are Cabelas/BPS customers would not shop at REI based on principal as they are typically viewed as anti gun, anti hunting, and anti fishing.

If just having to pick one weight then 1/2 ounce would be what I would take. Just want to get rid of the drag/lift associated with the blades/current. Typically I end up looking for the eddies behind the larger rocks, lay downs, or anything that will create that slack water area so really just wanting to get the bait down out of the swifter water and slow down in those eddies. Fished a lot of buzzbaits also but usually in slower flowing rivers/creeks and trailer hooks always a big plus from my experiences.

I fish smaller creeks and rivers for smallies also and fished for spotted bass in similar waters for many years. Have several smallie creek specialists in the region that catch some very solid fish from these small waters and over the past 10 years or so techniques have been tweaked to produce big fish in fair numbers. Deep water was 7 feet typically with most fishing shallower. These are very small bodies of water however and you cover a lot of water. I don't use inline's too often as they get hung up a lot in the areas I fish and overall tend to catch a lot of 10 and 12 inch fish. Larger rooster tails and mepps mainly and tried some of the larger ones like Hildebrandt Sally stuff. I like double willow leaf offerings 3/8 to 1/2 ounce on a smaller spinner bait frame and hidden head. Also prefer a twist wire over R bend as these baits get smashed by the smallies/spots and have more issues with the braid slipping up the r bend. Pure run and gun covering water looking for 18 to 20 inch smallies. Chatterbaits work well also at times but think traditional spinner baits end up outperforming typically. Fairly close to what style for spinner baits I use: http://www.spotsticker.com/shop/mini-me-chartreuse-billet-spinnerbait/ Winter can be a very good time for shallow river smallie fishing can be dynamite with a floating fly. Five feet may be deep on some of the creeks I hit and you can find those pools (break the ice at times) and pluck some hefty smallies out with a float and fly.

I end up buying stuff from Cabela's but only because of my Cabela's Visa. So use the points to buy stuff and usually when they run it on sale clearance. Also get boots, jackets, etc.. as hard to beat the price/quality even more so when on sale. Typically buy in 100 buck increments to use the save 20 on your next 100 purchase coupon I get about every 2 months.. My Cabela's Gortex rain jacket was 39 bucks, 99 bucks for the 10 inch Gortex leather insulated boots, etc... Several of the Cabelas clothes I bought have also been overall good buys. Definitely neither are places I would go into and buy something because I needed it then but don't get into that situation often. I buy when price is right sort of stuff. Have a Cabelas about 1 hr from me and never have been..BPS 1.5 hrs and been once as we stayed the night near it.

Doesn't effect tackle making in any way. BPS just increased market share but don't think anything will shut down. Don't see it effecting anything to be honest seams most are either BPS or Cabela's people. They really sort of attract different people on different levels. Cabela's is really entrenched in different area and will continue to be so. Always thought of Bass Pro Shop as the "Southern sportsman" store and Cabela's as the "Northern sportsman" store. Bass Pro Shops= bass/catfish/panfish, white tail/turkey/etc, and water sports. Cabelas= walleye/muskie, mule deer/ bear/ moose/pheasant, and ice/water activities. Line of intermingled area with both stores but BPS isn't appealing as you move North and Cabela's isn't appealing as you move South (generalization). Look at the demographics they target. Say a Nascar/Duck Dynasty fan where are they more likely to shop? Prior they both carved out a very specific customer base. They will retain the same but the money just goes to one source now. They will keep them as separate as possible until market changes enough due to bigger changes (less anglers/hunters or other competition).

Looking good. Scrolled through some of your pics and noted some nice reference photos of trout.

Hey guys test and build baits however is needed. I agree many ways to do it. As long as you are enjoying building and fishing them great. I do not know if my baits can support even 100 lbs static let alone 200 lbs. In my situation and targeted species I will see my line fail, knot break, rod tip will snap, split rings open, jaw of the fish dislocate/tissue fail, etc prior to reaching this.

Some guys use procedures that really only are satisfying a whim. It serves no practical application purpose as it doesn't really address a problem or issue in the first place. There is absolute no real world fishing situation (they encounter) that could ever warrant some of the lengths guys go through. I have baits that are years old and have caught hundreds of fish. The bait performs as intended. I can take that bait today and stomp on it and destroy it. I could hang weights onto the rear hanger until it failed, etc... the issue is none of these test me hooking a fish and reeling it in so what are we really accomplishing by doing these sort of testing procedures? Nothing but satisfying a false understanding of what is needed in a bait.

You guys are dead on with buying quality products as the cost spent doing it right ends up being a fraction compared to the time trying to find a work around. Too many guys try saving a penny to later spend a dollar.