bojon

Nice Job! Ron

Great idea.I like the way you came up with the process.What are the spacers between the blades?Do you drop your tubes into water to cool them?I never considered rust to be a problem,but I have heard of blades rusting but never encountered it.My blades are all coated with worm oil,or scent.The tubes are coated.Do you have to hold the tube in place till the pressure is applied from above,all thru the process?My tubes are somwhat slimmey. Looks like I will try this system.I love trying to make lure making stuff.Addicted!!!!

Lead is used as a bath to treat wire for galvenizing.I think it was to aneal and prepare the wire.Think chain link fence,and chicken wire.Maybe the wire on spinner baits gets the same treatment,or maybe even hooks.I don't know,but a bath of lead really works well to heat wire.

I wonder if a copyright would work.

Thanks for the info!!

I also lub as Zbass,but usually I get to them as soon as they are cool enough to put in a bag to be lubed,and/or scented.I sometimes make a batch of tubes of a color that was hot yesterday,for a morning trip the morning I leave for fishing.Sorta matching the hatch.

Any photos.Are they swirled,or layered(laminated)?This is a new one for me.

Horizontal dipping will give you a lot more options on color variations,and good control of the tempature of the plastic,and the stirring of the salt,and glitter.Sorry I'm a horizontal dipping nut.

If you find that the cut mark at the nose objectionable,you could do as zbass suggests,but it is slow to do that.I think most of the tubes like you want are molded,rather than dipped.If you have a large enough pan,you can dip half a dozen tubes at a time.I have done it in the past,but really didn't see a big time savings.Of course molding still would be the best if you need what you want,but be prepared for a steeper cost,for a minor cosmetic effect.

Wow! That is really a nice setup.Should make for a lot easier workspace.

Send me your email address,and I will send a photo of how to make a rotary cutter,that should fit your needs. kocron@comcast.net Works a lot better than the boxed blades if you plan on making a bunch of lures.

Good job.All your work paid off.

The only time I tried a shrimp color was to try to match the fresh water shrimp we have in our trout lakes.They are very light flesh colored.I don't know how this compares with what you want but I was able to match it pretty close using flesh colored powder.I checked my vile,and there is no markings on it,but I'm sure it was from the days of my wood carving of birds,and probably came from a woodcarving catalog.I use a lot of powders for my tube color formulas.They work great and I have a vast amount to play with.A bunch of small viles that have no lables but can be seen through the plastic.You may want to check online sellers of woodcarving supplies.

Dave,as always,thank you! Ron

I have only 3 messages in the PM.I doubt that it is really considered full.Something is wrong.ANY KNOW WHAT TO DO?:eek:I paid my dues just this month by auto credit card,so I should be allowed more than tthree messages. Ron,just email me at kocron@comcast.net I will help you! Iwill try to contact Jerry.

I agree with Zbass.You should use the #500.This keeps the walls from collapsing.If you want a more lively tail,dip in #502 first followed by a deep angle of #500,after a couple of minutes of cooling.The #502 tails will get ripped up more easily,and the thicker stiffer body willl maintain it's shape,but catching fish is my first priority.

I envy you.It must be nice to be near fish like that.Good luck,and keep us posted.

I dip a tube that has a orange cast.Pure orange hi lite powder is added to the heated plastic,and nothing else.I add a lot of the powder and it ends up with what I think you may want.It has the Squid look.Has almost a pearl white with a high lite of orange.You also come up with about the same using copper hi-lite powder.I like both of these colors.The both seem to work well. Lure-Craft,stock number 297,Orange HI-LITE

Sorry to sound dumb,but do the fish hit the teaser,or a lure trailing after it?You may try a bunch more hardner in the 500 plastic,and double dip the head at a sharp angle.You will need to watch your temp while melting in the microwave.It gets amber(too hot) pretty quick.I like the head of my larger tubes to be a harder plastic than the tail filements.More action.

Thanks guys!!!

The color looks good,but I'm used to it being flourescent.May work even better this way.Let us know.

They must really have a oily surface.I thought it might be the pan it's self.I use rubbing alcohol to remove the oils from my tubes when I paint them.Acetone should be better.How about putting them on a shop cloth(paper one),or paper towel and place in the sun for a day.That my push out some of the oils.

I would also like to know.That type of non stick surface will be a challange.

The only dramatic change was when I made a light tan,with darker back.It really looked good only to change overnight.I made a white with a red head,and it stayed the same.I once had a two tone green that changed on me.Still green but different.I had some Charteause,black,and bright red that still looks good,but it has faded a bit,but still looks good.

I have cut the pastels into very small pieces,and blended them that way,but they are still in the solid form.I have considered using hot scent oil,or worm oil to mix into a more liquid state.I have never tried this.Has anyone? I asked the guy at Wal Mart paint department if the pigments used to blend color into the paint could be used in the plastic.He said he didn't think so.I dont think it is water base,so I thought it might work.Has anyone tried this?I figured if it would work,a guy could go and have the computer check what colors were in the sample worm,sorta like they do with a sample chip of color.It would be really nice.Sure would save a bunch of time and plastic,but spoil the fun.This may be something to look into.