bojon

Good idea about the cloth dye.Sounds like something I'd like to try.Thanks.

I would use two onces of plastic,to make enogh for a small batch of tubes.Dip one let it cool remove from rod then check it outdoors in the daylight.adjust your colors,to match.Be very careful to record what amounts of everything you use(MARK IT DOWN).Then when the color is right,just double up to get four onces of the correct color,just multiply by two for as many onces you want..Email me to see how I do my craw tube colors.Saves a bunch of plastic.

You might try some florescent yellow oil pastel.It can go in after the plastic is heated,or before.Hobby Lobby has the set.I think this will work for you.

Thanks guys,now it is making sence.If either of you all want,I will see if I can find the guy who wanted the big tubes.He was going to use them for saltwater.That baby would take a lot of plastic.Can you imagine if you messed up on the color?

Great idea!

I like the idea of a large aluminum container,that can greate a 13 inch tube.I have a few questions though,because my mind is in the horozontal dip mode,and this is very remote from my way of thinking. 1.Any danger of the pot tipping over? 2.How do you keep your glitter,ect. in equal suspension?I mean how do you stir? 3.You say you can keep the rod in the heated plastic for as long as you want.Does this mean the walls get thicker as the time lapses?I don't find that the case with the horizontal method. 4.What diameter are your dipping rods? 5.How long would I have to keep a 1 1/4 inch dia steel rod(made of steel tubing) immersed to get a wall thickness of 1/4 inch?The rod would be at least 14 inches long. A guy wanted me to make him some tubes that size,and was willing to pay,but I had to refuse him.Maybe with your method I'll give it a shot.

Send me a private message,with your email address,and I will send you some sketches.

Just curious,why did you decide to go thru all the thought process to eliminate the horozontal dip?The method would work just fine with no heating problems and danger from super heated steam.Don't over complicate your way of doing things.I see no reason that the horizontal method wouldn't work. Anyone else that can see a problem??It will give me a problem to solve,which I enjoy.

Bad idea!!!!

My e-book is completed.I want to advertise on this site.I have no banner,and don't know what a url is. Any help? I'm lost.

Yes I do sell the cutter.I have made ten,that I was saving for after the E-book came out.The book has a movie about how to assemble a cutter.The book is close to being done(sorry I have taken so long),I keep wanting to add to it,but it is finished,and being formatted.Private message me,for more info.

Cut off a small piece of the amount you want,and place it in the hot plastic.It desolves,and mixes easily.This is the oil pastels used in art work like painting a picture.I started to use the pastels many years ago when I couldn't get the colors I wanted.It works,but with some strange results.You might pour some brown lures,and wake up the next day and find they turned green.I found by using the single color and not mixing(blending)gives the best results.You can let colors that usually bleed into each other rest against each other with no transfer.I hate when my white picks up stray color from other lures.

The only charteuse that Im sure won't fade is OIL PASTEL.I hate to recommend it because almost everyone puts in too much.And it seems I'm the only one who likes them is me.Hobby Lobby has a set of 12 FLOURESCENT colours.Enough colors to mess around with.If you mix two colors in the raw plastic,and pour,the color sometimes changes to a whole new color after 24 hours.By them selves they are very stable.

The instructions are close to 2 hours long total.

Excellent!I would love that set up.good job.

Thanks for the nice compliments! Makes me fell good when lure makers have sucess using my teachings. I had 9 kits that I was selling for $48,postpaid. All were put in reserve and 6 have been shipped.If the guys that had me set them aside one don't contact me soon I will sell the ones I have left.Contact me by privite message.Using this site.I will try to reseve you one of the unclamied ones.

When using the arbor press,how many tubes do you cut per minute?For instance,a four inch tube.Less than $40 bucks really sounds good.

I use the Microwave and Pyrex cup to bring the plastic to the right temp,using a tounge depresser,to stir.I leave this stick in thruout the tube dipping process.Then the plastic is poured into the dipping pan,where the heat is kept quite low,just enough to maintain temp.The stick in one corner acts as a heat sink,and removes the bubbles that may have formed.

Thanks guys.I see how it would work.I thought about making a cutter out of a aluminum can compacter.I bought one at Harbor Frieght,but wasn't allowed to set it up in my apartment.Boy do I miss my house in the country.This press looks like it is free standing and would be quiet.I like looking into new methods.Thanks again

Excellent idea! Does the press cost a lot? Seems like it would do a great job.How many can you cut in a minute?

Years ago I ground up dehydrated shad.I wanted a white tube with shad in it.It made a nice tube,but took up a tannish cast,and I really didn't notice the tubes catching fish any better.They had a oder but not like shad.Just another thing I tried that didn't work out.

I have two muskie type lures,from Red October,sitting at my computer as I type this.Great tubes and excellent twin tail on one of them.I keep thinking they would kick butt in salt water.One thing about thier site,you don't get the concept of size till you have them in hand.Big bait!Great work. I really like the paint job on the HD tubes.Good job.I bet we will see more of them.

Suggest the 3500 plastic.The prefered washer size,in my opinon,is the number ten washer.I have used other washers but these worked well.the problem is that quality control is lousy,and they vary in thickness.I try to match them the best I can.I have bought shim washers but they cost a arm and a leg,and are really not needed.Most of my tubes are dipped once.I like to make mine similar to the fat Gitzit.Thin walled but tough.The tails are very active.I also dip multiple times,depending on what I want.When horozontal dipping I just dip the first dip all the way.Allow to cool then dip again at a fair angle to just get the front potion of the tube.Vertical dippin the front would be easier.

I think you are over complicating a simple process.If you are making tubes as thick as it sounds with that much plastic I see no way for success.To bad you don't have a copy of my video,it would save me a whole bunch of one fingered typing. First of all forget the one handle cutter for what you want to do,and start thinking,a cutter that kooks like a rolling pin that you might find in the kitchen,but without the wooden center section.This section would be replaced with the shaft,washers and blades.You will need two hands,and more important,equal pressure.To assemble the cutter you will need: 3/16 inch steel rod,cut to the width of the blade assembly plus about 4 inches,faucet washers to provide a good firm stop for the first and last washers,JB weld to set the wood handles of your choice,two 3/16 self threading nuts(Pal Nuts).Make sure your blades rotate freely,with no wobble. I usually make about two dozen tubes per four onces.You can make them as thick as you want,by cooling and dipping multiple times.Make sure you lubricate the tubes in a baggie,or whatever ,using scent or worm oil,before cutting the tails.When I was making the ebook,I didn't use lub,when taking self movies,to protect the camera from smudges,and the tails were a lot harder to cut. Did you try a softer plastic formula for the first dip???I don't under stand how the tubes got that stiff. I plan on selling Bojon tail cutters in a week or so(depending on mat'l suppliers).I wish you luck.Let me know on your progess.If I can help,I will.

Double washers would be a bit much.Try a washer that you can get from a auto supply store in a small bag.When putting on the handles,try to leave one so you can remove it.Not easy,but nice if you can. Less adhesive?Protect the blades.Use a 3/16 inch rod for the shaft.The reason for the handle is so you can apply pressure and protect your fingers.You can use a dowel or thread spool,keep the diameter to no more than 7/8 inch,Just the blades rotate.Keep your tubes lubed,and cut on a self healing mat.