bojon

Like Delw said,you can use most anything and come up with a good tube.The only thing I found out that wouldn't work was uncoated wood(BUBBLES OF AIR),and pvc pipe(MELTED).I'm in the process of making rods from wood dowel coated with 2 ton epoxy.I'm going to dip six at a time horozontally,in 6 onces of plastic.Looks like a old garden rake.I never have trouble cutting my tube tails.I solved that twenty years ago.That doesn't mean I quit looking for different ways.I like the challenge of trying a new way of doing things.I usually like my plastic a bit cool,after heating it to the 350 degree range in the microwave,I set it on a warm hot plate in a small loaf pan.I even leave a wooden tounge depresser stirring stick in the dipping pan to act as a heat sink,it will blacken after a few pours,but protects the plastic from scorching.This stick was in the microwave during the heating process so it is dry.I can't even remember the last time I over heated the plastic to effect it away from clear.I worry that over heating would effect the strength of the plastic.I may be wrong.Anyone else know?

Agree that the new micro waves are junk.I have bought two in the last 4 years.The cheap one I use for plastics cost $29.95 from Wal Mart many years ago.Still works great.A bit small for kitchen use.A micro wave used to last almost forever.What's up??

I use aluminum rods with multiple dippings,with a cooling period, when I want a slighty thicker tube.When using #500 plastic they get thick,and a harder in the process.A quick fast dip is what I prefer.They seem to catch more fish,but tear up easy.I have used rods made of dowel covered with JB WELD.Worked great,but now I'm in the process of making Elmers,and 2 Ton epoxy covered wood dowels to use as dipping rods.I use Auminum,brass,steel,and wood covered with JB WELD.Good results with all.I like the idea of using the coated wood,because I find it easier to work with.I will let you all know how these new rods work as soon as I get to using them.

Dave,how do you make the hot pink.I have the hot pink dye what else.I fish ultra clear water for Smallmouth.

HA! HA!

Good job!I know it is not easy making a video.I wish I had this info years ago!Would have saved a lot of time,and plastic. Thank you.

Great job! You should see my first try.REALLY bad!!!

I use a microwave with the plastic in a Pyrex cup.I use a wooden hobby stick(tounge depresser)as a stirring rod.The stick is put into the plastic before it is put into the micro wave,and kept in the plastic thruout the heating process,stirring gently,every time it needs to be,right up to the time to pour into a pan.The plastic is poured down the stick into my dipping pan.There will be bubbles,but by GENTLY stirring,the bubbles will go away in less than a minute.I have NEVER had a bubble problem using this method.I have second dipped hundreds of tubes with a clear coat without a flaw(bubble). This is for tubes,but the gentle stirring should work for other operations.The stick must be dry.I use mine over,and over.

Years ago I wanted to do about the same thing on a very large shad I was making for Stripers in Tims Ford in Tenn.I poured the shad with the back up and about 3/4 to 1 inch wide.By taking a aluminum Rod that was made to look like a T with the wire handle suspended on the POP mold edge.This when cooled,and removed made a cavity that I filled with cork popper stock.It was then super glued shut.The belly was tapered to a rather thin profile.This was a about a foot long and 5 inches deep lure that I wanted to to fish like what nowdays is called a swim bait.Made one,hooked a large stripper,and the lure was totaled.For the time involved,and the amount of plastic used it was not a worthwhile project.Just one of the stupid things I've done over the years.

The arbor press,or a rubber mallot and some boxed blades should work great for the smaller tubes.I used a set of carpet blades with cardboard spacers for years.The blades were set in a wood box constucted using JB WELD.I tried epoxy,but the box failed.The cutter box works great but the rubber mallet will drive the people around you nuts.I will try to send a photo of what I'm talking about.Very economical and it will work great for your use.The rotary blades are 28mm diameter,and as stated above works best on larger tubes.Mine are mostly 2 1/2 to 3 inches,and now I live in a apartment,so I can't make the kind of noise I used to.The rotary is silent.Be sure to use a self healing mat to save your blades.

How do you delete the message?The message has nothing to do with fishing,or lure making.

I have,for many years, used Pam with my plastic pouring and tube dipping.I never saw that it affected the plastic in any way.Works great.I use the Garlic flavored,hoping that it would leave a scent on the lures.It is very mild to say the least.

I spray my cup with Pam,and then wipe it around with a small cloth.The remaining plastic slides right out and it also pours better.

My dentures would stick to the plastic! lol I know that scenic sand will work(HOBBY LOBBY),I was using it before there was a thing called Senko for more than twenty some years.I don't know what the Senko uses,but the fine sand will act like a Senko.

With my Astma I'm limited to using Acrilics,that use water as a solvent.You can buy a set,of 16 small pots, at Hobby Lobby for less than $4.00.As long as you give the paint job a final dip in clear,and handle them gently before dipping.My Son uses a airbrush,and Tamiya model paints.I have been painting my tubes,using,brush,Q tips,eye make up sponges,and even my finger tip.No great skill needed.My yellow perch paint job took 3 smallmouth in four casts,before the sudden wind stopped my test.

Tried a wood rod and it was full of moisture.I don't think Pam would seal it.Devcon and Elmers will.

The rods I made were somwhat rough.I didn't bother to sand very smooth.They did make a good tube though.I will try the Devcon,and Elmers before any more are made.They both would be smoother as soon as they are cured,and you shouldn't need any amount of sanding.I will let you know of my success with my next effort.

THANKS GUYS! Both soulitions are better. Devcon being self leveling,and the ease of application of Elmers.Both of these products were ignored by me.I thought the tempeture would be too high for both.Thanks again.I will put this info to good use.

I'm always looking for a better way,and may have found it,when it comes to dipping rods for tubes. I just finished tests on rods made of dowel,covered with JB Weld,then sanded smooth.The work as well as other rods I have used.Just think of the potential to come up with new shapes.The rods worked very well in the 1/4 x 3 inch size.Could tell no difference of the finished tubes that were dipped with aluminimum rods.The wood lends itself to easy handle attachment,and a large sizes could be made on a lathe.Just remember to lub the rodsvery well.I use Garlic Pam,but I'm sure other lubs will work just as well. Question----What might thin the JB Weld so it can be applied more smoothly???I'd like to use a brush.I have been using a tounge depresser. Anyone tried this???

For more info e-mail me at kocron@comcast.net .

Wow a micro torch.Never thougt of that and boy do I have a need to try it.

You might try LC olive powder for the back,with small gold and black.The belly white.I also tried to make this color and it looked fairly close.

You can get a nice micro wave at yard sales for almost nothing.If you use it carefully and vent,you can keep the oder down.Most of the time!

All my colors are added after my plastic is heated and the bubbles gone.I add my flouescent colors also after the plastic is heated.I only use Oil pastels for the Flourescent colors.Sick of the color transfer of the dyes.I like to keep what ever is left of a batch clear in the Pyrex so I can add more clear for another batch.I'm very consevative with my plastic.Always have been.The raw plastic is sure to go up soon because of the price of oil I would guess. I have dipped some two color tubes,using oil pastel Ochre color,that I made transparent to look like sand for the belly.Looked good.Just used a very small amount of the stick.

Agree with Nova. Sounds like salt could be the problem,or maybe you can use less than a drop of dye.Stir.to remove the bubbles,and don't overheat.Keep us posted.