Travis

It had tons of bubbles before even heated by the looks of the string of pics. Did it just get shipped? That is a lot of bubbles and it looks like you cooked it to boot trying to get them out. Just going by the second picture since the froth/bubbles already look light yellow/tan in the center portion. Calhouns shouldn't even get that tinted when heated. That would be one I just dumped if microwaving but chuck it into a presto pot maybe not as of an issue. I have wanted to run some of these plastics at work and see what the volatile composition and percentages are of these "bad" batches. This is about the worst I have had bubbles in many years. 4 oz plastic, shaken in jug with nuts/bolt set up, heated in microwave, stirred with metal spoon.

Gary Yamamato and Lurecraft are two that come to mind.

Yes it would work if you get everything set up right and made sure everything was compatible with the plastic, off gassing, and temperatures. Pressure Pot - LureCraft

Always amazes me.... My advice is to spend the money and test the products you are interested in yourself. As mentioned when a person starts selling a product quality seems to change over night for certain individuals. I have seen it for those in about every "camp" when it comes to guys selling plastics. The get a gallon of the product and upon first pouring they are telling you "how it is". Two weeks later and a higher ranking dog on the porch says it isn't all it is cracked up to be and they all fall in line behind. The product moves to different seller and the cycle repeats. It is the reason why I usually test everything myself if really interested. Does it cost me a little money, sure but it all resells very easy with little loss of price. You can test a few batches of plastic and sell it the next day for a very minor hit, molds the same way, etc... so you end up loosing 5 dollars.... well worth it. Price per unit with respect to quantity is what consumers have always responded to and business have catered, plain and simple whether you want to look at it price per lb, gallon, etc...

I have a basic entry level delta band saw. I think it was around 120 bucks, there may be a model under I am not for sure. I have had to replace a few parts associated with the blade tension portion (seems to be a common problem). As far as cranks it is fine and will work for some resawing and other woodworking. If one enjoys doing some woodworking I would jump up some and get a better unit, I know it is one of the first things on my list to get replaced.

Band saw hands down. As far as accuracy I cut close to the pattern line and final shaping is done sanding. I move much quicker that way and in my opinion get much better accurate results. I have a scroll saw also but would only mess with it in the smallest of baits. I used it for lips at one time but a good pair of tin snips and sanding wheel faster in my book once again. I get consistent results and don't spend a lot of time in doing so. Not identical but these used a band saw and sanding drum attachment on a drill press. I find the sanding drum a big help for a lot of things until I move up. No hand sanding would take much longer but not bad on basswood and balsa isn't an issue at all.

I recall reading guys using food coloring to do this on model forums.

The holding the paper away from the lure will definitely work. Some guys years ago also got into using different tips on the rattle cans along with a permanent trough/stencil set up. A cradle was made to hold baits and then a think piece of wood, or cardboard was positioned to cover most of the bait. The ones I saw were a permanent set up so a guy could do a dozen baits or so at a time. Check out Graffiti stores for different tips that may help out. http://www.bombingsc...m/shop-tips.htm

It made more sense but he deleted other posts. He makes masters and wants to give them a smooth finish. He did not want basic information to seal with a generic product name. He wants specific name of product to use. He will then use the masters to make vacuum formed molds. He does not make fishing lures but makes molds chocolate candies, jewelry, etc.. and wants to expand his line of products to sell. I have no idea what temperatures the molds will stand up to or even care after it became clear his intention and how he was asking (more of commanding) and the fact the words he decided to emphasis with CAPITALIZATION.

My Craftsman depth stop is two knurled nuts that lock together. They easily back off if not careful. I typically will wrap some tape to stop this from occurring if I need it to remain set. It isn't enough to drive me mad and go buy a new press at the moment but if I worked with it every day I would have to come up with a better solution or ditch it and buy something else.

Personally when it comes to tools that I am going to use I often skip the budget tools. Don't get me wrong some are fine and I buy many things I am not going to do often but a drill press is one where I would spend the money. Take time to search some reviews and find what you want. I have a 12 inch Craftsman that I use. It has performed flawlessly but I would not likely get one again unless the depth stop has been upgraded. I just have to check it often and really make sure it is secure and "locked" in place. Grizzly, Delta, and Rikon, seem to be a few that pop up in many wood magazine good buys/top tools.

Thanks for the comment. I got to thinking and my description of the pen was incorrect. The corrected information is: ZIG Millennium 05 is the pen and has a 0.45 mm tip. They make a Millennium 005 that equal a 0.2 mm size. Also to clarify the Pigma Micron 01 has a a tip size of 0.25 they also have the 005 (0 .2 mm size). I definitely want to pick up 005 size of either to see how they perform. Signatures have always bugged me, I want to mark the bait but do so in an inconspicuous way. Does it matter of course not but when you are making your own stuff you can be as picky as you want.

I have been using a Millennium .05 from ZIG memory Systems. It came from Hobby Lobby/Michaels, etc.. Waterproof, non bleeding, archival grade, pen. I have had no issues with this one either. With a light touch you can easily sign a bait small enough not to distract from anything. I will look for the .01 pen to try out also. Smaller would always be better. I included a picture to show about the size on average I get with little effort using the pen I mentioned.

I am sure it could be done if the right product was found or sifted but not for sure the gains would really out way a durhams rock puddy or POP mold to begin with. Once those are sealed well with an good epoxy they last a long time from my experiences. Some of used dental molding products and similar media to make molds but never really seemed to take off. I don't know if price, ease of attainment, or if basically ended up not being much better than the usual methods. I have several boxes of PermaStone laying around to use on a vivarium project and might make a mold out of it to see how it does. http://www.activaproducts.com/products/casting-mold-making-compound/permastone

Sorry I already read the previous deleted posts .......I am sure others haven't so sit tight.

Tell me how to do this exactly so I can make money. You have been given the answers and have used the search function just can't connect the dots. I just can't recall how one would do it myself.

Underside of "coke" can. Always have one around can add any solvent to thin you want no issues.

Never had any issue with adding solvent prior to mixing devcon. This has always been to coat molds however. Never added to coat crank.

I am not aware of any blanks with a profile that could easily be worked to that general shape. Most would take more time than just cutting blanks. If you don't have the tools you might be able to work out a deal with someone to rough cut some blanks. They would be quick to knock out even with the rough keel shape. I prefer a more permanent template that allows me to mark lip, hook hangers, etc... I make all my templates from wood. Once I make that template it lasts much longer and reduces the things I don't like about paper products (overall wear, soft around transitions, and template height just to name a few). I like to have all the key information on my templates also. The lip slot, hook hanger, etc... and eventually I will put he weight needed and wood types on the template face also. I transfer it with all the markings and knock out the blanks.

For me I it really never has been a big deal if stuff gets knocked off by big guys but I only make stuff to pay for the habit and not trying to make money. If trying to make money I would approach it differently. My main bone of contention is honestly with the small guy. Too many kids playing, too many internet tough guys, guys that can't figure out how to do the simplest of tasks etc..... At one time you had guys/gals figuring things out. The learned the ins and outs. Sure you needed help at times but people were able to accomplish things without having their hands held at every step. Now I honestly believe that many are incapable of figuring out the simplest of ideas, concepts, colors, etc.. They flood every forum with stupid (yes there are stupid questions forget the PC bullcrap) and at the same time they have websites peddling their "custom" tackle. In my opinion it has turned lure sites into nothing more than social outlets and free advertising space. Sharing of knowledge is great and can really advance skills, techniques, and drive new innovative products, but you have to have the right mix of people. That is the reason why I said that much of it goes on in private chats, pm, and emails. When several guys from different knowledge backgrounds, skill sets, and have common sense it is amazing where things can go.

Lots of guys still innovating and making things. Things changed long ago with respect to open discussions on concepts and ideas. It is still done but not in open forums too many guys looking for handouts (with respect to how to, concepts, etc) that give nothing in return and more importantly turn around and try and make a buck. Typically they make an inferior crap product and help flood the market with junk. Chats with invited people, pm, and email are where some have turned to.

Should be interesting to see what you come up with. I have discussed this a lot with fellow lure makers and a few engineers. It is always very interesting but rarely am satisfied with where it goes. As you know stay open minded collect the data and don't make it fit (all to common practice). On a side note. Berkley engineered the "perfect" crankbait, lots of research in the test tanks, pro's letting them use there "honey" baits, measurements, etc.... to come up with the ever so popular..... what was that series. Might be a good place to start. I might have the article laying around still.

I have been using the basic flex cut knives and haven't had any issues. They preform well and if you keep a strop handy you will have no issues. Price isn't going to run most off on these knives either. Hevie, Denny, Cape Forge, and many others to choose from and lots of customs stuff to boot. Or keep up with making your own. I would likely still want to buy a few commercial or give a few a very good look over. I prefer a wider handle and don't think I would want a metal handle on a carving knife.

Whle I twist I pull at the same time. First few twists are of course loose and not clean looking as in the second picture. Just keep going. You can easily twist until you snap the wire by hand so don't worry and just keep twisting until you get what you are looking for. Over time the finish nail will bend if that is an indication about the amount of pull. I can sit and make a lot while watching television (precut lenghts), that way it doesn't classify as me being out in the shop again.

I am a glutton for punishment and still do most of mine by hand. A finishing nail and vice grips.