LedHed

Hola CJ, You might be interested in Do-It's new shad mold. I got the 6oz/4oz model. Looks pretty good for Cali water. Haven't tried yet - season is still early. Had to have some machine work on it - they list a CC 600 wire form so I got a 100 to find out that they don't fit in either cavity. So instead of ordering the 400 (next size down) I had a friend machine the mold so the 600 would fit. If it rains, like it is right now, this weekend - I'll be pouring.... Was down at BOLA last month and the locals were launching some odd looking stuff that was really working out on the homegaurd YTs. Got my first goldspotted bass on a blue and white. Caught a real nice 8lber but it was on bait

Tubeman, Are the Rite Hete, Sta-Warm Electric and Wenesco pots, that you mentioned in this post, bottom feed? Where can you purchase these pots? I have also purchased two Lee plastic pots and have only tried using one once and wasn't real thrilled.

Little Sal, Hope my comment "Knock offs are functional but you get what you pay for" didn't offend. It' not really a fair statement - when I started tying I couldn't afford even mid range priced vises. So I ended up getting a "knock off" and tied on it for years. Had to put a brass washer on where the locking cam came into contact with the vise so I wouldn't wear out the cam. I still have it and every once in awhile I shake off the dust and throw on a hook. Good point (no pun intended) on the type of heads - Midge and Standard. My rotary is a midge and my stationary is a standard. BTW - have a Nor-vise would like to get rid of, trade, sell ...........

Hola Fishing Amigos, Have two formulas that might be of interest to some members... For determining the weight of a fish: (girth x girth) / length = Lbs. Not a "dead on calculation" but it gets you in the ballpark. This formula is used to determine how much line (that is not specd' for the reel) you can put on that reel. This can help when you are trying to calculate your "top shot" capacity or you want to put on heavier/lighter line on a reel: (old line weight x new line weight) x old capacity = new capacity

Maze, Could you post a picture of the braided lead? What is the diameter? Thanx

Markell - good post Richoc - my bad, "pure" was implying soft and/or clean lead. I am also interested in your recipe. Also, do you know the alloy compostion of "wiping solder"? Thanx

Pure lead is really malleable (even after a couple of re-melts) and it would be tough to get it to crystalize (if that is the problem that Markell was talking about). It is possible to harden lead by remelting it enough and get it to crystalize. All the slag (or contaminates) in the melted lead don't float to the surface. These observations are made using a Lee pot. After you skim your pot - (use caution) take a screwdriver or a long handled spoon and scrape the sides of the pot, the stem, and around the spout and you will see more slag (or contaminates) float up.

Regal vices are probably one of the best vises out there. Not cheap but they are not expensive either. I own two - one rotary and one stationary and have only praises for both. Knock offs are functional but you get what you pay for.....................

If it "crumbled" it sounds like slag. Are you pouring out of a Lee pot? Might of had some "clingons" around your spout.....

Tried the #8 premium black nickle. Nice sharp hook but the quality control is lacking. Ordered a 1000, poured about 150. I found 13 hooks that were useless. That's not good math considering with VMC, Mustad, or Eagle Claw your lucky if you see 1 reject out of 100. Really like the VMC. Haven't fished the Sohumi yet.

VMC has an O'Shaughnessy listed as bronze in the Stamina catalog. They will "special" order the hook in PS (perma steel) in the 100pk and the 1000pk. I like them because of the point and they seem to be strong enough....... They are more expensive then Eagle Claw but not as much as Gamakatsu or Owner.

Hardly use the hook size that Do-It recommends - down side to that is the mold will have to be modified. You will probably have to remove the center pin that you place the eye of the hook on the mold. I use a Dremel unless it's big work - then I have a buddy that is a machinest. Like everybody says - do a little bit at a time. Once you remove this aligning pin (depending on which style and manuacturer of hooks you use) the hook can float around in the cavity when the mold is closed. This can cause mis-pours, eye of the hook can end up in the head of the jig, eye of the hook can ride to high causing a pitch in the angle of the hook. Don't think that would be too much of a problem with 60 degree hooks but you can really notice it with 90's. So, only remove enough of the aligning pin so you can place a hook in the cavity and get a good seal on your mold. Another modification you might have to deal with is where the hook point rests in the mold. You will probably have to remove some metal there as well. Mustad, Eagle Claw, and VMC have the O'Shaunghnessy style hook which is longer and has a smaller gap. I order mine from Stamina in the PS (it's a special order). Have you thought about the "Barbarian"? I think it was designed for trailers. I pour with them because they look like they should work. Owner has the Deep Throat.