Travis

I have read a lot of discussion on this topic on wood forums from guys that make small wooden puzzles, beads, etc..... seams to be very poor results as far as what I would consider a sanded finish. Seams relief of sharp edges and giving an overall "softening" to get a worn/distressed look is great but it isn't an effective method for any sort of decent sanding. Nut shells, garnet, strips of sandpaper, plastic beads, abrasion blocks, and other items utilized in tumblers, some try using shakers, and plenty of examples of loading up pieces with 1 inch pieces of sandpaper and doubling up in thick pillow cases and chucking in a dryer. Another issue is lip slots would likely need cutting last along with any ballast holes.

Welcome back, good to see some older names. Was there no way to use your past account?

Stick as suggested above. I think most of them are fine if weighted corrected. There have been a few I that to me weren't as good but they had proportions incorrect in regards to circumference and length. .Even when not it might not matter to some guys depending on what they are wanting in the bait. I have Del's stick molds because frankly at the time no one came close to making a mold near as good. I would have no issues with the Do it mold however and it is correct.

Its a cigar shape slab of plastic....... do it or dels for best look alike. As far as how they preform I have used about every one out there and it becomes much more about the guy pouring, injecting the bait. Many of the ones I have purchased to test out don't have the same action as the senko because of the way they were poured and weight distribution. I know it was done that way because it fishes better. I have ordered plenty from guys that had plastic way to hot and they were largely tail weighted. I use Del's stick molds when I pour.

Might have been Hazmail. But not for sure if we are talking about the same thing in "moon" lip. What I am thinking about are round front deeply concave lips and if so then yes several have used them for some time. Some will relieve the back so water can pass through the lip near the junction with front of the crank and just insert two tabs (sides) into the body. These lips in general are not exactly traditional when it comes to cranks made here in the states. Most "soft plastic" cranks have used an internal form to hold ballast, hook hangers, and give the lure rigidity. Something like Possum Lures (not a good crank but was floating around probably 15 or more years ago) or charlie swim bait and I guess Dances Eel being the first one I think I ever fished. Others have used some internal harness system with an attachment (rigid) for the lip.

I have caught a lot of crappie on 7.5 inch worms, jig and pigs, etc... basically anytime flipping/pitching brush piles with depth to them. Not a everyday thing but numerous times during the year.

PPG auto clears were popular with many at one time. Not for sure if this is still the case.

I am with Vodka I would hate to have to poke little blockages out but if you are ok with it all good. I have had it work on some molds and not fill just leave a very small nib. So small not enough to even cut.

Yes they are solvent based. Respirator and ventilation will be needed.

Maybe it was lost in translation but you guys are wanting a solvent based system? Seams like just ordering the readily available lacquer paints would be easier.

I have always just "dipped" from the cup. I just tilt the cup as needed and could (not for sure if still can as don't do it near as often) dip out a 4 oz cup of plastic off one heating.

Bread loaf pan with wood handle attached, heat plastic and dump into pan. Keep plastic hot on griddle. Your dipping rods are L shaped some ended up using two that were then attached to handle and dipped two at a time (did see a three version also). The dipping rods were usually 1/4 aluminum but any metal works. Clothes hanger was used or similar wire and inserted in the rod and JB welded into place. After dipping you hang them vertical until cool, slide them off, cut to length and cut tails. Various ways to build your holder. I am not for sure if it evolved from that as I didn't pay much attention to it after trying it.

I dipped some horizontal just didn't see it as being any easier or better than vertical so have stuck to vertical. As far as it being secret or guys not wanting to share it, I don't think that is the case. It isn't exactly tricky.

Google does a good job of translating the page, well enough easy to follow. I use the Google Translate app.

CAB usually refers to Cellulose Acetate Butyrate http://www.cabcoatings.fi/

I would assume Dwain is doing airbrushing it. I don't think he actively logs into the site anymore so figure there will be no response. I don't recall him posting painting methods but can search his old posts if you wanted. Do advanced search, member: cullin8s

Horizontal injection has been used for some time as many hand pour guys used the single sided molds with a top plate and similar injection port. Naturally some started trying to make two piece molds and do the same but encountered the same issues as the OP. Vertical just a lot easier to get better results.

Pushing plastic through a mold to remove the bubble is fine but wastes a lot of plastic and doesn't make sense in my book as a mold redesign removes the issue. I understand the reservoir mentality but that won't make up for trapped air bubble unless you are really passing a lot plastic through. Most likely depending on plastic temp that area is "dead" rather quickly with plastic just pushing past those slower areas (sort of like an eddy). As you have mentioned you can add other vents to those trouble areas but once again ok to fix a mold already made but remolding can remove the issue.

With the shape of that bait I would rework how you are making the mold. Inject from the top not the side that way any bubbles will raise into the sprue. The current design any bubbles will naturally want to collect in the high point of the lure body unless you flush them out with plastic.

I still have some from early 2000. I started messing with matching it years ago but wasn't a big issue as I had plenty of it at the time. I think I recall using Del's Olive as a starting point then but could be wrong.

Any of the typical places will carry them but often to get exactly what you need best bet is to buy some lexan and/or micarta and trace a the bill or find a template online. McMaster Carr where I usually order stuff. Now if only going to repair the bait and not make many best bet may be to hit a member up here to send you a lip in the mail. http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/crankbait-bills-lure-lips/ http://www.luremaking.com/catalogue/catalogue-index/catalogue-items/plastic_diving_lips.htm http://lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Lure-Lips/Circuit-Board-Lure-Lips.html ebay

Well you did get back the important part. Fairly easy fix, especially if you have another to trace the general lip shape from. Give the lip slot a good cleaning and look for any cracks, chips, etc.. in the mouth and repair. Some Devcon 5 minute and slide the lip in and good to go.

If they are Sisson stuff sold at Wal Mart (I bought them several years ago) they were all garbage. I had to take a lighter to all the lips and bend/twist them to get them to work and that was essentially as a wake bait.

This appears to be a cyclic event as I can recall having similar discussions (several times over the past 11 years) with guys about the new "lure" builder.

Both still available.