Travis

Simply... Majority with unique lures they are seeking to patent have nothing unique. Any claims they have are bogus and will easily be dispelled. Unless you break into the tournament scene with the lure you will make little to no money. Other option is take up large adds in magazines about you lure being banned in tournaments and make money off that crowd of believers. You need to have the patent drawn up by a legit patent lawyer that will be honest with you about your creation. So many patents are complete junk. If you have a legit lure, that is the next big thing and a sound patent you will now need to have some money or a backer to pursue litigation threats and work out deals with bigger players. Finally the taxes/government ......you both are wrong.

Weight is definitely your friend but can be a troublesome for some depending up on shop set up. I had to be portable for my smaller shop I ended up filling a false bottom of my stand with sand. Sharp tools make all the difference and a solid grinder becomes as really nice asset teamed up with some Norton wheels (cheap and effective). Now if one likes the carbide cutters no sharpening needed but very much different technique is needed. I also use a full face mask as eventually something will essentially disintegrate if you turn enough. I have made a few flat sided lures on the lathe but start with flat sided stock. As long as you don't get too aggressive no issues. Several good turning books also available. Getting Started in Wood Turning (American Association of Woodturners book) isn't too bad. Most of the other easy ones to find aren't bad either just not as in depth.

I have owned two lathes and have used several other "midi" lathes. While you don't have to drop a lot of money starting out I will tell you in my opinion a lot of difference when it comes to overall user experience and nothing worse than dropping a few hundred on junk to find out you like turning. If you have a Woodcraft near I would recommend taking the "Learn to Turn" and a few other classes first to get familiar with things. Depending on the instructor they can be very helpful in. Mine was pretty quick to point out to recommend what to get and not to get (and was quite the opposite of a sales pitch for Woodcraft). I used Rikon and Jet lathes in those classes and a few different models. I have also used Grizzly, HF, Craftsman (pen lathe), and Delta. The Craftsman (I own) is a toy and isn't a fair comparison with the others. I did not like using the HF but would take it over the Craftsman any day to the increased power and swing. The Grizzly was very similar to the HF (many very similar knock offs just difference in quality control and specs of parts). The Grizzly lathe was smoother and less issues but not by much. The two Grizzly lathes I used just felt more "solid" than the HF in operation the tailstock live centers (cheap enough) seamed to be better than those I have used on various HF lathes but may not be indicative. I liked the Rikon and Jet both equally well and are in my opinion steps above both the HF and lower end Grizzly, but of course cost more. I ended up with a Delta 46-460 as I just liked it better and was cheaper than the Jet I was looking at. For tools I started cheap as you will need to learn to sharpen and much rather eat up a Benjamin's Best (best value winner frequently) learning than higher end offerings. I will be replacing these with better quality stuff as I go. Currently I just end up sharpening more. I have not been keen on the carbide cutters but that was limited to a few hours of use. I ended up buying one thinking hey maybe if I used it more...it collects a lot of dust. I still would try another one just to make sure. Definitely have a budget as it can get pricey quickly. You still need to sharpen, turning tools, live centers, chuck if you want to do other stuff, etc... it adds up. You should be able to find the HF lathe for 50 bucks on Craigslist rather easily. Often come across very good lathes with various centers, chucks, rests, turning tools, etc.. for not a bad price either that will come in a good deal overall. Shop vac and dust deputy (or similar) set up is very nice to have to collect fines and shavings. Doesn't take too long to build up a pile of shavings when turning. You may also want to look at wood turning clubs in your area. These clubs often will have get together's and let you come to an event for free to see if you like it. They are usually very desperate for guys (especially for non baby boomers) to pass skill sets along to.

Glad you got it worked out. I wouldn't be happy about having to hold the injector for 10 seconds each however. Injectors should make things easier and faster (than hand pouring) if not no sense on using them (barring physical issues with shakes).

Close...it would be slower than hand pouring!!!!! Injectors popularity were for the ease of use, speed, and allowing anyone to make baits. Now we are taking one of the simplest molds to hand pour ( basically created the modern day popularity of making your own baits) and the "fixes" have managed to increased the time to make the baits, reduced the number of cavities, cutting vents in a straight stick that has no difficulties in filling in any way.... Shooting cooler the way to go.

Could it be anglers have a tendency to put more emphasis on color than they should?

This like so many topics is one that most already have their minds made up. I would raise any concerns/questions with your local city/township and other agencies if applicable to the watershed in question. It is necessary on many bodies of water for various reasons. Some waters are managed for shore angling so vegetation is killed in order to support the shore angler. I have a local city pond they sprayed a few times so kids can catch stunted gills all day long. Before they started killing it off I could pick up a dozen or more 2 lb to 2.5 lb bass in that area but the average recreational angler caught nothing as they spent all the time hung up in weeds. While I found the dense growth great with the my polarized glasses and flipping soft plastics to fish I could see the bulk of people were using wally world poles and bobbers and had a very different take on the city pond their tax dollars also pay for. Proper vegetation control by knowledgeable individuals will be done in a manner that minimized risks to the fishery. Spraying isn't done during spawning in some areas unless the lake management plan is aimed towards other species and not bass. To be honest if vegetation control is needed that usually means a much larger issue is at play with too much nitrogen and phosphates getting into the lake especially those waters with lake front property. Spraying may be done based on home owner associations and lake front property owners or to keep water ways open for recreational boaters, skiers, etc... After vegetation gets to a certain percent coverage level bass success rates in regard to prey capture significantly diminish. You actually end up hurting the fishery. Other things to take into consideration is if the lake had very good year classes prior not much concern regarding reduced spawning success for current year and they may jump at getting control of areas that have issues early. Unfortunately we also have invasive aquatic vegetation that gets into watersheds it shouldn't be in. Drastic measures early are often needed to avoid much greater problems later. Often on freshly killed vegetation it makes fishing easier as all those bass end up stacking up on the closest hard cover. Docks, piers, rock piles, etc.... Eventually they make way to other grassy areas so numbers increase in those areas and can be very hot areas to fish. If major vegetation loss in many areas and lack of hard structure often will need to tweak ones approach and work at fishing suspended schools in deep water.

Wall thickness can play a role and is one of the reason good designs and control of manufacturing specks is important. The material construction/purity profile of the polymer (as it decreases the glass transition temperature) and thus affects heat deflection. "Bad" batches due to plastisizer issues also can compound the issue. The important thing to realize is the only control we have against this issue is to keep baits stored properly.

http://vet.tufts.edu/wildlife-medicine-program/research-2/loon-health-and-mortality/ Tufts was the University that did the findings for NH. Another paper... https://www.peregrinefund.org/subsites/conference-lead/PDF/0116%20Pokras.pdf Follow their references if you want more information.

Very interesting topic and one that has a lot of information behind. Several answers are hitting on some of the issues. Your question falls into the material science end. A few topics that are pertinent if you really want to get to the reasons are understanding glass transition temperatures of polymers, coefficient of thermal expansion, heat deflection temperatures, creep, and then chuck in refresher or pressure, temperature, volume. Design also ends up playing an important role in controlling or reducing the effects that are related to these topics. Take home message don't leave cranks in direct sunlight. Controlled environment? Companies have a long history of using China manufacturing for their rigorous standards and.....no it isn't controlled they can make them for a penny a piece.

With a little work can be molded successfully also. Have to do some venting in some places but wasn't too difficult and that was hand pouring. During the Javallon craze couldn't seam to get them quick enough in the states. I think they were pushing 30 to 50 bucks (color dependent) to get the pack of three from Japan and waited something like a month.... Need to vent at the tail tips and at the last segment for sure. The others filled with out issue on my molds. I also always use a forstner bit to create a "reservoir" for plastic to be drawn in.

Most of the designs will be throw backs to old lures, if we are talking bass. These lure designs aren't used that often anymore and are more nostalgic in nature and not really sought after for use. They catch fish but simply if they worked as well as some remember wouldn't we still be using them. I have made a few spooks and devil horse type for some guys but don't turn too many lures for my own use. Search vintage bass lures and you see many are lathe based mainly because of tooling available at the time. oreno, lucky 13, vamp, various creek chub, etc..... all sorts of other strange turned baits with the usual plethora of trebles and propellers. The more the better it would seam on some lures. A lot of turned bodies with metal lip attached or metal collar, etc... Many are very impressive to look at and some will just make you laugh. http://www.fieldandstream.com/photos/gallery/fishing/bass-fishing/2010/02/30-superlative-antique-fishing-lures-collector-rob-pavey http://www.tacklecollecting.com/

You just need to practice. Learn to mix and layer paint and it will go a long way in your painting. This is what really separates guys when it comes to painting or soft plastic lures. Search the net for color theory and you will find all the information you need to know and it will make you a much better painter.

Most all my masters come from wood also. I just prefer using it and can sit for a very long time without any worries. I have used bondo as mentioned above but durhams rock puddy mixed is usually my go to for making changes if needed. Can see the patched or built up areas in the master below.

Still do but overall they are typically simplified lures to make (well I guess some of the styles). What are you looking to do?

Typo in his post... correct name in the title but didn't specify which of their worms (only two come in that length ).

I have around 30 plus years combined in pouring and wet bench chemistry work (5 days in the lab heating solutions, chilling solutions, solids etc...) so feel my experience overall likely dwarfs most in regards to glassware and thermal shock. I have had Pyrex cups break with plastics and in the lab and borosilicate glass also (just less likely do to the smaller coefficient of expansion). I have little fear or worry of "explosion" and further the risk of injury from the "explosion" even less of a concern. Yes it can happen and precautions should be made and avoidance of some situations that increase the odds of failure do to thermal shock. The last few cups I replaced were with borosilicate and still better options available if one is really worried. I also use long sleeves and pants most of the time and gloves with the injector. I don't think the risk should be scoffed at but we shouldn't take it to the point of hysteria. Many more people a day use Pyrex in the microwave at home, in the oven, etc... and have it explode but as of yet hasn't caused any sort of safety recall due to injuries. Bottom line as of now it really isn't a common injury. If we all posted are pictures I think we would see that many are very comfortable with the high risks of being obese, smoking, etc.... even though the risks associated with these factor far outweigh in severity and occurrence injuries from an exploding pyrex cup.

If you are marking dead center then the issue has to be just not getting the blank secured and centered. Good lighting will help make sure you are hitting the mark. I would also make sure your forstner bit is sharp as it is important for it to be cutting good. If you are having to apply pressure with the press you may cause the blank to deflect slightly. Never had it happen on a crank but have on similar thickness stock at times. If the vise jaws don't support the crank vertically can help to make wood cauls that are tall enough. Add some recessed magnets on the backside and they will stay put on your jaws.

Take a look at Lincoya's tutorial.... http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/23195-making-your-own-aluminum-mold-for-pouring-belly-weights/

Niche market with no real competition....equates to you deal with it.

Pictures of the mold would be nice and more description on what exactly you are wanting to do. I wouldn't have any reservations about doing it especially on something that isn't aluminum. Dremel likely fine with the correct bit make some test passes on the back side of the mold to see if issues with chipping, melting, and overall just getting a feel for the material if you are concerned. If it is a one sided mold and you are wanting to say make a straight jerk into a fluke tail no problems, increasing the size of a paddle tail no problems, etc..... Worst case scenario you screw the mold up and chuck it... guarantee that amounts to pennies in the grand scheme of things when looking at money lost in regards to the average hobby lure maker.

Over complicating things.....just use left over soft plastic.....easy, sets up quick and will give you a very forgiving master to mold. I have used this method to cast molds in plaster of paris, RTV, and Durham's rock puddy. You can have a dozen molds not problems the following morning if you have enough scrap plastic.

http://www.calhounplastics.com/Contact.html

Just depends on how you set it up. At the time I didn't have a lathe so bought wooden spools (thread) or dowels. I drilled a holes in the dowel sections and then took a small triangle file and made the holes square. I slide the spools down the shaft of the rotisserie and then use a set screw to secure it. I have a series of holes drilled in the spools and wooden dowels with alligator clips on the end. Never had one slide out after more than 10 years. I glue them in most of the time now just to be safe.

Not for sure exclusive can ever apply to counter fitting......exclusive as in not the original molds being used by the legit company and not the same mold that will be used by the next guy needing knock offs waves some bills with the same company?