Travis

Most action on that sort of lure is more of from how you work the bait with the rod. Sharp twitches, jerks, sweeps, and pulls.

Take a page from woodworkers and build a modified small bench to sit on top of current working station. Typically a modification of the milkman's, dovetail, whatever you want to call it. Puts the work up higher (hand cut dovetail guys) so don't have to bend or strain the eyes as much. Add a few dog holes, clamps, etc.. and you could have a nice set up to work from and do some tackle making with. Several versions kicking around but this one not too bad and would give a very sturdy area to work from. Incorporate some features observed on full size benches (tool tray) and components could be stored for easy access. I have one I started more in line with Schwartz build in Popular Woodworking but never have managed to finish it up. http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdffree/011176038.pdf

I never understood the big deal, charge more for the lure. Taxes on the typical lure prices guys are selling at is chump change.

You guys don't have a junk email for this sort of stuff? I thought that was the norm.

Not bad at all (skimmed a few articles only). I agree with with the above and also think several (many) of the images need some photo shop work as the color is over saturated.

Ditch the flash and use supplemental lighting. I typically end up using a make shift photo box. It is a cheap laundry basket, folding, constructed of the mesh. It helps filter the light and distribute it to remove glare/hot spots. I will lay different paper to filter or distribute the lighting as needed to try and avoid a lot of shadows. I think some shadows are needed as it helps to be more 3D and not as sterile. First pic used different thickness of paper to try and make the white to blue fade background, tried getting all white for the second and my crank pic didn't diffuse the light properly as I have several spots of glare.

Yeah only a few pins are needed and really not all that critical as I have plenty of molds with no pins just relied on the imperfections of the one face to register it in the correct position with the second half.

Vasoline will also work if you just lightly smear some on the center of the bait. Ideally you don't want it to leak around the sides so very little is needed. I have used double sticky tape but more finicky than the vasoline in my opinion as I don't want it sticking out past the master.

That video always cracks me up. While it is good as far as basic concepts that is about the worst effort in making a decent mold one could follow. What a waste of money to end up with a mold that has to be spread with your fingers to pour and then has to be trimmed once done pouring the baits.

I think it is just par for the course as many of the forums I am on (various subjects) have those topics that almost always end up going this route. I think it is fine to give as an option for someone to try out but see it used to "fix" a defect in craftsmanship. The question usually goes I am having (insert issue) and many of the responses won't have anything to do with how to fix the issue in a wood bait but default to change material of build. For example much easier to to slap a band aid on the issue than fix the guy that has a poor technique in installation of line ties. The same technique that would kill a wood bait can be carried over into other materials. The other material just "hides" or allows the defect to exist. I enjoy the process of building a lure, trying to figure out what I screwed up (surprised this ever happens ), and then making the corrections on the following build. Do I want the lure to fail, no not at all, but that is what makes it interesting to me. I mainly use wood (basswood and balsa) but have PVC in the shop and kick out some lures with it now and then also. PVC just has no "life" to it when using and gives me the same overall experience as making foamies as the end product ends up feeling more about stamping out widgets than crafting for me.

As long as the master is secure, so none of the mold making material can pass under it, you are good to go.

I am with Smallmouth on this one. I tried several silicone ones out when they started popping up years ago on threads to see if it was a better product. They have done a very good job holding pencils in my shop for some time now. I think it boils down to how a guy learns to pour. I learned to pour by me controlling the amount of plastic, the heat, etc... other guys can't pick this up, physical limitations, exist or simply they just don't want to mess with it and learn to pour based on what the equipment does. Either works as you get good baits. I just prefer using a more stable cup than the silicone cups I used. I had one that sat in a holder but overall just more hassle than the pyrex or modified metal measuring cups. Pouring craw claws like you mention I would first pour the body tail leading up to the arms. Then have my second color ready to go and pour the claws. I start the pour by pouring the claw in the thickest area possible. Once the first bit of plastic makes it over the lip I tilt the cup very slightly back and allow the viscosity of the plastic to "pull/feed" the plastic into the craw and fill to almost completion. Not really pouring as if you let it continue the feed with stop unless you slightly tilt the cup. I try not pouring at all but the let the plastic feed itself quickly in a thin consistent stream. Get it right and it trails off on its own at the right time to move to the next cavity. I will have a little piece of plastic (cooled) to dab on the tip of the edge of the cup to catch drips and expose a fresh pour surface if it starts to skim if needed.

I source basswood local now but best bet is to order from respected carving places or have found some good dealers on ebay off and on. You can get it at craft stores but they price it like it is gold. Now the last stuff I got was free and should last for one or two cranks (the boy is standing on two of the pieces and two more the same size next to it).

If they want it color matched then I ask for several photos of the bait they have, or a link to a bait, or tell me the manufacturer.

http://everything-smallmouth.com/gut-hooked-fish-removal/

I have used poly and some of those are sealed with them (the craw mold on top right) but most of the solid yellow ones are Durham's rock puddy molds and are sealed with multiple thinned coats of Devcon. I cast most of the molds in smooth walled containers or mold boxes lined with shipping tape.

I would recommend not going that route. Sometimes the money spent to get a product designed to do what you want with great results is well worth the time spent trying to get something to work to the same level. Plaster, Durhams, etc.. are all fine and very capable of producing quality molds for cheap but at times RTV is just the way to go. Choose the mold making material on the bait you are doing and it saves a lot of time. Trial size Smooth On mid 20 bucks add 10 or so for shipping or the Hobby Lobby alumilite high strength 3 with coupon 15 bucks. Either will allow several molds to be made depending on size of the baits.

I agree it can be done and yes people that don't take anything into account make it and people that are honestly complete idiots make it. Just as people that come up with business plans, market analysis, etc.. fail everyday. Like I said people should go for it if they want I just find many hobbyists make the jump to make a living and aren't exactly honest with their claims. Over the years many guys on sites like this, wood working sites, etc.. I frequent talk about making a living doing what they love. Some in fact are and great but the vast majority are not. I know too many guys that are always starting a new business. Reality they have nothing to show for it but felt very important for many years. I know most of the discussion in pointless on this matter as you have two camps. Some that look at as a true business and what it needs to be to meet their families needs and then others that essentially it is the flavor of the day. My dad used to point it with his buddies. They would run a guide service for so many years, then start a decking company for so many years, then they would be opening this or that, etc.. Next thing you know my Dad and others are retired (stupid for working for the man) and start up business guy are still starting businesses 10 years later and have no retirement, own nothing, etc.. but are living that lifestyle. I hope it works out for you as it can definitely work and heck would say at your age nothing really to lose. I would be too afraid to do anything similar as I have 4 others dependent upon me. Me not making what I make now at the hours I spend doing it would mean less time with my kids and wife and them living a very different lifestyle.

Yes there are guys that make a living at it but many that don't qualify in my book as making a living. I am all for everyone to make a go at it if they desire but you have to be honest with the numbers and so many aren't or their way of living would leave me very uncomfortable with my life situation. Bottom line for those in a situation of a permanent job, take whatever your job is now and you have to make the same if we just take by default that is making a living. My making a living now is also paying for my "living" after I am done working. I can't tell you how many "retired" people I come across that based retirement purely off an age and had nothing to do with being debt free and a savings. As he pointed out he is a kid... he isn't making a living. Someone else associated with him is making a living however. He thinks people are over thinking it because he doesn't think or comprehend the true magnitude of everything else at this point. Very understandable and perfectly OK as he is a kid problem is many don't every learn and go into adulthood with the same perspective. There are things such as insurance (home, vehicle, property, life, etc..) 401k (company match potentially and reduction of taxable income), feeding a family, paying for childcare, buying clothes, vehicles, electronics, paying utilities, property taxes, house payment, oh as many know the list goes on. As long as these things are taken into account when one starts to talk about making a living doing something all is good. Anyone looking at I make x dollars when I sell a lure and doesn't take into account all that has to be taken out of that dollar and the time they spent to make that dollar is foolish.

Bass Pro Shops XPS Balsa Shad (Bone XXX Shad color)

Neat to find a source for stuff that isn't the ordinary. DeVeryTY used to make some for his lures. If I recall he used glass rod stock and torch to make his but that was pushing 11 years ago. There have a been a few others to use and make some also since but I don't recall being much instruction on how to. As mentioned plenty of taxidermy eyes available but unless you are making a very high end crank 3 bucks and up going to be pricey.

Ebay or setting up your own site about the best bet. Other sites will allow you to sell but similar to ebay they are going to take their share. Ebay gives you the largest audience so might as well give them the money than somewhere else that significantly reduces your potential buyers numbers.

No probably about it, I would be homeless. But luckily I could turn to my secret weapon.

No, as 99.9% of us do not have the skills no matter the bait to compete at this level and would be homeless in short order if dependent on tournament winnings. Colors can make a difference and in the hands of the right person is another variable that can increase their catch rates. However to believe that pros are making a living because they are using Renoir, Picasso, paint schemes is far from the truth. It would be the last thing I would be worried about dialing in. Paint is the first thing the average angler worries about as it is the only variable they can control (they don't understand fish movement, boat placement, lure presentation, etc....) so color is the thing they do have control over.