Travis

Xylene Acrylic Sealer... If you contact Durock they will send technical specks about their product.

You should be fine for a few pours. Are you able to saturate the wood with PAM, WD40, etc... prior. You can also just cut some Devcon 5 minute epoxy and do multiple coats and seal it before use.

I have done similar to Roger but find dipping still quicker and overall better results. Now for small tubes you can just fill the test tube let the plastic set and then slice. I have done this for a long time on some baits with fair results. I wouldn't go any bigger than what I have pictured, but most don't have easy access to smaller test tubes.

Several other interesting discussion over the years on this topic.

Not in my book. Hand pours really have been diluted over the years even before injection became so popular. At one point hand pours really meant something. You were getting a unique product that bordered on artistry with careful blending of colors, it was more of skill. Then it evolved into more just trying to beat the price of the name brand stuff. Colors well... more traditional southern bass fisheries (solid colors heavy on glitter). Just dump the plastic in and churn them out and just beat the price of zoom, GY, etc...

Many of the organic solvents will dissolve inks so if you will to test the pen you choose with the typical coatings you use. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/23631-pen-to-write-on-lures/?hl=%2Bpigma+%2Bmicron#entry177445 Help! Problem With Ink Running Under Polyurethane Topcoat - Hard Baits - TackleUnderground.com

One could make a 2 piece mold no problem (from conventional mold techniques) but I always found dipping easier solution for numbers.

I have done it several ways over the years. Hard to go wrong in the method since the final mold material is so forgiving. Of course they don't last as long and depending on how hot they get can start to warp if you don't add material to stabilize the mold. I typically have used clay on all hard masters and if using a soft master then after i pour the resin into the mold box (legos) i will just press the soft master a little half way into the mold. After it sets then pull the master and sand the face flat before molding the second half. It is a thick product for sure and getting it into fine details not the best medium. I had no issues picking up all the fine ridges on a sinking stick bait.

Might want to take a look at an orange for testing.

A board with nails will easily do it. I make mine from just a piece of poplar and then finishing nails. I drive the nails almost thru and then clip the heads so it is easy to slide the wire back off. Mine has lasted for years and has several different crank versions on it.

I would imagine it is the Pledge floor shine. No reason to add that product to the paint in my opinion. Windex is used by some for the benefits of alcohol and some claim the "soap" agent helps adhesion and makes it spray smoother but I was never impressed with the outcome and on some of the cheaper acrylics (pearls) it caused some particles to gum. They are all composed of too many components: you have fragrances, "soap", propriatary agents (what ever that is), acids, stabilizers, etc.. I don't want to add anything that may actually compromise the clear coat, I have cranks I painted using windex and really didn't think it had many added benefits+ but am far from good when it comes to an airbrush.

A good pair of polarized sunglasses will block 100% of UV light.

I had a similar experience years ago with the lip of a crank. Glued a bunch up and set them on my wheel and had a lamp over them as I was working. Came back later and to coat the cranks and noticed one bill was all crooked. The crank warmed just enough that a bubble swelled from the line tie and worked its way along the back of one side of the bill and push that side up just slightly. A skin had formed on the devcon so as small "balloon" had formed on that end of the slot.

I don't think many have any issues with sharing information at all. Bouncing ideas is great way to make progress. My issue has always been those that proceed to ask a question (which is fine and needed) but are completely rude, know it all types, that have a sense of entitlement. At times it is just misinterpretation of the intent but that seems to get cleared pretty quick and brushed off. Others just....well they can't have many friends.... If someone asks something that makes me have to rethink the way I am doing or would do something that is a win in my book.

Aluminum molds for eggs are available for soft plastic, I don't have that mold but shouldn't be hard to find someone that would send you some to check out before purchasing. If looking for more durable take a look at the different products available at smooth on. BassTackle.com - Your source for Premium lure molds. 100 Cavity 10 MM Salmon Egg Molds Smooth-On, Inc. - Mold Making & Casting Materials Rubber, Plastic, Lifecasting, and More

http://www.specializedbalsa.com/products2/balsa_sheets.php Wood - Balsa USA Shipping is going to be the killer if you aren't buying much. Hobby lobby will be your best bet if you are fine with lighter density balsa for these cranks (usually what they have in my area is seems but not always).

But I bet you were attentive, asked questions, got things wrong, asked for more direction. You didn't say tell me this now, didn't insult the teacher, or question if she/he knew what they heck they were talking about... Got a swat or detention for that when I was in school.

Been this way for a long time.....I always felt that a new breed of "lure makers" popped up several years ago that were all about taking and had nothing to give. Putting in work, figuring things out, etc.. is a lost art in this day of instant gratification. Many just gracefully bowed out with respect to sharing information and others stepped up and shared what they could. It all works out you just see people finding "new" things to add that were openly discussed many years prior. Just the way things are now. Help those you feel worthy and be cordial to those that aren't.

How cheap do you think Devcon is going to be once you start coating cranks? Devcon adds up once you start to do numbers. Several guys just can't ever get the hang of using devcon most of these "quirks" are well documented over the years but none the less..... make sure bait is sealed properly initially, take account of the paints and what you used to seal as reactions have been known to happen, measure accurately, don't add bubbles, mix well, work quick, select a good brush that is cheap because you will likely chuck it, have heat source to help bring any bubbles to the top, have a system to rotate the crank to level, etc......

Definitely not what I would pick. Don't like the pastel colors, maybe it just is a Mother's day theme. I don't like vertical menu options and they currently look like the theme was designed and then someone thought oh crap I forgot and slapped it on just to get it done. The large border is a waste in my opinion also. I didn't see any different theme options

Neat to see the old stuff. I have a small assortment of Herters molds that were made to make lures. Phthalate free is in my opinion the least of our worries when it comes to fishing. It really is insignificant with respect to current problems with fisheries. Now it is an excellent selling point so I am sure it will be pushed hard by retailers and then other groups. Just the current hot/scare tactic being pushed in various circles.

It isn't the RTV silicone and if the clay should have cleared up after a few pours as the plastic picked up any fines left from the sanding of the master. What glitters are you using? Not all glitters are equal some of the craft stores will partially to completely melt and leave clear plastic with a frosted or hazy look to it.

Not sure I am following the dry ice point........ Long term expense is the downfall. You can rent a cyclinder/regulator for a reasonable price but it will just add up. Buy a good airbrush compressor if noise is an issue.

Not a big deal from my experience I have several older molds that I made that never had guides. Since the two sides are a mate and not completely smooth surfaces they mate together just fine. Just clamp and pour.

Skeeter and Devcon? I see more an more "old" names pop up more frequently now which Is good to see. Enjoyed the tutorial very much but then a little biased (still using it since 2004 with zero issues).