bojon

Oil pastels work,but you have to experiment.Some colors not only fade,but change to a color that is no where the same as you had in as short as 24 hours.I have used a lot of the oil pastels with good results,but they are for my own use.Try the white.Cut off about a 3/8 length and drop it into four ounces of heated,or cold plastic.It blends easy when heated.I like it better than the dyes,in some cases,also the flourecent colors are stable,and won't bleed on the other colors.They can be added to the melted hot plastic,or prior to heating.

No doubt that the plastic remains good for many years,and also it will settle out making the bottom deposit hard to stir.I buy my tube plastic in one gallon jugs,and I've been using 6 year old plastic.I use a drill bit extension to get the bottom stired up,and it takes some doing,but works.I the past,I used a dowel,but gave that up to the drill.

Have you considered horizontal dipping?You would need a handle bent at a 90 deg,but a lot less plastic would be needed,like a inch deep,rather than a depth of at least the length of the lure.

I like the idea of ingots of plastic.I have no idea why I didn't think of that.I always save my left over cooled plastic in a bag,with the color formula inserted.Why not clear,well mixed blocks stored in baggies.Only down side that I can think of would be getting the right amount when it come time to color it. Many years ago,when I started,the plastic came in metal containers with a warning to prevent freezing.I have had my plastic,the liquid,the newer formula,stored in a unheated garage with no bad effects.

In the days before the Senko,I would add scenic sand to my open pour worms before they set(cooled).Gave the extra weight I wanted and gave it a bit of color.Worked just fine on a fat 8 inch worm.I bought my sand at Hobby Lobby,and they had a bunch of colors,and I don't remember how much it cost,but it wasn't too expensive for a small container.I would guess they still carry it.

I worry about putting a Pryrex cup on a heating surface,but only cause I have never tried it.I know better about putting it on a cold surface.

I agree with Dutchman.I think that if a drop of the plastic hit the water it may cause a bit of a boom.At one time I thought of using oil instead of water,but never tried it.

Welcome! Happy that you found this site.You will get a lot of good help here.Boy would I like to be fishing for what you do.Big fish!

I think the only true charteause color I found that won't bleed is the Oil Pastels,but they are opaque,and sometimes if you mix colors before pouring you will end up with a weird color in a few days.Hard too recommend highly.

I want to thank all you fine gentleman for your nice comments.This makes my effort wortwhile.That being said I have a standing offer to help in anyway I can to solve any tube problem,and don't consider yourself a bother.I'm here to help,and you don't have to purchase a thing. Dave wish I could offer a commission.Sounds like a good deal.We could have a drink and listen to the frogs sing. Thanks again,Ron

I really don't know how to find it,but I had a short video of the dipping process as well as the tail cutting video.Jerry was kind enough to post it.My guess it was close to three years ago.Can any one find those two videos?I think it might help to solve some of the current problems. When horizontal dipping you use a small loaf pan with a wooden handle attatched that is set on a buffet plate to maintain the heat,after beiging brought to tempeture in a Pyrex cup in a micro wave.You can use as little as two ounces of plastic,but I usually use four.The dipping rods are usually made of aluminum rod that are usually 1/4 inch dia,and are attached to a wire coat hanger wire using JB WELD.The wire is bent at a 90 deg,so the dipping rod looks like a L shape.After dipping into the plastic for less than a second the rod is turned nose down and set aside to cool.SIMPLE Remember to lub the rod before dipping with PAM. The dvd/cd shows more than this short description,in fact the dvd shows the process from start to tail cutting.The cd covers different dips like two or even up to four colors.I also show how to make the tools needed,the different sizes of dipping rods,and two types of tail cutters.So this is more than a short video. I'm lucky to sell a item a week,and the postage is eating me up.This is no way to make a bunch of money.

Check out the above thread on horizontal dipping.This is how I do it,and have done so more than 20 years.I offer help to any and all who ask providing they tell me in detail the problems they are having.I have problems posting photos but will gladly send a picture of my set up.I will need your full email address in order for me to send the photos.I have no trade secrets and I'm willing to help.All you need to do is ask. You can adapt to vertical dipping once you get the procedure down pat.I think a lot of the tube dippers tend to over complicate the procedure.It is simple,and should be fun. One tip.Remember a cooler rod will accept more plastic per dip.This makes a slightly thicker tube.Remember to cool the tube on the dipping rod then dip the second coat.I have even tried to cool the rods in a refrigerator prior to the dipping.I guess it is ok but I worry about codensation,so I hesitate to recommend this. My tube dipping station,is in the kitchen of my apartment,and fits on a card table.I cut the tails on the kitchen table using a self healing mat. I have had several people try to help me post photos on this site,and I just can't do it. Sorry. I don't pour lures,and only make tubes by horizontal dipping.I make my own crank baits,and wire lures.Keeps me busy.I have never sold a lure,so you can see I'm not in this to make money.I only want to share.

Describe in detail your problems,and I will make every effort to solve them.Making tubes is easy and enjoyable,and shouldn't cause you problems.I have,in the past,solved some pretty wierd problems.Most were simple.

Great job Nova! I had good results washing my tubes with Dawn dishwashing soap,then rinseing,then allowing to dry.The way you do it should allow a better grip for the paint. Is the paint still very fragile before the clear dip?

It would be great if we could use this on soft plastics.What a nice flash the lures would have.

I can only say that oil pastels have been used for a very long time by artists.I tried them maybe 30 some years ago when I needed a brown color and didn't have the color dye I needed.Dug into my art storage box,and found that it worked.I suggest you search oil pastel on the web,or go to Dick Blick art store on the web.They have tons of colors,but remember,some when mixed with the plastic,change to a very different color 24 hours later.I have mixed some really nice colors only to have them change to a color that is completely differnt when setting a day or two. I will try using a base color to the flr orange the next time I use the dye.. Thanks Shane!

The oil pastels that I'm talking about are in stick form.They look like Chalk,but they will have a shine.You can do art work with them,but don't confuse them with oil paint.

Welcome aboard!

My Son has informed me that thinning with Windex can break down the paint,so use care!! I've only used it with tube acrylics and the little bit I used worked very well.I was using it as a surface tension breaker more than a thinner.You will have to test a bit of the paint you are using to see what happens.I'm sorry I didn't mean to give you guys a bum steer. I wouldn't let this keep you from painting with acrylics,work with brush,Q-tip,or foam makeup applicator.Airbrush I'm at a loss. SORRY! SORRY!

The thinning of acrilic paints with Windex came from my Son,who does a lot of airbrush work.Where he heard of it I don't know.He sprays a lot with Tamiya acralics,and uses Windex to thin,as well as clean the airbrush.It is a short hop to painting baits.Many years ago I painted candles with Liqutex tube paint,and the paint adhered well.It sticks to soft plastic well enough to dip a second time in clear.Then it is protected.You can glue(or paint)the eyes on before the final dip.

First time,on this forum,that I know of that the tube,when being cut,will be flattened out,and the outward taill filement is not perfect.I have mentioned this when helping individuals,but not on the forum,or my DVD.My bad.

It was probably me.I paint a lot of my tubes,mostly for show,because I'm not sold on it being that much more effective,although I did get a 31 inch walleye last spring with a shad painted tube.I make them for my own use,so the paint job is rough.I planned on making a video to post,and have the base coat already on the rods,but I can't post any photos.I have had help and gave up,and thanks to the guys who tried to help.It's the gray mass between my ears. I use the cheap paint from where ever I find it on sale.Clean the tube on the rod with soapy water,rinse,dry,then paint.My paint job is fast and easy.A person could do as good a job as he would want,and make a beautiful paint job.I lose 25 to 50 jigs a trip,so I don't spend much time in painting.One tip use Windex to thin,and protect the painted surface,because it will be very fragile.Dip when dry into clear and the paint is protected. I will send a photo of some I have painted if you send me your email address and ask for painted tubes. kocron@comcast.net This process saves the lungs,and I don't have much left.The solvent paints are forbidden.

When you want a good flourescent color you might try the flourescent oil pastels.You can add before or after heating,and the colors won't bleed.I hate when my light colors get stained,and these pastels solved that.Try a small batch using a set from Hobby Lobby,or Dick Blick.They will be opaque. Cntact me,and I'll send a photo.

My first powders that I used was the same that I used when painting duck decoys for art shows.I still use them the most.You can get a set of maybe a dozen colors to play with from a art store,woodcarving supply,or at a art show that sells their products.I love the effect the powders give.I use only the pearl powder to get the white base I use.