bojon

Good job SWO.They look great!

Stick with it.I bet most on this forum went thru this learning curve.You can't have success without trying.Hang in there.

Happy New Year!!!!Good fishing to one and all.

Nice job!

Water based scents won't work with the oil based plastinol we use for lure making.Always think oil based scents when putting it in the melted plastic.Water base is ok for the cooled finished worms.I have used powdered dry shad,and coffee grinds mixed with safflour oil with success.I soaked the dry in the oil for days then drained the excess oil before putting it in my heated plastic.It worked,but was a lot of work.

Nova,I also pinch down the metel,but also clean these cheap brushes mostly because I forever seem to run out of them.Do they turn into wire coat hangers????? :(I always seem to have only one left.Go figure.

Great idea! I have used Legos,and they work fine,but you have to hide them from the kids if you plan on making another form in the future.Your idea sounds very practicle.

Alcohol.I also use it to clean my brushes.When cleaning a brush,finish with a dish detergent,and rinse well.

I have found that a gentle stirring will give good results.Keep the stirring rod in the epoxy and stir alot,but not a whipping action.It is easy to get air into the epoxy if you are too aggressive.

Happy Holidays to a great bunch of unselfish people!

I sell a 18 blade rotary cutter.This cutter is easy to use and of a type a lot of folks are using.This is one of many cutters,and my advise is check around to see what would work for you. kocron@comcast.net

Thanks for the nice comments.

I'm with Nova on this one.

If you send me your Email address I will send plans of the rotary cutter I use.It works very well.

NICE! They should work great.Good job on the color seperation.

Thanks to all!

A member want's to buy some of my tube making items,but I don't know what to charge,for the items because I don't know the postal rates (I ship post paid)or the dollar exchange for Canada. Any help?

When I heat the plastic in the micro wave,I do use a hobby stick to stir the plastic.There will be bubbles,but when you stir the plastic when it is in the pot(using the same stick)they vanish in a few seconds.I also leave the stick in the plastic to act as a heat sink.I haven't had a scorched batch,or a bubble in the thousands of tubes I have dipped for over 20 years.I instuct the many tube makers that have bought my DVD and Ebookto follow my adive,and have yet to hear of any problems.Only problems I have heard were by using craft store glitter,or remelts.Not the heating process.If there is anyone,who I have helped get started that has had a problem,I would very much like to hear from you all.

I have used liquid soap in the past.A thin film was all that was needed.It's been awhile,but I don't remember having any problems.This is what we used in high school art class.Long time ago.The last mold I made was about 15 years ago,and was for a special lead sinker for fast water.It worked:),and the sinker worked as planed.The mold was very dry,lead and moisture don't get along.Has anyone tried this soap?

Yes you can,but it seems to take forever to heat.It may be better to bring the plastic to temp in a microwave,then pour it in the pan.When using the pan to pour,be sure to keep the amount(volume) in the pan low.Too much plastic will make a mess.

Number one provide a good vent system.After that it's all down hill.I bought one of those white plastic tables to work from,it really looked nice.The drippings from the jugs of raw plastic really screwed up the surface.I would use steel.or wood to make your bench.I had one from Sears similar to the previous photo,and it was great.If you can afford it that would be a way to go.I now live in a apartment,and work from a card table,in my kitchen,with a gentle fan at my back,and using the stove vent.I can handle the noise by turning off my hearing aid.It works only fair,but I don't notice much fumes,so it does work.Not a recommended work station,it just happens to be what I have.

I sent a privite message.I won't let you hanging.I do have to go to the Doctor so there will be a delay.(FLU SHOT)

I will get to you within the hour with a series of photographs.You will find a lot of great help,from a lot of great guys on this site.They have been treating me just great for a long time.I hate to toot my horn,but the price of my ebook/dvd will help you make almost all of your decisions before you spend a lot of money.You will have to make your tubes the way you want them,that is the advantage of making your own.You can get all the help you need from the folks on this site.Consider youself lucky on finding this site,I know I am.

I still sell the 18 blade cutter,as well as a How to Ebook for horizontal dipping.I haven't been advertising.I don't know how to post photos on this site.I can send a attatchment to a Email.Sorry.I make nice tubes but I'm not too swift with computers.

Thanks guys!It was just a random thought,because I know that it would handle high heat,but we pour way below that threshold with our plastic,So I don't know what benifit it would have over pop.Years ago I would model a figure with ceramic clay,then pour a pop mold over it,followed by pouring into the cured mold,a china clay slurry.After a few minutes the slurry would leave a thin,or thick layer or clay that could be fired.It way fairly easy to get great detail.Agree with Nova that it would have to be reinforced,and probably wouldn't be worth the cost or trouble,but maybe someone might come up with a idea to put this into use,one way or other in our quest for new and better ways.