Travis

Even though it has been said it isn't the case......I think some are skeptical just because they see it as a business opportunity for LPO to pitch their company. I will admit I hate to see businesses get involved in what I think as a open site. I think others have similar feelings and would hate to see LPO incorporated into the name/overall theme etc.. . As one email I received put it they hoped it had just switched over and no one was wiser who was behind the scenes they feared it would be an extension of LPO services.

Lots of guys will sell baits but price can be an issue if you are looking for handcrafted complete baits (not that they can't be found). Most refrain from trying to peddle the baits on the site as many find it annoying. Some will work out deals with you...for example I noticed you made knives at some point I am sure a trade for stuff you might have left over would interest some (knife scales for example). I think easiest way is just to PM someone if you find a bait you like. The gallery is nice but for me ends up being a lot I just skim over. It doesn't take too long and you know whose stuff you want to see.

I don't think with the methods we are using you can avoid these seams. You can do things to make them less of an issue but you are going to have them. Definitely have the seam on the vertical as sanding or scraping the area ends up having less effect on the bait. Have you painted and cleared a bait yet? You will loose scales in a heartbeat if you don't have them over exaggerated (in my opinion), nice scales will end up looking like very weak raised areas otherwise. For me going scaleless was the better option for the over look of the bait.

Take a look through the hard bait gallery. Are you more interested in custom handmade lures because that will further narrow the list some.

So many guys can sling paint best to buy the best quality knock offs you can and giving free baits to friends makes for an empty wallet in the end run.

For you guys that use a thermometer have you continue to use it after a few batches? I have never used or found the need to use a thermometer. The most critical and maybe one that sounds stupid is learn to pour. Learn the plastic it will do more for your success than anything else. Clean quick pours are key in my book to getting good plastics. If you dribble, spend too much time trying to partially fill a cavity, moving to the next, having to constantly mess with things, etc.. hard to generate a quality bait without pulling your hair out.

Salt was initially used because a bass had a tendency to hold onto the bait longer. One could argue that with the more sensitive rods, non stretch lines, and scents it is no longer needed. Salt is also added for weight in some baits. Your bait coming across at the seam is because the plastic temps were not correct to fuse together, a proper laminate won't do that. Get both plastics hot and pour the first color then go back and pour the second. It takes a little practice but not too hard.

Yeah I know what you mean about the edge with the tin snips I get a slight burr, a blade ran across the burr shaves it right off. I will check out what I have in the way of blades in my box and give it a try.

I have used sand in some baits for a very long time. Started with a guy that wanted tubes dipped the color of the local river bottoms he fished. He sent me a box of fine sand he had collected and shifted and I used it to color the tubes (no color used in the tubes below). For some colors you have to add some opaque color to boost it but not much. Best to have a dedicated pyrex cup as it gets scratched up really bad (one should be familiar with pyrex properties with regards to scratches/heat/cold shock).

For a smaller worm I always liked Hank's worm as nice larger tail. Also had some sort of kangroo pocket worm (had two areas to insert rattles or scent) but had nice tail.

Depending on the bait it gets tossed in a too be fixed later bin.... that ends up getting chucked later because I decide it must not have been too critical or I would have fixed it then.

I had looked into having some molds made but ended up just sticking with the RTV or POP based on my limited amount of cranks I was making. Currently have so much wood haven't made any foamies in some time. Might have to dig around and see about making some more now after reading this one.

Yeah it does cuts easily on impact. Years ago some were using dies and arbor presses for lips.

I have the Veritas marking gauge and really like it but for cranks I really find it easiest just to have square set set to the proper depth and mark the mid point or alignment guides. This way I can set the drill press once and run through a small batch with less individual marking of each bait. It depends on the crank design but this is how I overall approach it.

I have been cutting lips with tin snips for years, makes short work of coffin bills.

No it doesn't stick to the sides and there were lures with bleeding tablets you could add but messy along with other issues. Red is fine in most shallow water situations but as you mentioned you can't think of true red in many situations. Add the most anglers are about the most superstitious group and are willing to accept the craziest of ideas give them a one up on a fish and you have a large market to sell to. Anglers are becoming more educated but wasn't too long ago if Bill Dance or equivalent said it worked the masses would flock to buy it. Now your comparison to the blue pill is a poor one as ischemic priapism does occur in some instances and we aren't talking hey this is cool advertising ploy. I am not sure if the needle inserted to draw out blood and the injection of saline solution afterwards hurts as much as the initial condition but I will pass on both. Nonfactual claims made by a drug maker don't set well with the FDA. Other companies are quick to point them out to the FDA if they don't get find them already. A quick look at the Warning Letters sent this year and past show false advertising popping up frequently. I think GSK got hit with 3 billion in fines last year for illegal promotion of drugs, Pfizer lost 90% of its income one year because of the fraud and misleading information..... http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/EnforcementActivitiesbyFDA/WarningLettersandNoticeofViolationLetterstoPharmaceuticalCompanies/ucm339597.htm .

These products are made for the most part for use by the general public and in doing so are just squirt/dump until it looks about the same and one is off an running. The failure of these products comes down to guys just not mixing the product.

A coat of paste wax or vasoline works fine. I brush it on the wipe/buff off leaving just the bare minimum. Some will use foil and lay over the wax to increase the ease of separation but I find it just one more thing to mess with.

The mold is purely from the fact the POP mold wasn't dry. I have had it happen a few times when I was experimenting with different ways to make molds early on. Just store them open when first made. Many like to bake the molds but I never really found the need or it to make any better product.

RTV easy enough to modify to inject. Just need to sandwich it between two pieces of aluminum (can use other molds if you have them. Strange one to want to inject as they are the easiest (maybe french fry easier) mold out there.

Well put I personally don't find zig zag type action as hunting because of the very rhythmic action. It is a nice feature as it is different from much of the action of lures out there but never has this been a feature I mark as a "hunter".

I doubt it is Delrin, most likely just ABS plastic injected around a hook hanger. Easy and cheap to manufacture that way.

I will firmly disagree with injection makes superior baits. I still buy from others on occasion to check out the product and can say much of what I find is why so many originally got into pouring in the first place. Focus switched for many reasons and thin appendages wasn't it (but a nice addition but only recently in the grand scheme of things). Bottom line injectors allowed anyone to make baits easily and quickly. Injectors fit the bill for many guys. Some physically weren't capable of pouring a bait because they shake so bad, some just don't have the patience, etc... Hand pour molds are still readily available and one can always make very nice molds with some practice. I rarely use my injectors and injection molds and opt for hand pouring as I find it more enjoyable.

I never spent too much time looking at extended water contact. I usually ended just going overnight figuring that was far enough in excess to determine if any potential issues.

I haven't used the product yet but had looked into it briefly several years ago when looking at options for topcoats. It doesn't have any information on the hardness but may do for cranks. What does the bait do when held under water for extended period of time? Abrasion resistance impact resistance, etc... will all be the key attributes we are usually more concerned with. Of course if ease of use (and cost for many) can impact topcoat selection and can make overlooking less desirable performance characteristics. As far as looks, many products will give a good looking bait. But a good sign for an initial test. Depending on what guys are using to seal and what organics are used in sealer may be issues. The test is the performance, so will be looking forward to what happens from use.