jigmeister

Jason , If you want a small amount to try out go to a music store and buy a single guitar string ( a "B" string in .013 gauge.) It will be nickle plated wire so it won't rust

I tried it and once and it didn't turn out very well . I found some two part molding silicone for casting jewelry that looks easier so I was planning on trying it someday. Heres the link........ http://shorinternational.com/Rubber.htm

I guess the only way to know for sure would be to weigh a bait before and after epoxy coating with a high accuracy scale and compare . I have done the same thing with jerkbaits I wanted to suspend in the water between twitches. If they turned into slow sinkers after epoxy I would drill out a little lead until they the bait just slightly floated up then patch the hole with some more epoxy. You can always add "suspend dots" to a slow riser "floater" but if a bait is heavy and sinks you have to remove lead . I use a balance- beam powder scale since I had one for reloading already and be sure to keep notes for future referance. Good luck- Jigmeister

I would say you should keep the weight directly under the front line tie or maybe just slightly forward of the belly hook hanger for best results. The axis point of the bait will be at the line tie and the further you move the ballast weight away from this pivot point the more it will tend to kill the action. You might be able to find a "cutaway" drawing of a similar vibration type bait for referance

Great job very impressive! Something I discovered to blend the edges of the belly and back when using spray cans is to use a sponge lightly dipped in the the same color spray paint and lightly tap in on the lure body to slowly apply paint so you can control how much is deposited. You can apply slowly drying between coats blending in until you get the desired effect. Keep up the good work -Ken

I have hade this happen too from using too much hardener (catylyst) and had some molds roll up on the edges during the heat of the summer that were perfectly flat when made . I have had good luck setting the warped molds out in direct sun light during the summer and clamping them between two pieces of wood with C-clamps . after they're warm just clamp down and let them cool and they will be flat again.

HMMM heres what I found http://www.paulowniawood.com/characteristics.htm

with a hard master the best thing to use would be 2 part silicone molding agent . The shrinkage is minimal and since its soft and flexable you'll be able to retrieve your master without damaging it . The down side its the most expensive method to use for making molds .

OK here is my fix for the same problem........I took a centering punch and and lightly "peened" the edges of the wire slot (at the head end and where it exits the top of the mold) to displace the metal into the slot so it would firmly hold the wire form in place while pouring. Haven't had to do this with hook slots but I'd imagine it will work for that too........

I am looking for someone to pour me a limited number of 4" brush hog type baits (for purchase) to try out for a particular application (10-20 baits) Maybe someone out there with a Delmart mold? I am wanting to try some light smoke with large silver flake but Zoom doesn't make that color. Any takers? thanks,Jigmeister

BorderBasser , I was the one who posted the idea about using a vacuum chamber made from a 5 gal bucket a couple of years back. It will either take vacuum or pressure to completely fill a two piece mold such as you describe. I came up with the process to make a copy of a "Madman" craw ( 2 piece mold with insert for hollow center) . It was about the hardest mold making experiment I had ever attempted . The vacuum method allowed me to completely fill the mold through stratigic placement of venting. I also tried using an automotive siphon gun (used for filling /extracting fluids form transmissions and rear ends) . Its like a big metal syringe of something like 20 oz. it has a threaded hole in one end for the hose fitting . I changed the original plastic hose bard fitting to a brass one . Heat your plastic ,put the hose barb fitting in and pull the handle back filling it up with hot plastic . Push the handle forward with the hose barb facing up till hot plastic just runs out to purge any air . Now place the hose barb into the sprue hole in the end of the mold(s) and inject the plastic. You should strive to expell all the hot plastic while hot to minimize clean up . Both ends unthread and come off for clean up. Either way you go its a pain to pour a 2 piece mold without expensive injection molding equipment but it is possible...........Jigmeister

since you're not contending with cold water temperatures you could try plexiglass . also fiberglass circuitboard ,aluminum or stainless steel plate will all work ..........

most of the craws out here where I live are actually transplanted Lousiana swamp craws that have taken over from the original native species. From trapping experiments I have reached the conclusion that most of the craws 3" and below are a green pumpkin color with some orange on the tips of the claws and a small amount on the legs as well . After they get bigger a reddish color "oxblood" or smoke with red flake matches them good in the adult red color phase. They are very adept at different color phases to match the local conditions with blues, black, reds,purplish ,and green shades posible hope this helps -jigmeister

finlander, I usually apply the foil in halves to each side of the bait leaving about a 1/4" gap on top of the back and also on the belly . Burnish the foil edges real good with a spoon to flatten out . I then take a small paint brush and paint the gap between the foil halves with a thin coat 2 ton Devcon epoxy just lapping over the foil edges . This fills in the gap so there is no foil edges and also anchors down the the foil so it cant lift up. Hope this helps -Jigmeister

I think Tap plastics sells a kind of polish like that for plastics

Thanks all for the great suggestions ! Looks like I've got to go buy some more supplies...........jigmeister

made a plug (douglas fir) primed with kilz ,outer coating of devcon . Outer coating got cracked from an impact and water soaked into the wood splitting the paint /epoxy all over. next attempt : made a plug (basswood this time) sealed the bare wood with devcon ,painted , then sealed the plug with outer layer of devcon over the paint. this one seems to be holding up great but I am still concerned if it gets a ding it could split . bought some boiled linseed oil to seal the lure body but after reading some comments about paint adhesion problems with linseed oil it has me wondering . I was planning on using the devcon as a final clear coat even with the linseed oil . Any comments or suggestions? Its just pretty frustrating putting all the time in creating a lure to have it split on you . maybe I should have stuck with making jigs and plastic worms ............Jigmeister

if you're tying bass fishing jigs with living rubber or deer hair you can go to wally world and pick up some nylon upholstry thread in black or brown . its thicker and stronger than other threads and you can really pull on it without breaking. I have been making so many jigs the last few years for some tournament fishing buddies of mine I modified my jig mold to pour a 4" piece of annealed black bailing wire into the jighead. this makes everything go much quicker without fooling with thread . put the living rubber on the collar,make a couple of wraps with the wire,snip off the extra wire and your done !

I have made a few molds out of Durhams and it does work but you have to make sure all the moisture is baked out or you'll end up with an eruption like a volcano out of the sprue hole after the hot lead goes in . Its good for making making some prototypes to test but not very durable . I am going to pick up some GE 2 part pourable hi-temp silicone (RTV #60)and try making a 2 part mold the same way as with the Durhams

They may be close in size but they are different hooks for sure . The Gami's may be sharper but the premium Mustad's are stonger and less prone to straighten out at the bend . Also the Mustad's point is more durable .

Overkill , Great job on this perplexing problem I think you have done it!!! I went surfing around the net after reading your post about the seat painting and found both the vinyl prep and adhesion promoter for sale at the same place and after reading the descriptions/uses it sure sounds like this is how the big guys are doing it . Of course you may be found dead with a big plastic trout in your mouth as a warning to others after this but great work :0)

polyester molds shrink slightly when setting up are very rigid once dry . If your original/model being copied is a hard material you will have a heck of a time prying it out of the cavity and will most likely destroy the master and or the new mold . 2 part Silicone molding material works well with hard material prototypes .

If you're aiming at pouring your own try using tin instead of lead . Cabela's sells a lightweight "resin " jighead with a big hook for swimbaits but I wasn't happy with them because the bait tends to roll over on the retrieve due to the light weight (but they look good)..........Jigmeister

Hmmm? mine seems to be getting the supplies I order in a timely fashion . As soon as I send in an order I come up with another idea and realize I should have included those items in the order I just sent . Stamina has the stuff but their service as of late seems a little spotty.

Joshua, You can copy (make a mold) of any swim bait easily if it has a flat side on it . Typically most swimbaits will be flat on the back . I think Lurecraft sells a mold like you're looking for if you don't want to make one . For a multi colored bait you just pour the lighter belly color in first and then gently pour the darker back color in over it . You don't want to wait too long or you can have problems with the two layers not bonding together well. As far as painting baits afterwards theres a big thread going on that one right now ..................good luck ,Jigmeister