dramone

i agree, Husky can give you a lot of info about urethan foam. but as far as i know he switched to rtv molds for foam...

After taking so much info about all of you i’ll think it’s time to give J… I’m michael, 33 years old. I live near zurich in swizerland, and no, bern is the capital. I work as a realestate portfolio manager. I’m not married and i have no kids of which i know of. But i do have a pepper/salt giant schnauzer lady. (she’s the 3rd) I’m building wooden freshwater lures since a couple of years now, with more or less succes. but since i found TU i switched instantly to PU-resin and foam. I learned so much here about mold making, resin etc. Special thanks to Husky . He gave me so much info, tips and hints without i would have wasted mony and time. but by reading the other posts here it's impossibel to not learn something or get inspired!! I’ll try to share my poor knowlege as good as i can, but compared to some other TU members i’m still more than a rooky. Hope that i can give the comunity something back one day

Ave Spartacus i'm not sure if this helps but i'll give it a try... eyes: you can cut or "punch" out some reflex foil for the eyes. make a "dot" (permanent marker) in the middle for the iris... or punch out holes in to a "board" and fill it up with epoxy left overs. epoxy leftovers can be "spiced" with glitter. put a drop of paint in to the middle for the iris.

hope this helps http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showpost.php?p=47302&postcount=7

AWESOME "tutorial" !!

here are the figures: Lexan Refractive index 1.586 Density 1.2 Orthophtalacid-Polyesterresin (cobalt accelerated) aka ISOPHTHALIC POLYESTER RESIN Refractive index 1,54 Density 1,12 the material must not be tempered or heated to gain full strenght as far as i've been told... @vodkaman: i'll give it a try (impact strength seems to be a big issue, can be "adjusted"), and if i'm sattisfied, i will send you some samples (to liverpool, if alright with you) to have a substantiated second oppinion.

THX for all the help!! (@hazmail:nice idea!!) i just had a phonecall with "my" plastic supplier...he has a "new" product in stock "Orthophtalacid-Polyesterresin". rock hard, "cristal" clear, UV and water resitant... he suggested to try this material for the lips (pouring) instead of some "special epoxy-resin" due to the tiny diameter of the lips...(it's also used for aircraft etc.) what do you think? any experiences? worth a try?

the caulk needs a long time to cure (days...). if you you mix it with water it will cure much faster...the mold wont shrink if you use "cured" caulk as filler...

Husky wrote a nice tutorial for "hybrid" silicone molds http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showpost.php?p=62697&postcount=1

when pouring lead i put talcum powder on the stainless steel "pin" before pouring. the pin should come out with a little effort...

i'm not sure if i understood everything right but here are "my" experiences (ps: Husky gave me a lot of info's, hints and advices on this topic ). urethane resin baits will not float (at least the urethane i'm using) without micro balloons. i use 50% micro balloons (volume) mixed in the resin http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showpost.php?p=47302&postcount=7 for "floaters" i can still put on some balast or rattles to the lure to "tune" it.... urethane foam: i use it for topwater lures or for heavy lures, because i can put on a lot more balast to the lure. (hint from Husky: spray a light coat of i.e. "acrylic paint" in to the mold and you will have an instant "prime coat") due to the expansion of the foam i think its essential to "clamp" the mold halves thight (watch out for distorsion) i also use the "filler method" rtv+caulk-silikone for larger molds: - skim coat rtv: let dry - fill the "mold" with cured-caulk and/or rtv leftovers - fill up with rtv its working fine for me...

THX for the hints SmokeyJ German manufacturer

nice hint !! Bassday Sugar Minnow Drifter Twitcher Color/Model: R-140 HH-99 HA-104 HA-134

i use this method: starts at 4.09 min. (Bombs away Method)it's working fine for me...

so, no workaround of cutting/sawing the lips?

many thanks for the infos and hints! so far, i bent the lips using a "heatgun", but i never meltet Polycarbonate with purpose.... btw: makrolon aka lexan should not burn below 500°C let's see if i can find the time during the weekend to give it a try...

Dear TU members what a great resource of info's and help!! pls excuse my poor english... making lips for baits for me is a pain i'm using makrolon from BASF (is the same like lexan from GE, Calibre from Dow Chemical) for the lips so far. what do you think, is it possible to pour lips from i.e. epoxy (devcon), Polyester or a similar transparent material? or do you tried to melt lexan for pouring the lips (melting temp. 220-230 °C)? my thougt is, to find a "short cut" for sawing etc. the lips... your help is much appreciated! Greetings from the swiss alps

thank you 1000 Husky the results are far more then i hoped for! excellent tips and hints? i also want to thank TU for the outstanding board Michi

Dear Mike first: THANK YOU i also went to the store after "walking the dog" and bought 100% silicon caulk... the first test run is allready curing, with some rtv left overs on top, to see if all is sticking together. i also kept the caulk left overs to use them as "filler" for further molds. thinking about the whole siliconeing process; broken molds "shreded" can be used as "filler" (i'm sure, no news for you) as soon as the mold is ready, i'll give it a try with paint in the cavity to attach a basecoat directly to the pu-foam (smart hint from you!!) after comming back from holliday i'll try your mentioned method with a thinn rtv coat first, and filling it up with caulk... once again, many thanks for sharing your remarkable knowledge with me! Michi

Dear Husky outstanding help! thank you so much!! i'll try your "filler method" to "stretch" the rtv with Silicone Caulk... ps: i sent a pm to Redg8tr to see if he still has his fine tutorial with pic's...

Dear Husky thank you verry verry much for your help! btw what kind of paint do you appley to the rtv mold as base coat for the foam lure? (acrylic ?)... do you have the "original" tutorial with pic's? http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5205 Michi

@ HUSKY THX for your help! the jonson wax, is it a syntethic or bee wax? any way, i'l give it a try! @ RiverMan rtv-silicone is kind of expensive over here (1 liter = 38 swiss franks excl. shippment = 31u$ per 0.264 us gallon). so for bigger baits, I wanted to use puddy to "substitiut" the silicone. better cost efficiency... But thank you anyway...my be i'll switch over to urethan rubber... let's see how the puddy will perform

Hola i wanted to make some new baits with rock puddy molds instead of rtv-silicone which should be used with polyurethan foam. the puddy mold was "seald" with epoxy, a silicone based mold release was applied, but the 2 parts of the mold where "glued" togehther and the "bait" was unusable before wasting any other puddy molds which i allready made, what do you use as mold release?? what about WD-40 or vaseline? your help is much appreciated