Travis

Hmmm. Sort of like the Herter's mold and plastic compound they sold back in the day to make your own frogs, craws, minnows, etc......

There are various variables with why and how this occurs. Unless one wants to research electrons, electric fields, heat transfer, etc... no sense in using lureology to explain why one can and/or can't do it. Several claims in the thread are not correct. One shouldn't assume that all glitter is the same. Irregularties in surface, production, product composition etc.. will all vary from manufactuer, lot to lot, and even in the same bottle since quality control isn't a huge issue with the product. Coatings over glitter can play a role in "sparking". Repeated heatings cause decomposition in some coatings, thinning in areas, cracking, and other abnormalites that typically increase in as things are heated. In my experience as one continually reheats some glitters the more likely one is to see the problems occuring. I have looked at different "sparking" glitters over the years and noted such occurrences. I have used all sorts of glitters and the blanket statement all metallic glitters can't be used is absolutely false. I have had glitters that spark and glitters that don't. For me it isn't a big deal. Chuck it or give it to the kids we aren't talking about a major investment.

Fishes of Tennesse is in my opinion a much better book and would recommend it over all the Fish of (insert state) books that I have looked at.

Vodkaman is correct it is a logperch species. Most likely a big scale logperch.

Lots of filling to do cutting out a rap lip and replacing with a circuit board lip. Not worth the effort in my book. I would rather just build one from scratch.

Guess I should be thankful that I managed to get it right when I put mine together.

I have made lots of lures inside the house. It doesn't have to be messy at all. A box fan and a furnace filter will pick up fines if you carve witing a few feet. If you choose something like balsa or basswood hand sanding can easily be done and in my opinion stirs up little dust in comparison to power sanding. I set up a card table in a corner of a room for years. Everything goes best if you do things in series. Cut out X many bodies. Put away those materials. Carve and shape baits, clean up and put away those materials. Continue the steps and take all cranks to each step at the same time.

You can use Devcon 5 minute epoxy to glue the lips in. You can (not usually done) mold the lip directly into the lure. You can use any plug to make the mold. If it is a wooden crank just a little twisting or sliding of a sharp blade will free the lip. If plastic bait or firmly secured then cut it out with bandsaw, scroll saw, dremel, etc..... I would recommend just making a wooden master a lot more satisfying than copying something.

My favorite mold making tutorial of all time. The tutorial at one time was here on TU and Shawn was a regular contributor and I thought moderator at one point. I know he was big help to me when I started making RTV molds. Just follow his tutorial and don't rush it and you will be happy with the results. All my RTV molds have always followed the approach in the tutorial.

I would think that balsa would be about the only wood you could use with an epoxy/sand shaper. I have a DIY dremel router table and the amount of wood you are wanting to remove, in my opinion, would put too much strain on the smaller shaft of a dremel bit. I would not forsee the set up lasting long and then of course the risks associated with it. A laminte trimmer or router table would be your best bet for hard woods and only if set up as to avoid injury. Most of my baits are smaller and in my opinion not user friendly for routing. I did set up a jig/pin system to route some larger baits but still wasn't happy with the results and saftey of the system. My only real success has been with larger balsa cranks and a drill press/bit combination. I utilize a clamp to hold the crank and can rather quickly shape the bait but these are larger cranks with thicker bodies.

When I first read the topic I had feeling that we might see a post or two from some seasoned crank guys.

The notebook is the correct way to go if done properly. I have used one daily for the past 9 years to do all my lab work for the very reasons mentioned. Lot of stuff to dig into if one is interested but deep pockets typically still win out in the end.

All part of the game. I still think you are right however that patents aren't necessary for the majority of small lure makers. A lot depends on how much money one has to defend a patent. Those lawyers, fees, and how things amazingly get drug out for extended times really eats into ones pocketbook.

I have never fished the bait but from the pictures it does't look difficult at all to mold. A muliple two cavity pop/durhams would not be difficult at all. Everything looks like it would pour well. Maybe a little venting in the tail and possibly have to enlarge the tail/body connection area just a little but shouldn't even have to do that. I have molds with much thinner appendages that pour fine and are made from durham's.

Michael's carries it, but I haven't ever found blue there.

I have an article somewhere on some studies conducted on this very topic. Beef liver was the best in catching numbers and species.

I just bought a pair of Frog Toggs Helbender's for around 85 dollars shipped off ebay (NIB). First impression looks like a decent pair of waders, fit was good and light weight. If the waders perform as well as their raingear should be a good purchase. I have used boot foot waders and never liked them and switched to stocking foot rather quickly. Of course that raises costs. I have waded in stocking foot neoprenes for the past 10 years and never found them to be uncomfortable (Red Ball, Red Head, and Cabelas). That includes many 8 hour days in 90+

Many guys jump in like gang busters only to find out well it ain't exactly cheap. For selling it gets even tougher. Over the past several years with websites, vendors, etc... the market for handpours and custom plastics have been hammered. Now in my eyes custom handpours are rare because basically anything goes. I prefer doing custom stuff and is really about all I do usually. Color combinations not offered, styles of baits, etc.... Soft plastics is dominated by poor mans mass production methods for common baits in many cases. I have a presto pot for just those reasons. This typie of pouring doesn't take much ability. Grab a recipie of a site and pull a lever and you are good to go. Add some two piece aluminum molds and you can knock out some baits. As long as the guy gets something their buddy doesn't have they are happy (unfortunate) the ability to say I had these made trumps the guys GY bought at the store, lol. The senko craze really drove the nail home I am afraid. As far as pouring for yourself it depends. If you don't fish a lot then you won't save much money. It comes down to if you just enjoy making your own baits. If you like making unique colors or styles, etc.....

Another forum (non tackle related) I visit at times has had this pop up out of the blue. A guy wants to know if anyone recalls the name of the lure in the photo. By the looks of the lip design and from descripition of a pocket for scent/paste I think it is likely just "Chinese Knockoff" lures produced for the retailer. I don't recall ever seeing this bait but then again it could have come out and was yanked in short time. Does anyone else have an idea what it is?

I will take them both.

A goby isn't too hard of a fish to carve. Just focus on the things that most people think of when they think of a goby. Eyes, mouth, cheeks, being the main things most notice. Now those a little more familiar might point out some others but for lure purposes stick with those and you will be good. I sprayed on a mold release thick to create a stippling when the bait was molded for "scales". A two piece or one piece will also make a difference in the look. I included both a single sided pour that came from two piece mold made from the master. Realism to me isn't very important when it comes to fishing but I do it more so to differentiate what I pour. I think designing a good looking and functional bait is more about artistry and for me what I find custom tackle making to be about. With todays information and supplies anyone can heat up some plastic and pour into mass produced molds and get the same results. I made a goby bait several years ago and have used it off and on. I pour it both as a full round and then as a single sided. Single Master for Two piece

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/8509-new-molding-technique-maybe.html#post54713

I understand where some are coming from that they find it rude. I believe it is just different age groups. I find the lack of location about as "sneaky" as using "Lip Ripper", "Lead Head", etc. for a name. As far a big companies sneaking for ideas, please. They could put true name, city, etc... an no one would be any the wiser. Or these devious master minds could just use and alias Pete Smith, Possum Trot, KY........ I honestly just don't see how in earth it changes any of the advice one would give. Matter of fact it might just limit the information some would give. I guess I think we have enough rules as is don't need any more.

I honestly don't see what the big deal is with location. Does it honestly matter where they are? If I tell some guy that lives in Mongolia I used Devcon does it matter. I assume that if one is smart enough to find this site surely they can figure out to search devcon, etex, etc... order some or find a similar product locally. If not then may their lures find many snags. I find there to be much worse problems than someone putting they are from "down the street", "in my house", etc... for location. Just avoid these people if one doesn't like it.