camrynekai

Update. 2/9/2016 Having a slight rust issue with the OEM steel pots. Purchased new replacement pots and sent them to get nickle plated...hopefully my rust issue will be gone.

We are. just giving an example on how to get around denting issues with something as simple as heat control.

I use http://www.johnsonbag.com/

That is basic 101. I was just talking about shooting/pouring temps. Need to remember that 99 percent of the members on this site are purchasing shopping cart items from suppliers.....the other 1 percent are purchasing custom made molds that don't have any inherent issues with runners and gates.. The shopping cart style molds are great for the most part...and with a bit of direction can make some AWESOME!!! baits....without drilling, filing or any other mods. For example, the BTS series of Craw trailers (BEST EVER) have thin claws which I defy anyone to get the claws to come out dentless regardless of what you do with the gates and runners.....with those particular appendages its all about the Shooting temp. try shooting them at 330+ and let me know how you make out

330 and 350 are worlds apart when it comes to expansion and breakdown of plastisol. a 350 pouring/shooting temp is considered unusable in my shop and will always be considered just that.

Very much looking forward to it. Always curious as to how some achieve success with their methods.

I cant agree with that statement. Out of the hundreds of molds and 40 different styles of baits I have....the only one that can even come close to giving out a dent free bait at 330deg is my hula skirt mold. 350 is insanely hot for pouring or injecting....couldn't imagine the color fade and browning that would occur at them temps.

Most of my molds shoot best between 302 - 307 degrees. My stick baits I shoot at 298-300. A couple of degrees is a big variable when injecting....a couple of degrees too hot and you get dents....a couple of degrees too cold and your fine appendages wont fill. Another note.....all plastic brands have different characteristics, so you will need to hone in on what temp works best for your plastic brand/blend and the molds you are using.

LOL I have been trying to go straight plastic using the sinking additives in place of the salt/glass. Just cant seem to get the action I get with my mix. Maybe you can enlighten an old school fella to how its done. just sayin'

This matches exactly. http://www.pouryourownworms.com/Hot-Chartreuse-Powder-2oz-Jar-703HC.htm

This is how I move my plastic and salt mixture, 50/50 mix is the max for this unit. I use only rock salt which is one of the clearest and densest type of salts available. As you can see there is no settling with this method. https://www.facebook.com/thomas.kail.7/videos/10205873303891429/?l=4506783653748150337 To be frank....making an accurate weighted bait is a bitch. Its all a trade off when using different materials to make a weighted bait (rock salt, flake salt, evaporated salt and blasting media) and each and every one has a draw back somewhere in the process. Another big issue with salt is its tenacious appetite for moisture compounded by operator errors. Big tip...when using salt, add it to your plastic in the beginning, allowing any moisture to cook off BEFORE your plastic kicks. If you add salt to late in the process it will cause numerous issues that could be avoided.

I use salt in my stick baits, and before sinking plastic came around I used a little bit in my dropshot baits as well (don't want them buoyant, neutral is desired) all other baits I make with floating plastic.

Here is the Ultra Molds Shooting Star system in action. http://www.facebook.com/thomas.kail.7/videos/vb.1223306871/10205797428954603/?type=3&theater

Big fan of Bob's 711 Craw and Del's "Thing" Great Bait actions and awesome working molds.

Love my Ultra molds system. For two color shoots its a dream! really cant imaging doing it any other way. I run my blending block at 333 and my pots at 302-305....no denting issues at all What a very well thought out product!!!