GB GONE

If you are referring to the one that resembles Jackall's cross tail shad, then Del is your guy. Del's cross tail shad from his site... Jim

Does the MSDS for all the plastisol brands mention this? The MSDS should also have the air protection requirement spelled out plainly. I need to go back, find one and read it completely. I think the MSDS may be posted on each distributors site. OSHA REQUIRES that one be delivered at least with the first shipment of the chemical. Here is link to M-F from their site:M-F MSDS I cannot find one on other distributors sites so may have to go to manufacturers site. Scary stuff for sure Al!! Jim

Frank... I am using all medium plastic, rarely super soft. I don't have issues. Get it hot and shoot my molds. I think the thicker walled injectors help hold the heat longer and keep my medium liquid long enough to shoot my molds. I am like Al, I'd like to shoot all my set-up molds vs having to keep opening and demolding. Not sure it is faster but it allows me to focus on just that certain part of that task at hand. Jim

LOL!!!! Made me laugh out loud on an otherwise frustrating day at work!!! Jim

I will echo that Tim. I may heat my BT blending block and injectors when I first start to get the cold out if the shop isn't warm yet but never my molds. The cooler the molds are, the more baits I can squeeze out before having to wait. I will say, if I don't at least heat up the block and injectors on the 6oz duel set up initially, I will only get part of the way through the process and I either get a clogged block or clogged injectors. After one run though, things are good. I would guess I heat the block and injectors to 75-80 by setting them near my floor heater. I have been adverse to heating my molds only because they cost so much! Never really thought about potential damage. Thanks for the reminder Del. Jim

I know I saw a mold at some point with a tie off on each end. Like a post or something to wrap your wire or mono around. Seemed like you could snell the hooks and tie them to each end, put in position and pour. I might be dreaming all this up!!!! Jim

This was the hardest thing for me as with one injector it seems easy. With 2, I seemed to loose the feel and push way to hard. Slowly I got there but there are still times when I get a little pressure happy! Your results and info definitely help move the discussion along for me. Thanks again for taking the time to post your details. Jim spelling.. again

I add eyes after pouring, rarely modify my swimbaits after poured and use a blend of super soft and medium plastic for my swims. Smaller the swim, more super soft, larger the swim, the more medium I use. Jim

Thanks for report Al!!! You can see how you will be able to achieve quick and accurate laminate results with a blending block. I will guess the block may be changed slightly based on your results as it seems in its current configuration it may not be as effective as when modified. Good call on the mod as well. Great job and thanks again for report! Jim

Be sure to wear the proper personal protective gear if you use silica or tungsten. Both have dust that can get into your lungs and kill you. Best thing I have found is to use a wacky jig head (Kappu, Gamakatsu) and leave the weight out of my sticks all together. The action is better, I don't have to sweat the salt getting distributed evenly and I can make better colors. Of course, this is just for my fishing needs. If you sell them, that might not fly. Jim

Little stuff like your comment does start things, especially since there was so much clammor about Frank's method not working and the duel adapter being the only way to accomplish production laminates by hand injection. He did the video in direct response to the notion that the blending block would not work. Just real curious that the idea Basstackle had that was ridiculed publically on this forum, is now being embraced. As far as the screwdriver deal, mention CCM as using the idea. I can put a list on here of the ideas "borrowed" from Zoom, Culprit, LC, M-F, Del, Bear, Basstackle, Bass Assassin, Srtike King, Yamamoto, etc. Still don't get your point other than to attempt to "wad panties". What was your point on that specifically? I am just interested in producing baits in the most time effective manner that are of the highest quality. Especially laminates. If one method works over another, I am going to use it. Each manufacturer here has things that work great and it helps to see the results here on TU. Make a video of your production method and post it up so I can see how well it works. Maybe I and others will consider switching if the baits can be produced as rapidly and with the same reliability/quality. Jim

Only problem with a hinged mold is, if it gets dropped or twisted. Once the hinge is off center, you have to clamp the crap out of it to get baits without flashing. I was in the process of buying a used hinged mold and the seller dropped it prior to ship. Deal off as the mold was not usable according to seller. Seems putting the hinge in is just a matter of programming just like the mold cavity. If it was my call Mark, I'd make the molds with just a couple centering pins and nothing else. Clamps are effective for me. Jim spelling

Yeah no reason to get into that Frank cause Collins & Do-It used the hinge far before Bear... Why simmer down when your initial post is an attack on CCM vs information on the topic at hand? Don't get into the "he copied deal" as there will be hurt feelings. As you say in your post "I found that once i learned to use it properly it produces quite consistent laminates." Frank has shown by his video that indeed this block works well if used properly. The proof is there on the screen. Obviously, the blending block idea must be a good idea as it is now being offered by Bear. If the blending block was inferior, there would be no reason to make and sell them. Jim

LOL.. The "basic mold" you speak of, is that the aluminum part, the square part, the part with the 5/8" port or what? All injection molds are of the "basic design"! If you are insinuating that CCM has somehow copied Bears mold design, that is lame. Unique thing about Jason at CCM is that he is creating unique bait designs vs copying existing baits or existing ideas. Gotta respect that regardless. Do you own a CCM or are you just trying to put his molds down for a certain reason? I actually own Del's, Basstackles, Bears and CCMs so I can talk about the diffences from first hand experience. They all have positives and negatives but all make nice stuff! Be nice to hear information regarding the production of 2 color baits with few molds as that is the topic at hand, not knocking someone's molds. Jim

No matter what anyone tells me, I know I can make more baits with a multi-cavity mold vs a one cavity mold. I do it everyday. You just prep for using more plastic if you have high cavity molds. De-molding is demolding. Takes the same time to open a mold with one bait as it does with 3 baits inside. Production is just a numbers game and as you increase molds, you increase the plastic available, that equals more baits per hour. Jim PS CCM has a small place on their molds for a screw driver tip to go into to twist to open the molds. Still have to clamp them on the one end.

That was my point Frank. Multi cavity molds multiply the results. My 3 and 4 cavity molds really kick the baits out! Flip side is, that Beast would be a BEAST in a 2 cavity mold!!! Still impressve to do that many laminates in that time. Shows a single person can get to far more tahn I am doing once you get things smoothed out. Jim

I was talking about after mine have been in the boat or storage for a long period of time and the tails get pinched or bent. Prior to ship, they are a laying flat on large sheets of aluminum in a rack. Jim

The only time I do that is if my swimbait tail needs to be straightened from laying funny. Jim

I thought that was a raised area I was seeing Frank and had something similar incorporated into my new shop I just moved into. I have a 6' long raised stainless steel platform on my 10' counter. I raised mine only about an inch but might move it higher for the summer so I can run the air below. Thanks again for doing the video as it helped me put together my system in my mind and in the new shop. You shortened the learning curve by months! Jim

Just my point Jon. It can be done for sure and if the baits are smaller (cool faster) and each mold has 2, 3 or 4 baits, just think how many you could make. Laminates are slower but you can still crank them out once you get a system down. Thanks for the great pic. Jim

So true Frank. I ready several 2 cup pyrex cups to go into the microwave prior to even starting the process. Rather than try to re-heat after I have used about 13oz, I have another fresh set nuking. I remove all my injector plastic and block plastic to go into the cup I am setting aside with 3oz or less in them. I don't mess with my sprue plastic until I am completely finished with all my runs. Everybody will get a routine but once you get one and keep doing it, you speed up significantly. With more molds, the sky will be the limit on laminate baits produced. Never touch the machine but I never thought I would be able to crank this many laminates out so fast and of such high quality. Jim

PS I am shooting smaller baits or thin baits (except the frogs) so they cool fast as well. I can demold (unclamp the 2 clamps) and start peeling baits out of the molds as soon as I empty the injectors. Other issue I do hit though is using larger pyrex cups (2 cup and 4 cup), the flake falls faster. Contantly stirring prior to pulling up plastic. Also have a tough time getting the last bit of plastic without getting air... Jim spelling...

I have plenty of molds that are multi-cavity now and that helps immensely. When 1 shot gets you 2-4 baits, you can get them knocked out. When I say short order, I am saying just under 3 hours for around 320 laminate baits. That includes cleaning up the work area also. I guess I am comparing to my hand pour, split cup where I would have had to do each single cavity. Probaly would take over 5 hours. Multiple cavity molds allow you to crank the baits out. A master I am not. Working on it, I am. I think YODA said that!!! Jim

You could do that Mark but more time manipulating molds = plastic cooling. If I hesitate even the slightest bit, I can't get through the full 12oz of plastic (6 on each side). What I do currently is have every other mold sticking out about the width of the blending block. Works but still requires moving off that stright line of work. Sometimes I have a harder time judging the port that way and then I can't get through the full injectors. My engineer buddy has some ideas but he is like the MythBuster guys, he might blow my whole shop up prior or during his solution!!!! Jim

Second that!!!! I had a Presto already but bought the stirrer set up from Bear! Best money I spent towards pot pouring ever. High quality and lasts! Jim