bojon

I have used the fine sand from a hobby store called scenic sand.It was very fine.I used it in a open pour mold,that I sprinkled into the pastic after it was poured,using my thumb,and forefinger too put a little along the entire length.Of course the sand mostly went to the bottom,and even though it was very fine very little stayed in suspention.If you wait too long the plastic will start to set up and this won't work.It will fish like a Senko,and tear up like one.They do catch fish,but not worth the time and effort.

I spray all my dipping rods,and pans with Pam.Really does a great job of keeping the pans clean,in and out.The tubes wouldn't come off the rods as easy if went unsprayed.Never had a hint of a problem,except if you use too much,and don't wipe most off,the plastic will sag on the rods.I have some old molds that I will try spraying on,wipe slightly,then pour.I always thought Pam was mostly Canola oil,and fat.water would really make a mess,that is for sure.Has anyone else had a water problem. Some of my old pans,before,using Pam really are a mess.Pouring always made a bit of a mess and some of my pans are a mess.Any easy way of cleanig them up?

What about Pam spray? Garlic.

I found some glass beads,along the highway years ago.The kind added to paint to reflect lightA couple of handfuls had spilled.Tried it in a worm mold worked ok.Like sand it will settle to the bottom of the mold.I didn't find this a problem.They sank like a Senko.Worked well wacky style,but,like the Senko it was almost one worm one fish.

I have used sand,oil pastels,regular sewing thread,plastic eyes,and of course salt.I tried brown sugar one time,because I wanted that color,this was a mistake.What a mess.

Willy,Send your email address to me and I will send a photo of how I used the PVC glue and dye.I forgot to mention to use in small lots only.Really sets up quickly.For a brush I use a flared paper match match stick.The photo was on my old scanner bed and the tubes look a bit flattened,but you will get the idea.

Willy,I have done as said above ,glueing with super glue then dipping in clear.This works,and I also used this method when making a trout tube with a red thread lateral line glued on,then clear dipped.You can also get a can of PVC cement,and mix it with the lure dyes,dip the head of a nail,into the mix,and quickly touch the background color of the eye(I use yellow)then put a black eye center with a smaller nail.Not much neatnes here ,but it will work.DO THIS OUTDOORS because of the vapors.You also can use a MKE, (I THINK I"M RIGHT),solvent to thin the glue and extend the use time.I belive that the paints for soft plastic lures is fomulated pretty much the same.Any chemists out there? The eye will really stick to the soft plastic lures,when using the pvc glue.It seems to bind into the outer surface of the plastic.You do not have to clean the plastic before applying the eyes.

Great set up!!Some good thinking went into it,and my guess is,when you get it fine tuned you will really kick butt with production.Again,a great job. I have to say when I saw the pics at first I thought that the background was a garage door.Boy did it ever look massive.Getting old.LoL

Nova, The lure looks great.A very close rendition of the rock rollers here in Colorado.The Arkansas river,going thru town, was loaded with rock rollers.When I was young you could watch them move stones to make a nest. Since the mid seventies the stocked smallmouth have almost wiped them out.Fat small mouth,no rollers.Green sunfish have taked thier place.Fat Smallmouth!!GREAT!!! No complain here.

I'm hard at work,trying to complete a book,or ebook.Leaning toward ebook very heavly.NOW THE BIG QUESTION should I copyright it first????

I get mine at Hobby Lobby,I used to get them at Wal Mart under the Fiskar brand,but they no longer carry the Fiskar 28mm blades.The 28mm Olfa blades are at Hobby Lobby.Look in the yard goods dept,while there get a self healing mat from Fiskars.Some of the others are too hard.You might find them in other places,but I don't know.

Sure looks a lot better than mine.I like the rotary blade idea,but the blades cost about $5.99 for a pack of two here in Pueblo,Colorado.Has anyone found them cheaper anywhere?I use 18 blades on mine,so it costs a bunch.You only need that many,and a bit of pressure when cutting really large tubes. I made three of the,hit with the rubber mallet,type last night.This is the type I have used the last twenty five years or so.They cut the tails as good as the rotary for upwards to 1/2 inch in diameter.Too much noise for apartment living.They cost about $3.oo each to make,The cost of the rotary one is about $58.00.This is a lot more than the noisey cheap one.

Agree,the #536 is not a good choice.your best bet is to use LC 500 extra strenght.The #536 will work but the tube will collapse way to easy.You would have to add a whole bunch of hardener,so much I woul be worried, even then, that it would work.

Thanks guys for all your good words,and help.I will be continueing to take more photos and pictures.Hope to finnish soon.

JMIK26,I plan on showing tubes from 1/16 of a inch by 3/4,to the biggest I dip 8 1/2 inch long by 1 1/4 dia. I will try to get the temps this afternoon,I haven't used the old thermometer for years.I will check the temp when I take it out of the microwave,and when it is in the pan.I dip in what I think is a cooler plastic than when I pour. The large size really takes a lot of plastic,but they make the tora look small.What are you going to fish for if you don't mind my asking.

Brett, To be honest my tubes are very custom as to thickness,hardness,salt,and how many colors I want.If you dip one twice in quick succesion,they will be thinner,than if you dip it three or four times.You have to decide.My crappie,and trout tubes are mostly softer,and thinner,but my smallmouth tubes are harder and thicker,but sometimes I use a soft tube for smallmouth.One tube one fish,like a senko.The beauty of this method is you decide what you want and 4 onces of plastic later you got,the thickness,the color,the salt,scent,length,diameter that you want. I never have used this dipping method without a hot plate.They are not costly,and a good yard sell pickup.The tempeture setting on my hot plate is barely on warm at it's hottest with the stirring stick still in one corner,that has been with the plastic thurout the entire heating process.Buy craft sticks for this because of moisture content.The remaining moisture will be driven out in the micro wave,and when the plastic is at proper temp it will look like you have a bubble problem,but when you pour it into the dipping pan,you will use this stick to guide the plastic into it,and after a few gentle stirs into the plastic and a couple of minutes of setting the bubbles will go away.Keep the stick in one corner of the pan as a heatsink and your heating,bubble problems go away.

My bet is the plastic was not stirred properly when you got it.Almost all the problems you are having seems to really be that the plastic is not right.The LC plastic will settle in a short time,and if you try to use it without mixing it well ,you will have nothing but headaches.To be honest I would discard the gallon,and buy, from LC, a new gallon and really get it stired before even using a drop.I use a drill fitted with a foot long extension to stir the plastic with attention being paid to he bottom edges.Buying hardner will be the same as throwing your money away in this case,because you may get it to work and you may not.I'm talking from experience about this cause I ran into the same problem.I could never solve the problem till I got a gallon of new plastic.Sorry,but that is just the way it is.

Thanks Brett,Good idea,I'd have to have some one do it for me though,computers and I don't mix too well.I type with one finger,HUNT AND PECK.LoL. Were you able to understand the directions for the cutter?Need more help.just let me know.

According to the printers,it should cost about 10.00 dollars a copy including postage.I have no secrets and I can assure you that it will be very detailed.I always enjoy helping others.

I have had a big bunch of resposes to my emails on tube dipping,so much so that I'm thinking about putting together a small book,about 80 pages of how to,with mostly pictures. Do you think I would be wasting my time,and money? I would like some input of members. Thanks!

I made six tubes about 5 inches long,and filled them to the rim with fine salt.Very heavy.Looks good.My fishing partner already conficated two even before they were tested.I will keep you all posted.I sealed the open end with super glue and placed a 1 pound ingot of lead on the glued area.

JIm,I have stuffed regular tubes with Hard Rock candy I think it was called.It was flavored and fizzed when you put them in your mouth.I don't remember me catching any on them ,but who knows what a bass thinks.

All right!!Jim,keep me posted.I can see no reason that this type of scent dilivery system shouldn't turn out to be a killer.I also test my lure in the swimming pool.Have some one summerge next to a tube lure CUT OFF HOOK POINT, LoL. , and listen how load they are going through the water.My buddy said the blunter end tubes are the noisest.Makes sense they would push more water.

I planned on maybe some scent.with small razor cuts on the ends.If it drops like a wacky hooked Senko it should spread salt as it falls.The hook entry could also realease scent and salt.The end of these tubes will be lousy looking,but if the proto type works,I will try a Senko type rod for dipping.

I will be making some six inch long tubes that will have the hollow filled with fine salt funneled in from the open end,then sealed with Super Pro glue.I might also try scenic sand.I will let you know how they work.They ought to sink like a rock,and the scent should be very salty.Has anyone else tried this???I think I will call them BACK JACK from the old ganster days.It is my nature to try new things,or old things in a new way.