jigmeister

I was looking at this product at the Delmart web site but was wondering if anyone has any experience pouring with this stuff? Is this an additive like hardener/softener just a super floating plastic mixture. Does it contain those "micro-spheres" for the floatation? And lastly will softener work with super floater plastic? With all the frog/toad pouring going on these days someone has the answer ........Thanks- jigmeister

Congrats on your catch!!! With a tongue hooked bass you are better off to leave the hook in and cut the hook down so the fish can still feed and let the hook dissolve .

Hey Tator thanks for the help!

anyone have experience with copying this color? I am terrible at painting and color matching especially so any help would be appreciated. Thanks - Jigmeister

With the good (US made) flat strand living rubber being hard to come by I have been contemplating attempting to dye some to get the colors I want . I have a bunch of flat strand ,fine , purple rubber that I would like to turn brown . I know from pouring worms that you can combine black and orange coloring to get brown but not sure about turning purple to brown . Anybody have any experience in this dept. ? Thanks -Jigmeister

Go to any autoparts store and get the Red colored hi-temp RTV sealant . It has a continueous temperature rating of around 600 degrees and will be easy to clean out of the mold cavity when you're done.

Here is a link to the foil I use . It already has the adhesive on it and is much thinner than the alum. duct tape many use. It comes in gold and silver and is very bright (shiny) Good luck -Ken http://www.happycraftnsmosaicsupplies.com/MosaicGemTiles.html

Bama Bass , You need a white base coat under the irridescent to make it show up properly so try that - Jigmeister

I have alway dreamed of having my very own test tank set up for experimenting with lure designs . OK actually I'm getting a swimming pool installed and the wife and daughter won't be in it all the time so I can try out some lure ideas . maybe some day I can get a digital video camera and post some movie clips of lures I've made (that would be cool) . My new cell phone will do some video clips so maybe that will would work (I'll have to ask my teenaged daughter to see cause I don't know yet ?) Got a few new lures I have been dreaming of making so once I get the yard put back together we'll see what happens................Jigmeister

The original jitterbug has an aluminum lip . Perhaps the stainless lip is too heavy causing the sinking to occur . You could try making the body bigger for more floatation ?

if you check out Gary Yamamoto's web site he makes a flippin jig head with an offest Gamakatsu hook poured in . I found some jigs in the bargain bin at a local tackle store a couple of years back with the same basic design as the yamamoto head . I liked the design alot and wanted more . upon searching the internet to buy more found out they were no longer being produced .

is that the "round" stranded rubber or did he start getting the flat stranded rubber made in "China" ?

Anybody know where I can find this stuff for sale ? I looked at BPS but it doesn't look like they carry it anymore . I tried the spike it web site but they want $8 shipping on a small 1/2 oz bottle Thanks Jigmeister

I saw Cabelas has a 4 oz. model for marinate injecting . Nickel plated brass and $25 .

oops

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vibrating-blade-converts-jigs-to-chatter-lures-bait_W0QQitemZ7227784487QQcategoryZ31690QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have the mold set up to pour with the sprue end at the top with the mold sitting verticle . as the plastic is slowly poured in the the air escapes by rising upward as it is displaced by the plastic . The first prototype I made was made of hand shaped balsa that I coated with devcon to seal after shaping . I wasn't happy with the outcome with that one so I had my buddy make the next proto out of delrin plastic since thats what he had available . I coated that one with epoxy to eliminate the machining marks

I came up with this idea a while back and puchased some silicone mold making agent and finally got around to trying it out . I had a friend with a lathe turn me down a prototype Senko type bait with no rings or segments (smooth tapered sides) and a cone shaped sprue on the end sized to fit into a piece of PVC pipe 3/4" . I put the proto-type bait master in the PVC pipe tail up and poured the silicone in . After setting up I de-molded the master from the silicone which took more than time than I anticipated . I used dish soap to lubricate the master and was finally able to pull it out of the new mold . It came out a perfect duplicate . Since it worked I am planning on making a rack to hold several of these single round molds in a row for fast pouring . Probably easier just to buy one of Dels molds for stiks but if you want a custom full round mold of your own design this works - Jigmeister

most hardware stores will carry small rolls of copper,brass, and annealed steel (bale'n wire) in various guage sizes . I was tying vast amounts of jigs the pevious two years and needed to step up tying speed . I machined out one side of my jig mold to accept a 4" piece of black annealed steel wire that was then molded into the jighead . Having the wire anchored in the head made tying jigs much easier . Hold the rubber strips on with one hand ,make a couple wraps pulling tightly on wire using pliers with the other hand, and snip off tag end of wire . The wire holds firm and even though its steel wire it doesn't rust . I'll never go back to thread again!

Short answer is " NO" Tungsten has an extremely hi melting point and I think has to be forged rather than poured . Somebody was selling tungsten powder that could be mixed with epoxy as a binder for making jigheads

whats the blade thickness on those things - looks to be brass?

I use clear polyester casting resin so you can clearly see the bait on the bottom after the resin is poured into the mold . After pouring in inspect the bait and look for trapped air bubbles. I like to use a fine paint brush to lightly brush the bubble(s) off the bait and up towards the surface . usually once you get the bubble going it will float up to the surface but if not help it along with the brush . I have made a few zipper molds that came out perfect using this method..............hope this helps

Jason , If you want a small amount to try out go to a music store and buy a single guitar string ( a "B" string in .013 gauge.) It will be nickle plated wire so it won't rust

I tried it and once and it didn't turn out very well . I found some two part molding silicone for casting jewelry that looks easier so I was planning on trying it someday. Heres the link........ http://shorinternational.com/Rubber.htm

I guess the only way to know for sure would be to weigh a bait before and after epoxy coating with a high accuracy scale and compare . I have done the same thing with jerkbaits I wanted to suspend in the water between twitches. If they turned into slow sinkers after epoxy I would drill out a little lead until they the bait just slightly floated up then patch the hole with some more epoxy. You can always add "suspend dots" to a slow riser "floater" but if a bait is heavy and sinks you have to remove lead . I use a balance- beam powder scale since I had one for reloading already and be sure to keep notes for future referance. Good luck- Jigmeister