Travis

I still throw throw them without hesitation and in some instance my go to. While they were riddled with issue dependent upon when you got them I wouldn't give up on a good bait.

Balsa is tricky to turn on a lathe. Your best bet is to glue blocks to mount the balsa between centers. Trying to use the typical head/tail centers on balsa is troublesome. You also need really sharp tools. Easier to shape with 80 grit sandpaper then finish with higher.

Dead on Ben. Amazing all the issues they had but at the same time you had some very good baits that really brought structure cranking to popularity. I would still take them over a lot of the cranks today however.

Fished many Poes? You guys made me crack a smile when mentioning lips falling out, the yellow concern, and waterproofing as well all are essentially characteristics of Poes (ok some years/decades). Heck thank Poes deep divers for a lot of what we do with lure customization. I think most that fished these baits carried superglue, fingernail polish, and 5 minute epoxy in the boat for on the water repairs. I would have no issues with Devcon 5 minute. Poe's are notorious for yellowing topcoats and very poorly sealed baits based on their construction. The topcoats spiderweb, crack, and fail frequently. Typically the lips are much more prone to fall out of the "newer" mid 90's stuff (Mexico) and I can't say about anything since that time period. The late 80's Poes not near the issue from my experiences but my stash has slowly dwindled over the years (probably had just over 100 at one point). Yellowing topcoats were very common and some might of even left them out in the sun to fade colors and get a lovely yellow hued clear coat (maybe even some pesky crankers from Lexington, NC). Guess what baits are the same color? Very typical of mid 90's stuff. Lips can be removed by hand usually with little effort and the large crack running on belly and the small fractures (more difficult to see) near the lip and pretty much across the front half of the bait. Several here likely spent a lot of time modifying and repairing these baits at one point.

Maybe a typo. However 5 minute still used to glue things like line ties, hook hangers, fibbets for fins, lips, through wire construction.....

In a pinch Stampendous brand glitters have always performed with no issues for me going on over a dozen years now. Sizes are limited (fine, extra fine, and medium) but they have a wide array of glitters and also some mica powders that can give some interesting results. Found several online sources in AUS that carry it. Cost is more expensive per amount however and in the long run buying larger quantities from soft plastic lure suppliers better option.

I don't believe there are any common knock offs being sold that are currently protected by a patent but could be wrong. I wouldn't think most would knowingly do so due to the very ramifications discussed earlier. Outside of Megabass (only a few of their lures) not for sure if many companies are patenting hard baits at this time as I figure the cost in doing so simply isn't worth it and will take some creativity. Square bills date bake to the late 70's (Fred Young) and during that time were all hand made baits coming from TN, KY, and Arkansas areas (in general). We should be able to discuss topics without a need to personally attack anyone or make claims of what a person believes or doesn't believe. I never have liked or disliked a person based off as something as silly as painting a bait, making a bait, etc.... is a ridiculous metric to use and definitely not something any sane person would use to determine if a person should ever exist or not. Everyone belongs here, doesn't matter about skill set abilities or what they do in regards to making baits or even if they make a bait. I agree that several that paint are artists as an individual can paint or one can't, what the "canvas" isn't relative. To truly hate something it just takes too much effort in this short life we have.

Yes patented things will get knocked off and the sun will rise..... My point is simply what having a patent will allow them to do legally. What it can do is stop guys from selling patented knock off baits blanks and then those repainting and selling patented knock offs. Cease and desist letters sure those easy enough to deal with as the individual stops their action. The next step is the big one as it will allow them, if they see fit, to go after guys for damages. Interesting reading.... http://www.ncpc.org/topics/intellectual-property-theft/fake-consumer-goods-1

I don't recall the exact brand I have for doing that sort of stuff but it is hollow mylar woven tubing used in fly tying. That is the holographic but you can get other colors also. They may have used something different. Search Cami's posts and he gives a little more detail.

Based on the lighter color schemes it looks like their is a metal insert in the line tie area but the rest of the dorsal fin is plastic. It could be the changed build design while making it. http://voblery.com.ua/en/catalog/diver-vibe.html G11 and G12 specifically

Going to depend on the mold material but I used to easily mold/demold 9 baits in that time. Also those had the line, hook, and internal weighting all done at the same time along with details and eye sockets also molded in. I consider myself fair with the knife and tools (bandsaw, jointer, drill press, etc...) and can comfortably say I wouldn't even come close to trying to match the production in the same time and in no way would be as consistent. Add actual details to the bait and it gets even worse.

Going to be a tough one without a bait or two in your hands. The snap/line attachment appears to be metal (inset in the plastic body/dorsal fin on photos of clearer baits). You could try just putting multiple line ties at the correct locations but I would rather have them molded into a bait. I never have fished one so not for sure by weighting but if similar to other style baits it seams packed near nose of bait or along center line right in front of middle hook. Getting the side profile no issue at all based on photos but contour of body going to be a little more difficult without a bait if you go carving a master. If I were really set on getting them I would want one or better yet two in hand. Making a mold with similar style line attachment and weighting. One bait would be lost in the process as it would be dissected. Even after all this may take some time to get it dialed in. Going to have to just reverse engineer the bait and still may end up with something very close but not like the original.

Jig man nailed it. Thin continuous streams with controlled actions will have you pouring open cavity molds in no time with no over pours. Once you get it down it really is easy. It just comes down to practice. There will be some molds that you can get away with filling an area and letting it flood into other areas but not a technique that can be used on all molds and also works better as the mold warms some. Warming a mold isn't needed in my opinion and usually for open pours ends up being trying to make up for a short coming on the users technique/ability with pouring.

Not trying to patent a crank bait..... patenting a "unique,novel, blah, blah, blah" design or feature causes that crank bait to perform is the ticket. Soft plastics have been figuring that out. Historically has not been worth the effort to patent but things may be changing in some companies eyes. Will have to see if we start to see more patented designs...

I am surprised more crank baits aren't patented to reduce knock offs. Especially the high end stuff.

I enjoy seeing the antique folk art lures but don't come across them too often. Do find some modern day folk stuff also enjoyable but hard to find based on what I see as folk art. What I enjoy about them they were created by individuals based on what they had available and more important based on their "knowledge base" and skill set. Some are innovative others are comedic due to the ignorance behind them. Folk art was always an interesting subject in the art classes. Folk art in general was naive and primitive due to the individual that was doing it, the appeal had much to do with the complete lack of not knowing any better, no training, and no resources but still creating. It was very much about the individual that made the lure. I think Fishing Lure Collectibles book had a nice section on folk lures that was really enjoyable to look at. I have the book stuffed somewhere and need to dig it back out. I have one lure that may or may not be folk art (likely not) but never found information about it. It looks like a mouse replica. Looks to be coated with some sort of thick paint/glue. Eyes are painted on the legs and ears are not symmetrical and look like just additional glue paint was dabbed on that spot to make it higher. The back is busted and the lure is hollow and almost looks as if a peanut shell was used to make the lure but probably way off. I found it in a bottom of junk at an antique store and paid a buck for it.

I am surprised this doesn't become mainstream with the number of people selling knock offs.

I would not use the Vaseline based on my experiences with foamies and then all the soft plastic molds I have made. Vaseline is also frequently used by some to help remove dried road paint from vehicles, finger nail polish, paint off of leather, spray paint off hands, etc... (all with varying degrees of success). Forget the time/trouble to clean it up..... the likely failure of your clear coat/paint at the joint in the end is the big issue. Just trying to remove the Vaseline will damage your paint job some paints better than others. as is, now add a solvent (as only way you will remove the petroleum based product) and gets even worse. Likely you will leave a residue when you are all done and applying a clear coat that can't bond in these areas only leads to one thing. If this isn't a wood bait then wouldn't be as worried as the failure wont hurt the bait.

Putting scales on foiled baits has had a few posts over the years. I typically use a light spray of 3M adhesive and then put tule on the bait then foil over it. You can also use a file and press the foil onto a file or roll a ratchet handle to get the scale effect. Can also press the scale design in the bait easily in softer lures.

I would start out with defining business and what that really means to you. A lot guys have businesses....translation hobby that looses money. Sit down and really look at your costs, time, etc... Once you do this (be as honest with yourself as possible) order product that best fits your intended market and expand from there to meet your needs. You may find that in reality you are just offsetting the cost of your hobby by a given percentage and that is fine. Buy molds and colors that you will use in that case.

Grizzly still popular for many. They have some tools that are just home runs considering the price/quality. Add their customer service is very good to outstanding by most accounts as they are very easy to deal with, get parts, replacements, etc.... Where as most other companies out of luck.

Your best bet is to go with aluminum foil tape. Slap the tape on then burnish it well and the seams will disappear. You can do some minor polishing afterwards if needed. Several posts on its use over the years. Most all paints, readily available, will turn a lovely dull silver color once top coated.

Son!!!!!! That would be the Helicopter lure. Roland Martin's info commercial bait from the late 80's early 90's. It was rigged texposed and used a swivel. They were mainly dragged and buzzed along the top then you killed it and it would "helicopter" down. Nail weights were also included in the kit.

Google Lisa and Ed's eyes and it will pop right up.... http://lisaandedseyes.ipage.com/

I don't even bother linking the stuff anymore. If guys really searched the site they would be very surprised about what guys have been doing for a very long time.