Smallie

It's up today

I would be interested in this as well. Please post a picture.

I know people will say you don't need one but I use my infra-red thermometer all the time. With all the variables in plastisol, recipes and the constantly dropping volume of plastic in my cup as I reheat I find a thermometer very useful to prevent scorching, melting glitter etc. You can get one that is accurate enough at Harbor Freight for pretty cheap. I got mine on eBay for around 25 dollars with free shipping and it was a RayTek MT4. If you stick RayTek MT4 in the eBay search there is one on there right now for that price delivered. Here are a few examples from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=thermometer

I use a cheap hand held, electric mixer like you mix cake batter with in the kitchen. I use UltraCal30 which is a mix of plaster and Portland cement. I run it fast enough to mix but not fast enough to make bubbles. It is about 3 on a speed scale of 5. Then I pour in the corner, never on top of the baits. Works for me. Here is a link to their website and their mixing instructions. http://plaster.com/mixing.html

Friday morning, before I went to work at 5am, I placed an order for some holographic eyes for the swim baits I am developing. When I got home last night, the package was in the mailbox. How can you beat that kind of service? And the eyes are beautiful to boot. The unpainted crank baits look sweet too but that is a topic for another forum. Thank you Jim.

I looked all over their site but never clicked on lureworks because it didn't seem to fit. Thank you for setting me straight.

Mike - are your talking about Spike-It Dip-n-Glo Worm Paint. Their web site says it is for dipping. Do you have to thin it to spray it through an air brush?

I use Smooth On Oomoo 25 but I do have a digital scale so I could go to Mold Max. Do you know if Mold Max 30 makes better molds?

MF orange pumpkin still looks pretty strong on the orange in their color sample. I am thinking their pumpkin with a little orange or amber. I am placing an order and will buy pumpkin to try to develop a nice bottom color for my craws.

Haven't used Del's orange but it takes very little Lurecraft Orange to make 2ounces of plastic way too orange for Alabama Craw. I think I was trying to use 1 1/2 drop with a little brown in it.

Canyon Plastics made and still makes the first spider jig I ever used. I am talking 1992 and I believe this was before the Yamamoto Hula Grub came out. It's skirt was made as you describe. Here is a link. http://www.fishingluresandbaits.com/800-p-spiderjig.html

From what I have seen, most if not all hollow belly baits seem to have a hook slot followed by a dip to seal it. Personally, I feel the hook slot without the dip is better so the bait will collapse more easily when the fish strikes. Bears baits has a mold they call hollow belly but it is a pretty flat looking "hollow". http://www.bearsbaits.com/Hollow-Body-Swim-Bait--45_p_26.html

That is correct.

That hole is a good place to stick a rattle when you wacky rig!

Just remember this technique is for molds that have a dimple in the side of the mold and ordinarily produce a bait with a bump for an eye.

I just tried my link an apparently the new forum doesn't let you cut and paste the URL to the search results. So, here is an attachment that shows you how to do it. It isn't hard.

I used a mini meat loaf pan from Walmart. Here is the search you want. Just click on it. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

I have some swimbaits in clamshells that are over 2 years old and they don't show any signs of deterioration. I bought them on eBay so I can't say who made them.

Lurecraft sells a paint product too. If you do a search on this site, there were some threads a few years ago on this subject.

Z-man says it is proprietary which would indicate it is either made for or made by Z-man for their exclusive use.

I think all the mold manufacturers sell molds with hook slots. If it were a problem, they would get a cease and desist from the patent holder.

I have used an aerosol mold release on my masters and found that it interferes with adhesion of the sealer. Now I only use mold release on RTV. Maybe the canola oil gets absorbed so deeply that it is below the surface?

Once you are in the IRS's sights, you may never get out. Like smallmouthaholic has said follow the rules because paying now is cheaper than paying later.

Yeah, it gets discouraging. Between excise tax, federal tax, state LLC tax and the 40% dealers want you to take off of your retail price you start feeling like making more than 3 dollars per hour means working part time at Burger King - LOL

38:100 ratio is what they recommend. I use a digital scale to get it right. I also use a handheld electric mixer to mix it for 3 minutes before pouring into the mold box. Put the water in a container, slowly drop the plaster in by hand and then let is sit for a few minutes before using the mixer on it. When you pour the plaster into the mold box, pour in the corner, not on top of the patterns.