Smallie

The only place I see the words hand poured in the flappin hog description on the page that opens when you click the link. He describes the baits as Gary Yamamoto's and not "Our Senko" so it seems he is selling the Yamamoto product. But the flappin hog looks like one from Dels mold. It is not the original or the new design and how could he afford to sell Yamamoto products so cheaply?

I just put it under a drop light with a 100 watt light bulb for 10 minutes or so. The heat makes the mold release melt and smooth out on the surface of the master. It also makes the surface shiny. I put the drop light about 8 inches from the master.

The only time you need mold release is if you are making two part molds. The RTV really sticks to itself and without a release agent, you will never separate the halves. That being said, a light coat of mold release can add shine to the plastic and in turn the mold if you heat the master up a little after applying the mold release. I use Manns Ease Release 800.

Those little scissors with the curved blades that Jim described can be bought at Walmart for 5 bucks. They are where the nail clippers, nail files etc are in the cosmetics area.

I use old butter knives in my Pyrex cups - buy them at yard sales, flea markets etc real cheap. I don't have a Presto pot but aren't they coated with teflon or some kind of non-stick coating? I used to have a fry pan like that and you were supposed to use non-metallic utensils. Maybe using a molded "plastic" spoon would work and not add bubbles. They sell those at Walmart or Dollar storess for a buck.

If you want to control temperatures, you really need to get a digital thermometer. I bought a new Raytek MT-4 infra-red on eBay for 34.95. http://cgi.#########/ebaymotors/Raytek-MT4-Mini-Temp-Laser-Temperature-Gun-Only-34-95_W0QQitemZ290128205353QQihZ019QQcategoryZ43989QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem The guy has more. You will be surprised how easy it is to get the plastic up to 425 degrees. I have SenkoSam's glitter and it doesn't bleed if you stay under 350. I also have gotten some cool looking "bleeds" running at 375 and I don't recall it curling. I will look tonight when I get home and see if it curled. Dave

Sinko - What type of bags are you using and where do they come from for $38 per 1000. Dave

That decal looks nice Saint - you are really getting it together. I am on the fence right now about starting a site. How do you like the Office Live webhosting? Thanks for the info, Dave

Saint - Are you making clear, see through or a solid decal? Any tips on making decals? Thanks, Dave

Tripped - I noticed the bait names are trade marked and color charts are copyrighted. Do you have to apply for each and every one of them or do you get a copyright and trademark that covers everything your business produces? Dave

Or you could go here: http://www.landbigfish.com/tacklestore/showcase.cfm?PID=748 Dave

That is very interesting. I wouldn't have thought it would be that quick. Now you really have my attention and my mind racing with ideas. It seems like this would produce a slow even heating which I think is what allows you to start with solid plastic. Do you cook it clear and add color and salt when you reheat? How long can you leave the heat on?

Wow - what an idea. It is surprising that no one has ever talked about this type of heating. When I raised chickens, I used infared heat lamps that were 110v and rated at 250 watts. With one on top and one on bottom, you would have 500 watts. I think my hot plate is 600 - 700 watts but it is all applied from the bottom so I would think this arrangement would heat just as quick because you wouldn't be loosing the heat out the top. How long does it take to heat a cup of plastic?

My Dollar Store has a 3 pack of 12 x 15 flexible, opaque cutting mats. They are about 1/16 thick and work great with an eXacto knife. Because they are thin, they are easy to store. Best part was they were only a buck. Dave

I buy #8 nuts in hundred packs at Home Depot. I put three in each bottle. I was amazed at how little time it took for the color to settle to the point where the nuts don't move right away when you shake the bottle.

I, too, am having discoloring problems. I will try the tips above this weekend but I have a question for Chris. Which M-F product are you using? I don't see a white pearl powder and in Liquid color I see: 13 iridescent pearl 14 pearlescent Point of interest regarding Cal's post. I used LC liquid pearl and a drop of their white and it turned into sweet potato. It didn't smell burnt and I like the color but didn't write it down so I don't know if it repeats. Thanks, Dave

www.surpluscenter.com has lots of motors.

I didn't see this mentioned. If you want shiny baits, make sure you seal the master with epoxy or paste wax or polyurethane so it has a slick surface.

This says it all. It is better to take too long than to scortch it. As Del also said, you can adjust as you get to know your microwave. Pay attention to what is happening as you heat it. I find that you can look at the viscosity of the plastic and pretty much know what you need to do for "zap" time. When I get down to the bottom of the cup, I may just go 10 seconds so I can pour the last bait of that cup. I like to keep a small mold out even if I am pouring large baits so if there isn't enough plastic to make "one more", I can dump it into a little reaper or some other small bait.

You would be surprised how quickly 2 or 3 oz of plastic can do the "4th of July snake" thing. Not sure of the exact amount but I put it in the microwave for 2:30 min and it got black and crunchy like one of those snakes. Strong smell too but not a lot of black smoke like you might think.

Smooth-on's Omoo25 and Micromark. Haven't poured with Omoo yet.

Creature comforts are debatable but the must have is the exhaust fan. Doesn't take long to find that out. I made a paint booth type affair with the microwave inside. A shelf above the microwave holds the Lee lead melter. Fumes are sucked out and sent outside via a dryer vent. Turn on the fan, the little flappers on the outside door open and create a negative pressure inside. Everything came from Home Depot. Dave

Thanks Longhorn - I want to try Elmer's but have a few questions. I looked at Elmer's glue at Walmart yesterday. They had school glue and another white glue that looked like what I will call the traditional or more familiar (to me anyways) bottle. Which one do you use? how much water do you put in? Do you flood it once - i.e. one coat? How long do you let the mold dry and how long do you let the glue dry before you pour plastic? Thanks, Dave

I bought Micro Mark RTV and it has a 4 hour demold time. I haven't poured immediately after demolding because I make molds after dinner during the week and leave the pouring to the weekend. I am going to try Smooth-On's Oomoo 25 next. It demolds in 75 minutes and is less expensive than Micro Mark. I had real good luck with the Micro Mark capturing details. Dave