dramone

NICE vid Dieter!! (aka tolles video ) thx for sharing!

they look cool. i guess the worms are "open" at the end. if so, how' do you prevent that the worms are sucking up water (osmose), or is this not an issue? do you dip the tail to close them?

thanks guys! i tried crayons (shreded with a blender to dust). works very well! the downside is, it's quit difficult to reproduce the same color over and over, but thats not a big deal for me at the moment. so far, no color change or bleeding after 48h!

Thanks guys for your quick answers!! Oil pastels+crayons etc. what do you recommend concerning the exact use. - should i mix the colors directly into the plastic (befor or after heating) or - should i make a medium out of the colorant (mix color into non heated plastic to get a colorant medium) what about "bleeding" of the bait respective color "bleeding" out of the bait? thanks for your help!

Could you pls help me out? I’m quit new to softplastic pouring and have a few questions about it. To ship materials from u$ or europe is a cost intensiv issue, due to shipping cost and taxes , so i have to think out of the box. I heat plastic in the micro Colors - Can i use createx airbrush colors (i guess they are somewhat waterbased, which would be a no-go) - Pigments. Making own colors, pigments mixed to non heated plastic? Glitter What about glitter/plastic in the micro? As long as the glitter is heatresistant and not metalic, there should not be a problem!? I always weare gloves and a “helmet” http://www.wolkdirekt.com/images/600/AS4088/gesichtsschutz.jpg

a thin vaseline coat works fine as release agent!

i would look for water jet cutting, not for laser...but thats me...

By browsing mold catalogs i

thank you very much jigmeister

to be honest, i'm confused... i guess that "jig" skirts are made of many different materials, not to mention bucktail i.e. but, what is the porpuse for which material or what kind of material is used for which occasion? I do not see the forest for the trees.... what is/are the differences between living-ruber and silicone skirts? are skirts also made out of vinyl plastisol or latex?

here is an other approach i used to use, i guess originaly from jrhopkins the "pins" need to be "threaded" for a better bond. the edges (angel) must be sharp for a smooth movement of the sheet metal (otherwise it can get stuck). sheetmetal need holes or similar for better bond.

glad you like the pic i got the hints and tutorials from husky and tigger made a tutorial for a german site (tut honours husky and tigger) for it, including netting and stuff. maybe diemai will translate it....

@TightLinez if createx, it looks like "chameleon purple" over "pearlized pearl white" to me.

anytime Dave!

maybe this link could help: Brian's Model Cars::BMC

just my to stop a "swim"-bait from "rolling" without stuffing it with balast, i try to put the balast as low as posible (due to a distinct keel effect). especially round sided "swim"baits tend to "bellyroll" "deep" holes for balast, can get close to x-axys 0. i.e. javallon hard

here are my for "smal" baits, i use something similar to DN, a 1k moisture cure PU clearcoat, used for industrial floor coating. i use an old/cheap airbrush, 0.3 needle to spray it. after 30-45 minutes at 70% humidity the second coat can be applied. (small camber with humidiefier). no dryingwheel needed. i clean the airbrush instantly after using! the PU coat is "rock hard" compared to D2T! the coat can be applied over epoxy. (comes in handy when foling, to level the surface of a bait) storing: i never open the can! i fill the bottle top with rtv and let i cure. use a canula (syringe needle) stung trough the rtv "seal" to get some coat out. u have to squeeze the can, cause no air gets in the can to replace the coat, so u will suck a vacuum. i have the actual can for 5 month in use, and no sign of any reaction in the can!

not a big problem muskietom51 the 2parts of your rtv mold will bond together. you will end up with 1 part. ok, its getting very difficult to place the hardware directly while casting, but you can still cut "free" you master and use the mold. shown here at 4:20 if you mold is thick enough. http://www.youtube.com/swf/l.swf?swf=http%3A//s.ytimg.com/yt/swf/cps-vfl73532.swf&video_id=ysJQmS7UHXk&rel=1&eurl=http%3A//www.smooth-on.com/media_video.php%3Fcategory_id%3D1%26category_name%3DBasics%20Of%20Moldmaking%20Videos&iurl=http%3A//i2.ytimg.com/vi/ysJQmS7UHXk/hqdefault.jpg&sk=kEWDFmkOAPfD40GjxEwi0mU_FTGYB1pWC&use_get_video_info=1&load_modules=1&autoplay= hint: if you cut at the outside "zick-zack", you have your mold keys! make small cuts for better keys. with this method, you will have minimum flashing.

a "vibrating table" could help a litte, but as far as i found out during the past years, a bubble free resin casting depends more on, air vent placement, mold sprue placement, mold angel while casting etc. (cause its in some way a "closed system" exept for vent an sprue) if air has no chance to escape due to "sharp" mold "angels" where air can be traped, vibrating does not help.

i never tryed to heat the mold, but i guess featherlite will get warm or even hot when it cures...at least the pu-resin i use does (exotherm reaction). so a heated mold could speed up the curing process, witch does not help to get rid of bubbles. to extend the pot life of pu-resin, try a retarder, but it does not make the mix more fluid, or "breather" (sorry, dont know the english terminus technicus) to gain more time to "move" the mold, if you have a ventilation problem. (a small amount of mix will not kick off as fast as a huge pot)

should be by volume, due to the usage of MB A-Mac if you post a pic of your castings (showing the bubble area) and mold as well mybe we can tell better. is it a two part mold or cuttet block mold? btw: if the mold is rotated during casting, often you will have a bubble free surface, but the lure might not be "solid", cause some bubbles can get caught beneath the thin layer of resin on the surface.

maybe this vid helps: http://www.lurebuilding.nl/prijsvraag/mgosenhuis.wmv

diemai you can find PVC plates in germany at www.modulor.de. but keep in mind, that several different types concerning "hardness" and density are sold. the stuff is also well know and often used for architectural sculpturing and prototype carving (hand or cnc) (i.e. mould foam) as far as it comes to Styrodur: the tiny air incapsulations (bubbles) in the material is what why it is used as isolation. the "holes" have to be filled after carving. also styrodur is by far not as hard as "mould foam" or PU-foam i used for castings.

if alginate or similar is used as mold material, keep in mind, that not all resins work with a "wet" mold!

ahhh! many thanks for the answers!