Travis

Yep same shopping center plenty of stuff in the fly tying isle. There was a fly shop also in downtown Lafayette but I can't remember what street it was on or if it is still opened. I don't remember seeing it lately.

Sunfish have a laterally compressed body form. I would look into possibly going towards a jointed crankbait approach to "save" this lure after trying to trouble shoot some issues. If it doesn't work still would be a nice display piece. You had mentioned what other woods. I use basswood mainly, some paulownia, and balsa at times. Not really any good balsa to be found locally but you can head to Hobby Lobby to see their selection (more than Michael's). Basswood can be found at both but they want a premium for it.

I think several issues may be hampering you here. As mentioned hte dorsal and caudal fins may be acting as rudders and helping to stablilze the lure. After looking more closely at you're lure design it has many elements similar to a hydrodynamic keels in sail boats specifically a bulb keel and would possibly be adding additional stabilty to the lure. Instead of combating the lateral force associated with the sail it wold be combating any possible "swimming" efforts. I would put this one up on the shelf and repeat and go as simple as possible on the next one, no paint, just a few coats of poly or something so it can be reworked as needed. Get the action down and then finish it out.

Definitely go with a gallon of plastic. I forgot how much plastic it too to pour them that size. I have a mold I made to pour a similar bait except with a tail and it goes thru the plastic quick. I went ahead and used durhams rock puddy but if you can get them done in aluminum then go for it.

Detail definely sells lures I could't agree more. I just think if details were the real difference then all the chinese knock off cranks would be the hottest baits out there. Photo baits would dominate, etc..

Fancy paint schemes/details are for anglers in my opinion but then I take the approach that a fish isn't (not always I am afraid) the smartest thing on the lake that day. Detailed paint schemes give anglers the ultimate why a fish didn't bite my lure excuse. Anglers have to defend paint scheme or except the fact that it was their inferior skills. Now usually someone will chuck in "it gives them confidence" and well if you need that crutch then take it. Confidence never caught a fish and never will. Developement of ones skills and understanding of ones target species catches fish. Paint baits and add as much detail to make yourself and others happy but I don't think it makes much difference to the fish unless it is the first full moon, after the first mayfly hatch, during power generation on a reservoir then of course purple ghost shad will slay them (as long as coffee scent is sprayed on the bait first).

I would be looking at the fiberglass resin as the main culprit. Since you mentioned the bait was soft we know a reaction has occured and with most "foams" solvents are going to be your culprit. I will assume youre bait was sealed by the fiberglass resin so the rustoleum product would have no effect. I always stay away from solvent (non water based) products with foamies or take the time (gulp slow down on making a bait) to make sure that it is really dry. You might be surprised to see how long it can take to really dry some products especially when we start to layer. Take a look at the organic solvents contained in the products you used and then look at the compatibility with the 16 lb foam and you will likely find the answer to your problems.

Try it and see how you like it. Many designs over the years have included soft plastic craws, leather, rubber, skirt material, foam claws, etc..... See how you like your design and how it stacks up to similar bait without claws. That is one of the fun parts about making lures trying out new things. Always interesting concept I know the Moonlight and Paw Paw craw was always one of the "old" lures that I thought looked neat. I have a Paw Paw Crawfish but legs and claws are long gone. I believe research articles indicate that bass show stronger predation on clawless craws (last time I collected craws I did to!!). I think berkley scientists came to the same conclussion when trying to design a super craw. I think they were disappointed to find a boring hunk of plastic elicited the most strikes. I did have a paper somewhere that suggested that it was also dependent upon size of the bass with larger bass being less intimidated but haven't been able to locate it. I like the skirt concept or other permanent styles better. As much as I get cranks snagged temporarily on stuff soft pastics would be a constant reattachment issue. I have only messed with a few and most of my concerns were with the action of the crank being deadened, but am sure could be worked around. I had a guy want a craw done like the one below with foamy claws so they would rise. Not for sure what would happen to the action.

Two piece is always doable. I am sure the tail is thick enough that one could pour in POP or RTV if one was so inclined. I pour some magnum grubs with large tails in two piece RTV molds with no problem.

I would recommend just making a plaster of paris, durham's rock puddy, etc... mold of these style baits. Easy and simple and the detail usually is large enough to pick up no problem.

After positioning my thru wire it doesn't move. I then fill one half of the mold and then place the second half of the mold making sure the "keys" match up. At this point I turn the mold upright and lightly clamp. The foam of course settles to the bottom and then will expand filling the void.

You are going to have to add hardner (several tablespoons for 4 ounces of plastic) or maybe cook the heck out of it before you will get it to the right consistency. Best bet is to order additonal plastic.

I usually lightly clamp my molds between 1/4 pices of ply, or 1/8 hardboard. As far as as hook hanger. I use a single finish nail rounded over, no sharp edges when I cast the mold so I end up with a hole to insert the pin into it. If vented properly little pressure is needed and flashing will be virtually non existant.

No need.

I thought I recalled seeing some of these modified cups right after I signed up. I think glass was used as the divider and JB welded in place.

Several have had this gassing problem. I haven't observed it execept in a couple of my first two baits and chalked it up to poor preperation, I had pin holes exposed. I try for essentially just to have to cut the fill and vent holes. Minimal flash, usually flakes off with my finger nail. Wipe down with alcohol and then good to go. I have placed foamies out into the sun to try to get them to blister and didn't have any do so. I typically however attempt to mold a stash of baits and set them aside and work with older casts just to be safe due to the experience of some.

Anchor Hocking, is Oneida's brand of measuring cup. The pour spout has a slightly sharper pour spout and the main part to me is that the pour spout isn't as and seems to allow a smoother consitent flow of plastic. Overall not much difference.

How about bondo body filler. It seems to work up rather easily the times I have messed with it with my drill press and cross-sliding vise. Milled slots and stuff easily and cleanly and is relatively cheap.

Wood master, seal, and finish then make the RTV mold is the way to go for ease of use. I have used bondo, pop, durhams, etc... for the molds and they work fine if as mentioned good release agent used. The trick was to demold early, if the foamie is allowed to expand to its fullest and cure and then it almost locks itself into the mold. Even in cleanly shaped/plain lures, with details (especially undercuts) you can really lock the bait in. RTV is just so easy to demold from that it makes it very easy to just pop the bait right out.

I think it would be easiest and quicker to make the traditional two part RTV mold and place the "guts" in and cast the complete lure than generate multiple halves. I say this because from my experience foamies will change slightly in shape when removed from the molds. I would not want to attempt to match up halves and more importantly the molded in rattle chamber sections. I believe it will be easier and quicker going with a one piece construction but look very forward to seeing how they turn out if you go with the two part method.

Sure it can be done but why not just mold it all as a one piece with the thru wire construction?

Thanks guys for the compliments. I enjoy using my airbrush but for some reason don't manage to finish many baits (I end up with a lot of primed cranks). I was showng the two ways I put details on baits. I am a complete novice when it comes to airbrushing so don't put too much weight on how I do it. I think I may have painted 20 baits this last year. I have used tape before in the past and found that as long as you lightly score along the tape line with a sharp blade it pulls clean. It takes a light hand. Just fnd what works for you and look at the gallery to observe some guys techniqes. I look to see how some guys blend their colors, choose colors, layering of colors, use of highlights, etc... Most importantly relate it to your ability.

About anything can be used. Frisket, ceral boxes, note cards, etc... I usualy hold the stencil off the bait anyway to get a little fading of the detail. I think I use note/recipe card stock the most. Seems to always be handy and I am not too concerned about repeating the exact thing. A recipe card or thin cardboard works fine as long as one doesn't soak it and will last for a lot of baits. The other option is to make the bait with the detail and highlight these areas. I typically use a fine brush and just line the crevices with watered down paint. A lot of guys here can really do some fine work with the airbrush. Details sprayed using recipe card stencil: Brushed on with watered down paint:

I am by no means one of the safety patrol but I would avoid "smelling" any of them. I work everyday around solvents and am amazed with the high rate of respiratory problems, skin disorders, headaches, and various other problems that my "educated" coworkers live with. Long term exposure can casue additional issues. Cancers associated with mouth, throat, nasal passages, lungs, emphasemia, asthma, etc.... all seem to be a negative in my view point. I don't pour unless I am vented. To look for a less smelly plastic is not reducing exposure. Set up some sort of ventilation even if it is a box fan in the window with the heating source in front of it. Typically by product of heating are carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, the catch all phrase various hydrocarbons, and hydrogen choride. Add in colorants, stabilizers, softners, hardners, glitters, scents, salt, etc.. plus heating what additional reactions may be generating products that one shouldn't want to inhale. If I recall reading on this site or may have been yahoo chat with some of the guys several have experienced headaches, nose bleeds, sore throats, rashes, dermititis, and other ailments (I don't rember who but someone told me they had blurred vision after long pouring sessions).

I have both a dropshot fluke style bait and 3 inch or so drop shot bait that I have poured in the past. Not exactly the color you asked but this is my drop shot.