Travis

They definitely shrink as you start to acquire things but you don't need a ton of space by any means. My shop is 12x16 and I make do. There are space saving ideas and a good layout helps. There are serveral woorkshop planners (wood working) that allows you to set up the floor space and layout with tools, tables, etc... to get a feel for what you are going to be doing. Mobile bases on tools is a must for smaller shops and makes it easy to tuck stuff into corners and under other items. In my shop I have a flip top cart with a miter saw and planner set up, next to a 5 foot work bench, and then a drill press next to it. I have a lathe against one wall and a table saw just off center of the shop floor. I have a bandsaw, jointer, shelving, wood storage (vertical) along that side also. Shelves and pegboard are helpful and if you build an open roof truss you can store items up there also. Some will depend on location as restrictions on what can be built or needing to file permits and have things signed off.

I usually end up using devcon or bondo but have also used a wooden plug. I cut a plug of bass wood or balsa and and pass the hook hanger through it and glue the entire assembly in place. Then I just trim with a knife after it has set and then a few passes with sand paper. Not the best picture but..

Less is best ....... I am afraid you would have to add less fish to the list on many water ways.

I had made a few discs and used a nut/bolt for a shaft and and ran them on the drill press to shape balsa lures. Worked ok but I didn't use it but on a few lures.

To me it fits a segment of bait makers very nicely. I think the main issue with the system is it doesn't really fit a lot of peoples production needs. Many pour more baits than they sell so while nice to have new toys hard to justify something that can help increase production for baits you don't need. Get to needing too many baits and the time you spend making lures is too costly and makes more sense from a business perspective to outsource the production.

I mainly end up using a tricked out older Abu Pro Max or Daiwa Fuego for smaller baits. The rods I use are some ML BPS Pro XPS Finesse Rods that were around for a few years. I bought 3 for under a 100 when the were getting rid of them and the price is right as they end up broken eventually when I am snaking through the woods to get the smallie creek. I am fishing shallow waters with lots of hang ups so Suffix 832. With the rod action no issues with loosing fish and can usually get the crank back when needed. Fishing the lake still find myself using mono Suffix the past few years.

I don't mess with Dremel or any of the small rotary stuff for sanding as I find it much quicker to use a flap sanding wheel in my drill press or hand sand in my opinion for finish and for quick rough sanding I will use a Ridgid spindle sander. To be fair I use basswood and then some balsa so basically you can sand with tissue paper. I imagine a lot depends on ones process of building. I rough out on the bandsaw then take a few passes with the carving knife and then sandpaper when only doing few baits. A sharp carving knife gets me quickly to a stage little sanding is needed. I usually buy the kids sticky backed craft foam and stick it to the various grit papers to make little sanding pads. I do use my dremel for doing more carving (not on cranks typically) and use various diamond, ruby, etc.. stones for sanding detail and have always used with the flex shaft. I never found them useful (or quick) for sanding purposes on a crankbait. I have a battery operated Dremel I use at times but it was made for carving pumpkins and well that is what it does best. Pretty much see the various stages. Rough out, going to knife work to sanding. Flap sander makes quick work and very easy to knock out a lot of baits. I either use the box in the pic below with vacuum hose or box fan with furnace filter.

Presto pots are great if pouring large orders but I don't like them for smaller orders. It depends on how you are pouring. Pouring bulk of one color and having stock never did much for me so my presto doesn't get a lot of use. Most of the stuff I poured was more custom one off laminate colors for guys. That said I still have my presto and have no issues using when needed. Webb yes you are thinking right just need to take it a little further. Build your wall around the RTV mold and leave about a 1/2 inch gap between the mold and wall. Pour the hot plastic into the cavities slowly to make sure no air bubbles get trapped and continue to fill and cover the entire RTV mold until about 1/4 to 1/2 inch plastic covers the mold. After it cools like you mentioned you have a reverse of your original. You then mix up some POP or rock puddy and fill it and let it set. Once it sets up you will have a replica of the original mold. Do a few at a time and you can have a lot of cavities the following day.

Visual appearance of the bait sanded vs non under dunked under water doesn't really mean much. What happens as that sanded bait rolls does it reflect light (with the scuffed imperfect surface) in the same manner as that slick coated crank? Is it less intense? etc......

Easiest method if his original mold is good is to just mold it. I have done this a lot in the past to fill large orders.

I would recommend Calhoun's plastic never had any issues with discoloration with proper heating. Multiple microwave reheats usually ok. I would also recommend getting more molds and be able to pour out a cup when using the microwave and try not to reheat. Faster and keeps less issues from popping up with reheating colors, glitters, etc... Can get some heat stabilizer and mix into current plastic to help out also. If you are keeping temperatures in check and getting discoloration in the microwave presto isn't going to help.

I won't blame it on foreign manufacturing all that much. Collectively we have received exactly what we wanted...cheap goods at all cost. American goods in some sectors helped out by making complete garbage.

I has been done for sure, don't know who was the first. I used a sluggo mold (durhams) and strung several smaller super fluke baits in series initially on dental floss and then the ends were threaded through small holes drilled in the mold and taped to keep taught. The poured the clear to encapsulate. While still warm the floss was pulled. The in series look was hmmm stupid looking so then started to glue them offset to one another and use the same stringing process. Better but not until I went with two piece molds using similar concept were the results better. I also used colored beads, feathers, dead minnows, photocopied fish images on copy paper, fish skeleton printed on lens paper, and countless other things while playing in the shop. Probably about 7 to 8 years ago. I know others were doing it prior and threading crappie baits on the the floss.

That is good way to start but guys really need to break that 50k down. Take medical insurance out of it, social security, taxes, retirement savings, life insurance, etc.... so that 50k now looks like what with regards to take home cash? How many hours a week to make that 50k? Now a spouse with a decent job/benefit package will make things a lot easier or tougher depending on what they feel you should be bringing in.

Start your search with styrenic block copolymers.

Thanks for the info Gene. Will be sure to pass it on to some others. I always enjoyed chatting with Coley about lures, fishing, and whatever came up.

Jdeee just throwing out numbers that should be doable for someone with a degree/technical background mid aged with continual work experience. Salary ranges vary considerably on region but if one takes the look at the average starting salary of college graduates upper 30's for humanities and social services (historically one of the lower starting salaries). Now most of those jobs would have a week vacation starting, holidays, etc.... I know still many that don't get college degrees, nothing wrong with that just wonder when these making a living off of lure threads a lot of making a living depends on ones definition and those that I know that go into their own business often overlook the benefits package as difficult thing to assign dollars for most of us. A full time minimal wage job with basic benefits it seams that based on the same amount of effort in a small lure business you are are going to be financially worse off. Once one with technical skills, degree, etc... and work experience gets into the equation it seams even less doable unless we are talking going a much bigger route. Of course it can be done and several here have, are, and will be successful. Just typically I don't see a list of everything one may be giving up mentioned in these threads and something one should look at (just not the take home check) when deciding about trying to make a go at it.

Something that always gets me with these threads is what does one define as making a living? A guy I spoke with a few times was a "commercial" fishermen. He essentially made enough to pay for gas, a 6 pack of beer, and basic necessities he lived in a camper and moved it from campsite to campsite (primitive sites) as there was a maximum length of stay. He would brag about not working for the man and how great it was but I cringe to think of that as making a living. Many guys aren't honest with how successful they are or have a very easily obtained "making a living goal". If one were to make 75k a year, 4 weeks vacation, week sick time, 9 holidays, 2 personal days, 401k with company match, insurance (medical, dental, eye),8 hr a day work week Monday-Friday, SS, Flexible spending, etc...... It adds up to a lot. especially if one has a family and that is also covered by much of this plan. I know many that run their own business that if something went wrong they are a month away from being government supported (in my book they were never making a living and are just kidding themselves). They spend a lot more time to make less in money usually at the expense of family time. Others I know are really being supported by a way too generous spouse.

Steve has a good point and I should have clarified. I have tunnel vision when it comes to lures, if it doesn't target largemouth, smallies, and spots I don't spend too much time on it (well much time in my book). I figure the largest percentage of guys here are after bass and my earlier response is mainly towards those sites that center around bass and have lure building sections. One shouldn't limit themselves at all. I visit all the sites (infrequently) and spent some time at others researching things over the years as it is interesting to see regional specific style builds. I like the technical aspects and styles of the Japanese Lure builders, the European dominated builds of the site Steve linked in lurebuilding, and then that Australian Lure Lovers, and a few others more species specific. I even checked out a few fly places and never fly fish. It is all about finding the information. I just find the most relevant information and individuals with that information to be centered here. I honestly think that overall the site can be misleading as I think the best method to get this information is directly contacting these individuals and depending on the "feel" of the post or question may not get answered for various reasons.... a guy trying to make a quick buck, looks like a cool thing to do this week but next I will be into photography, those that all ready have the answers, etc..... You can also find a lot of good information but have to spend a lot of time weeding through it. There may be 3 relevant top coat threads out of the 200 for example.

I don't visit too many other sites but over all can tell you that rare to find another place with guys with as much information as you will find here. You come across guys on other sites (usually members here also) that are gurus on the other sites based on the information they are getting here and of course their experience. I always have used 16 lb density foam. Make my own molds from any of the typical mold materials but RTV my favorite by far and use masters I carve.

This has been covered in a lot of detail over the years. I would really start to search and go back over threads as it all is there as it will be your best bet to get the information. Sure some guys will give you a little info but not going to be the meat and potatoes you are looking for and more importantly not alienate some that would likely help you. Search foamies, casting resin, etc... you should easily find one or two guys that have done it.

I took the "fish magnet" to mean little to be honest. Too many years fishing with guys to find out so many know absolutely nothing about catching fish you come across the one trick ponies, the complete hacks, then the ones that completely humble you as they find and catch fish anywhere. When guys that do it for a living start inquiring about get one or more then you know you are on to something.

Ben I am in line with your thinking of using the Forstner bit. The general purpose do it all bits are great for the weekend handyman type work but they are made to tackle anything you come across and don't excel at anything just do most satisfactory. As described above many ways to get a hole made but all involve a lot more effort and time both in initial prep then also on the end when you are trying to get a good finish. I used a dremel in the past when we were visiting the in laws. All the tips above are great in you have to go that route but definitely not something I would be building into the "method" of making cranks especially if the OP has intentions of trying to do this on any sort of scale (based on his other thread). I use Forstner bit 99.9% of the time in my drill press and have used them in the hand drill but rarely. A brad point bit will also work better than common drill bits. Both these are designed for drilling in wood. I never had any issues with drilling a clean hole in balsa, no precoating necessary. I drill all my holes in the block when square. I also do sharpen them when needed with a little triangle file. Definitely easier with drill press as much easier to control. No over aggressive drilling, the blank stays secure in my vise so no give. It gives uniform consistent results in a fraction of the time. The cost in a forstner bit isn't that much and especially when one starts looking at buying cranks and the results and time saved worth it for me as shop time is limited. Wasting time trying to get something to work isn't for me.

Honestly drill bits are great for some things but others they are very poor choices and anytime you need a clean hole the "do it all drill bit" is a poor decision. Yes you can make do with drill bits and do all sorts of nifty little tricks and to get it to work right or just choose the right tool and do it once and be done with it.

Forstner or decent brad point....... and you will have no issues.