LedHed

One problem with the posted cure times by different manufactures is the accuracy of the temperature monitoring devices that they are using to what you use. They may be using a device that is ± 1°C and you may be using a device that is only capable of ± 5°C accuracy. That is a potential of a 12°C delta. They could be telling you to cure at 325°C for 20 min. and you could be curing at 332°F (or worse) – causing your paint to come out too brittle. Also the location of your temperature sensing device is critical. The heating characteristics of your electric oven (on/off control opposed to modulated control) could be another source of problems. You set it at 315 and it might go as high as 325 before it cuts out and as low as 300 before it comes back on. I use a type T thermocouple placed in the center of a toaster oven and usually cure ~310 to 325°C for 20 + minutes. I don’t normally do single colors and I use various manufactures for my paint (and mix paint as well) so it would be difficult to standardize or create a cure table. Invest in an accurate temperature sensing device (a real good thermometer) and start documenting your cure times. Unfortunately there isn’t a quick fix and you will have to experiment. Go low and slow. I use the Rockwall hardness test to validate my cure times.

TwoBits

Ghost You might want to try using brushes or

You might be overheating your jigs prior to dipping them. Dripping is usually attributed to a thick coat of paint (drip has to come from somewhere). Your temperature control or monitoring device, for the cure process, might be inaccurate. This could cause too high of temperature or too much cycling of your chamber. Make sure your temp monitor is reasonably accurate. Try lowering your cure temp and extending the time. Check out the word search feature on this site.

BLT I don

David Got some results from a similar post by ssrmr2 - not sure if you have seen it. Chris was kind enough to share his expertise and there is a baseline to try for a color formula. Now to get busy.................

i_fish Get use to it. Try special ordering VMC hooks from Stamina. If they feel like it - that might do it. Don't hold your breathe waiting for a response to your emails.

Thnx again for all the info Chris.

Chris Thnx for the info. How about the formula for your green that you use in your "green chovie"?

Outstanding jigs

I'm looking for the same color. Need a technique for adding an orange egg sac also. Anybody??? Chris???

sagacious Great tip. Can you post some pics of your jigs?

Benjamin Great info and a great web site. On your powder paint page, under charging tips; incandescent is the least effective for charging phosphorus. Also, a really good “charger” is a light flash used for photography.

Not too much in So Cal (Riverside) - but Bass Pro is coming to Ontario. Mostly order from LC, haven't had any problems with them. Got some saltwater formula palstic from them that I haven't tried yet. Price was right - plus I got a free one pint sample from them also. Have a bunch of the swimbait molds. Try a word search for the injecting - has been covered before.

Check out Columbia Coatings prismatic additive. Looks great with pearl white. Mixed with mirror black and overcoated with their illusion paint gives a real deep sparkle effect.

David Excellent info

bassman843

Will be pouring LC

Anyone have a smelt green formula for saltwater swimbaits?

Ghost Welcome aboard. You can

Check out these books; Angler

"Am I loosing my mind?" probably not - think someone earlier, on another thread, had mentioned that Pro-tec had been bought out.

Try using the wheel weights like swede has suggested