LedHed

Component System Inc. and Pro Tec are the same. Think the math is right… Average price of $5/2oz = $2.50/oz ($40/lb) $14/lb = $.88/oz save 65% @ 2oz Average price of $5/1.5oz = $3.33/oz ($53.33/lb) $18.50/lb = $1.16/oz save 53.75% @ 2oz $18.50/lb = $1.16/oz save 65.31% @ 1.5oz $20.50/lb = $1.28/oz save 48.75% @ 2oz $20.50/lb = $1.28/oz save 61.56% @ 1.5oz $23.00/lb = $1.44/oz save 42.50% @ 2oz $23.00/lb = $1.44/oz save 56.87% @ 1.5oz Some Pro-Tec jars come in 2oz or 1.5oz jars.

psv These are the ones at Barlow's 453015-110V (IV holds up to 4lbs.) or 453039 (4-20 holds up to 20lbs.). Sixgun Another advantage to the pots is that it accelerates the process. You can find pots on ebay and parts (heating elements) are available. "I'm not doing large volume. Just a hundred or so for myself and friends." That's how it starts................................. Next thing you know - it's just one more mold and I'll quit. Or - I don't need to pour, I can quit anytime I want to.

Sixgun "Bite the bullet" - buy a bottom pour. Get the Lee IV for small stuff or the 4-20 for big stuff. You pour 50 or 60 jigs with it - almost pays for itself. Way less problems...

thill ”How fast does the oven reach 350* after you fill it with jigs?” How big are the jigs, what kind of temp control, and type oven??? ”How many jigs can you fit in the oven at one time?” How big are the jigs and type oven??? ”Why do so many people say not to use a regular oven?” Do not bring lead into your kitchen – especially if you have children. Refer to the Do-It web site or their pamphlet and read safety. During the curing process, all PP release (off) gas and the residual gas collects in the curing chamber. The problem is when you reheat the oven at a higher temp (i.e. for cooking) the residue is re-released into the oven. I think Columbia Coatings might have the info posted on their web site – it is in the safety section of their manual. There was a previous post describing the use of a deep cake pan with threaded rods to hang jigs on – pretty sure there were pics included. It’s something you might want to try. If you have two – you can be loading one while one is curing. Used ovens are cheap – even new ones. Get the best one you can afford – it’s a business investment. They make some good size ones that can handle the volume you are talking about. Be safe

$30!!! - Great idea and a great deal.

Good stuff - like the dragon fly

Pete It's So California. Chuck is a site sponser and his link is on the right side of the page underneath the search forms feature.

I got some of hawnjigs lead free UL jigs and just finish tying up 2 dozen last night. Down side to the lead free is you can't powder paint it. Had to use fingernail polish which worked out really well.

Cadman Don't think we are the only two that it's happen to....

Pete I don't have a source - try a PM to hawnjigs he should be able to help you on this one.

UG Take a basic fly tying class is probably the easiest and best way to really get into tying jigs. You will learn knots, techniques, and all about materials and their characteristics. If you can tie a wooly bugger – you can tie any kind of jig (IMO). You want to do fnf jigs – learn to tie streamers. Look up a local fly shop and give them a buzz – I’m sure they will hook you up. Out here Bass Pro offer classes. An alternative to chenille, much easier to tie off, is dubbing. Or peafowl hurl - a real favorite. I like using the stuff from around the eye, real buggy green with a lot of iridescence. Dubbing technique is pretty easy and is the tyers choice – loop, spin, wax, no wax…. There are a lot of new and different materials (crystal flash) used in both dubbing and chenille.

fishologist Lead, because of its dense molecular structure, doesn’t absorb radioactivity. That is why it’s used for shielding or containing radioactive materials. The lead is about as pure as your going to find - and that is the reason everyone wants it.

Welcome Uncle Grump This is a method I use for chenille; To tie on chenille – strip off a ¼” of the fluff and tie the exposed thread (tag) to the shank of the hook. Wrap thread forward to the hook eye or jig head (whatever you are tying). Wrap your chenille, around the hook, forward to the thread. To finish the tie - wrap the thread over the chenille twice and then once under the chenille then tie a half hitch. Cut the chenille leaving a 1/8” tag. Clean off the fluff up to the double wrap, over wrap the tag end with your thread, and whip finish. This method leaves a cleaner – flatter tie off. Before you whip finish – try tying in a wet hackle (big plus for added action) around the neck. Hope it makes sense..

That is the kind of lead you want - wouldn't pay more than $1/lb. McMaster Carr sells super soft for ~$3/lb.

I’ve found two at a local swap meet (flea market), different desk models, for $5 each! One mans trash – another mans treasure…

If you are going to leave lead (I leave my pots almost full) in your pot – do not pour until your lead is completely melted. Dislodge the plunger – while the pot is heating up, it doesn’t reseat, you have a big problem. When the pot is hot, I try to keep an ingot mold (Hilt’s or Lee has good ones with handles) under the nozzle when ever the pot is idle.

Pete LOL - It's falling out faster than I can cut it now. Still have a pony tail from years back. I like the calf tail also and rabbit fur.

Brian I use Columbia Coatings and pro-tec. I think CC is the cheapest but a little harder to work with. Can't really tell you how it works in FBs - I do alot of mixing and more brush painting now. Have seen some stuff on eBay that looks like something to try - just don't have time.