Travis

Looking good. Did you use a nail set for the lateral line?

Go with the bandsaw. Most everyone I know that makes lures also dabbles in woodworking. A bandsaw will be a great addition. A scroll saw is also fun to have but hold off until you find one on clearance or decide to take up intarsia.

Although it looked sealed it wasn't. The balsa baits I have made I did the following. I like to thin the devcon (5 min) with acetone and then brush it on. It soaks in quick and I will repeat. Then I wait for about ten minutes and then sand lightly and coat with devcon. Usually don't get any bubbles at this point.

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I saw that on ebay it does look good. I may have to have one similar to that made up at some point. I have been pleased with all the aluminum molds I have. Most of mine have been from Del but have some of Bob and a few other guys. All have been great products.

I wasn't all that impressed with them either. They do work but I find that they have to be worked faster and with heavy weights to be worth much. I essentially use them as a reaction bait and nearly wake them over grass and along weed edges. I haven't drop-shot the rig but not a big fan of all that plastic for dropshot reasons. I caught a lot of stripers using them on 1 ounce jig heads below tailraces also. They are an easy bait to mold if one doesn't mind doing it themselves.

I am making the molds from durhams rock puddy. Any molding material would likely be just fine. I could see the aluminum be problems unless you preheated the mold or the flappers were machined thicker. The plastic would cool too quick in those areas and incomplete pours would be the norm. The molds I made turn out baits just fine. I didn't think they would work as well as they did or I would have taken more care when making them. I got it wrong it was a three cavity mold not four. I didn't even mess with keys to line this one up. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/IM000168.jpg

Looks good. I am surprised at that more guys don't pour them two sided. I ended up just cutting vents at the flapper tip and they easily pour with the mold assembled. Not a bad bait to mold either. I am going to spend more time on the next molds and add some additional cavities. I made a 4 cavity 4.2 and 6 cavity smallie.

I have the same problems with indentions on my frog mold, but it works out for the best. Now I will have to modify the master to incorporate the dent. I was telling Lapala the other night that the dent always occurs in the throat of the bait. It ends up creating a "bill" and the frog will dive under the water slightly. It also creates a pivot point helping the hook drive upwards. Now I can't wait to fish some cat tails and pads.

I am fairly certain it is a flat sided bait. Most everyone is pouring the flat side from what I come across. I have been told that you can get the two piece also but will have to ask for that one. They really aren't than hard to mold. Durhams does just fine for a two piece if care is taken during the molding process. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/DIY2piece.jpg

I don't thin devcon for bait applications either. A blow dryer is handy to add some working time. I do thin to coat my soft plastic molds. I use 100 percent acetone.

If using the plastic dip I have found a few thing to help at times. The bait can be warmed in an oven then dipped. As it cools it often will "suck" in the dip. You can dip baits longer also, and then sand when it hasn't quite set up. This ends up "plugging" any holes during the process. A second dip is required. I also have a jar I made to dip baits in and apply a week vacuum few concerns using this method, volatiles and glass jar implosion. Finally you can take some wood puddy and smear it along the surface of the lure then wipe with damp cloth. This ends up filling any voids also. I seem to see more air bubbles depending upon the mold release I use and the mold. RTV molds almost get a perfect sking everytime. With other molds I have used vasoline, cornstarch, and floor or car wax. I think a light brushing of vasoline followed by powdering of cornstarch works best for me.

Bondo body filler works fine for making molds. Easy to do and quick. Best part it is really easy to work with. I have made "several" molds from it. Two piece molds are no problem either. Matter of fact they come out better than durhams or plaster. They do need to be sealed with devcon. Forget molding in the hook slot. easier to fill slot with clay, and cast the mold as if the body was going to be solid. Now go back and drill series of holes or if you have milling vice and drill press put a slot in the base and glue in a thin wood strip or series of skewers. Then go back and seal with devcon as usual. Unless you decide to make the hook slot wider most of the time I find them to be to "brittle" to cast using durhams or paris. Now RTV is another option it will do just fine.

I pour something very similar. I skipped the forked tail and added a small paddle tail. Also have some small solid body tubes that work great also (picture in photo section). http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/supports023.jpg

I am using the US Composites stuff also. I didn't notice any crystallization in my product, but I didn't look very closely. I do know that around the cap it had defineltly crystallized, I thought I was going to have to cut the top off but that was material left around the cap. Do you use both caps once you opened it. I always pushed the metal plug back into the opening and then the final cap. I think I will just use it all up as soon as possible and buy some fresh stuff. I like the concept of using it all up in three weeks, now I just will have to sell my wife on the concept.

Hey Husky, What problems do you encounter with the foam after the time period. I have been using my 16 pound foam for over a year since I opened it (ok hate to admit that). At first I thought it took a little longer before it began to expand but as soon as they foam warmed, it had been outside in my unheated shop, all seemed normal. I poured these last month and they turned out just fine. The sad part is the cranks are still in the same state. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/flats2.jpg

Looks good. Glad you posted it gave me a kick in the rear. I had began on a frog some time ago and had ended up dropping the "work in progress" behind my workbench. Well I dug it out after seeing your post on the frog. I was going to mold a live frog also but then decided I would first go ahead and carve one (winter is great). Have to finish up the legs and feet then add some detail. Hopefully get a chance to mold it this weekend. Five inches long, two inches wide between the knees. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/Frog.jpg

Thanks for the laughs guys.

http://www.gopresto.com/downloads/instructions/06000.pdf?PHPSESSID=69e8eeb1687612968466f3809c14407d This is the one I was looking at last year. Not for sure about heating element location however when it comes to drilling. Anyone used htis one yet. Around 30 dollars and temperature control. Appears to be similar or same one from the ebay link.

Yikes, possible can of worms! May be easier to define what we don't think of as custom. Custom as meeting a clients specifics, custom as in quality, custom as not being mass produced, custom as meaning unique, custom meaning hand made, custom as in "Tom" doesn't have this? To me all the above and then some. To me I think a truly custom lure as meaning made by an individual from the ground up exhibiting high standards, quality, workmanship, and performance. I think of handmade for the most part. If done correctly should represent the highest obtainable quality and will specifically meet the intended purpose. Not many ever reach this. They may meet a few of the criteria but not all. I know I haven't and have a long way to go. To me a custom lure can't just be made by reading some tutorials and copying a bait. This gets one started in the right direction but skill, time, and understanding are what is going to get someone making a custom bait by my definition. Now like most custom things. Things less than custom will work just as fine but will meet the use of the individual. Custom cabinetry? My mass produced wood cabinets are 20 plus years old and still do a fine job holding my dishes .

Another option may be this set up for paint and sealing work I am sure it has it limitations but did just fine for a smaller 1.5 oz bait. I forget the gauge wire it is. It is the vinyl covered stuff. Bend a form slightly shorter than overall lure lenght. Strip the vinyl of the end of wire then feed throught the front line attachement or temporary one and back hook attachment. Can be bent slightly different for various placement. Fits snug and doesn't wobble. Can clamp the wire onto the line and hook attachment eyes if needed. I used for a swim bait last time with no problems. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/holder.jpg

I don't find spacing all that import most of the time. I do smaller baits (bass cranks). But if you take into consideration the intended use of rotissere I think it answers the question. How balanced is chicken, roast, etc. when you stab it on. I know I try to get it about equal but am sure more than a few ounce difference. I just went and fastened an 8 inch crescent wrench to an alligator clip and rotated it lengthwise on my wheel, it was ok, but that is an extreme. A good solid base for you wheel would be also a plus. If you are concerned you can always make some counter weight set ups. Just thread some lead sinkers onto wire and clamp on other side. My rotissiere came with an attachment bracket for the other end. I mounted this onto a 2x4. Could always just drill hole through the 2x4 and pass rod through it and then snug the "chuck" up to the 2x4 to keep the rod from backing out of the motor.

Depending on lip shape it can be used to lock the lure in place. On one of the wood paddles use a dremel to shape out indentation for the lip to sit in. On the top portion make small space for the line tie, if needed. Or use the paddle concept and coat with Plastic dip stuff or pad paddles with rubber bands, portions of silicon pot holder, etc..... I have been looking at using wood cloths pins with a strip of rubber glued on the contact points to hold the lips for my bass cranks.

Durhams rock puddy is the way to go. You can make a lot of molds from one container (7 dollars). Some grubs are in my to do pile in the shop right now.

Preheat molds, heat plastic as hot as you can without going too far, and that should help out most problems. Also the more you do it the quicker you will get and that helps out a lot.