GB GONE

If that is truely the brush baby mold you have (the picture is the 2 piece, injection mold), I will take it. Please let me know if this is actually the 2 piece mold and if so, where to paypal $$$. Jim

Getting burned with the block set-up will be far more easy than beakers or tin pans as well. Not sure on the change in the block as I just ordered one and started using it, I got what I got. It works though. Just from a guy who has actually been doing it in a production mode. Jim

There is another major issue that has not been talked about when using these blending blocks in a production mode as it may be that many are just using these for non-production baits currently. If you clamp several hinged molds together in a row (as most do during production), the port areas are all directly next to each other. Once you inject your first mold, the sprue area fills and spills over. When you put the blending block into the next mold port, the blending block lays over the previous port area and plastic sticks to the bottom of the block. Continue this for a couple molds and you have a clogged mess from the plastic cooling on the outside of the molds and sticking to the blending block and its port. The block does not clog, the port where plastic extrudes from gets clogged or you get the colors mixed on the port. I will post some pics tonight of what I am talking about if it is unclear. The only alternative is to clamp 2 molds and then seperate 2 more and so on. Or have all seperate clamps for all your hinged molds. Takes up a LOT of counter space, especially if you have numerous molds. Plus you have to buy a LOT of clamps. Definitely a draw back in production attempts beyond the block clogging inside and moving the set up from mold to mold. I will guess that you didn't use the blending block from Basstackle long Al as I had issues with getting used to using it in the beginning. I can run out two 6oz injectors now without the block or injectors clogging. I just don't get 24 molds in, more like 10 (Which is 20 baits or 30 baits, depending on what molds I am shooting). I run out of plastic before I run out of molds. You do have to pre-heat and also move pretty quick. I think both of these blocks will work in a production setting, it just takes practice to get used to using them. With regards to the blocks being different, HA, HA.... A blind man can see Bears is just a copy of the Basstackle block. After using this method for several months now, in production, I can tell you, without a doubt, that removing the plastic faster from the blending block is your least concern. It really is not an issue at all as you are waiting for baits to cool, de-molding, readying other molds and heating plastic. You have several minutes to get the block clean. Or, you have 2 blocks and you don't even think about clearing the first block for a pretty good amount of time. We are talking about production, right?? The issue (clogging) that you originally brought up with the blending block made by Basstackle has not been addressed in the design of the Bear blending block for production use. They are both made of aluminum and neither has a heating mechanism, therefore, they will both eventually clog. Not science, just fact. I still wonder out loud how you will get good quality lamination without the injectors depressing at the same time, with the same force, along with how you are going to balance holding 2 loose injectors and a blending block with 2 hands??? Without something to move the injectors at the exact same time and force, you will get as many swirl baits as you do laminate, just like with the duel adapter contraptions being used currently. Then moving all that to the next mold. As a person that has been using this set-up for months now for production, be careful! Even now, the injectors slip out of the block ports and plastic starts oozing places you don't expect. Getting burned is easier with all this to me than just my good old pyrex/anchor cups. Just my experiences from using a blending block in production for 4-5 months now. I shot 300+ laminate baits just last night with mine in very short order. The current Basstackle block does work and work well. My bait color chart is proof enough for me. Jim

Then I think you are going to be dissapointed for sure. Bears block is the same as Basstackles, just a hinge, pin and slightly shorter in length. Other than that, it is just a copy. My point earlier was that the clogging and the moving of the block issues have not been addressed in this model either. Let me know what you think Al and if you would rather just PM me, that is fine. I am afraid this topic is going to blow up and it is not my intention. I am just looking for information on the product. Jim

Look forward to your review. I suspect you will have positive remarks as it is the same as Basstackles but with a hinge vs a single center nut. Sure makes lamination a no-brainer! Thanks Al. Jim

I was curious because months ago when Basstackle came out with this block, the blending block was called out by lots of folks as slow, awkward, clogs up, etc. Probably the reason Frank did this video. I can see how the hinge will help clear plastic quicker (minor issue if you have used one of these as I have for months) but definitely will not speed up any process of moving mold to mold (more important) or resolving the clogging issue (biggest issue to me). Bears may clog slightly less as it is not as wide therefore less plastic in the actual block while injecting. Maybe someone will make a video like Frank did so we can see. Will there be the same set-up as Basstackles for the injectors so that you force plastic at the same time as well? That is really what makes the lamination perfect every time not the block. Jim

So have you tried the blending block out made by Bear? It appears to be the same (same name even) but I wonder if you will have the same issues as Kevin's? Does not look any significant changes made but I am looking for information on how the Bear's blending block works if anyone is using it. It appears to be smaller and may fit my hand a little better. Anyone using yet? Jim

I use mine mainly with the blending block (Basstackle's) so it is tough to empty 12oz of plastic without the blending block or injectors clogging. Can be done but you really have to hustle and have plenty of molds to boot! Jim

Ditto on the 3oz version. Jim

No sir. Colors like blue will even be worse it seems when added before. Just my experience on that though. I am sure many add theirs colors prior to heating. Jim

Colors have to be added PRIOR to heating up plastisol. Also, be extra sure they bottles are mixed well. Jim

Can you give number per bag and cost? Jim

Thanks!!! I know what you are saying! I have a couple of designs in waiting but need to find that money tree to pull it off. Maybe Santa will be good to me this year. Wife says I'm getting coal if I am lucky!!! Merry CHRISTmas Jim

Just curious why you are selling? Jim

True to an extent. I also want to be sure to explain that there are existing alternatives available, especially in production type senarios. For production, the manipulation of the molds or a partition in a mold to make a laminate is not an effective solution. Also, many times information regarding an existing solution is not readily available or is confusing so there is an attempt to re-invent the wheel when the wheel exists in some form. In production situations or when I am making things for buddies, time is money. I also look for the most effective use of my time so the family gets their proper time. Jim

Thanks... Want some samples???? Jim

Thank you for the kind words on the baits and photos. I have no clue how I get my decent shots now! Sad but true! I have been able to find a spot that seems to just get the right amount of light and at the right angle. I did get a new Fuji camera as well but nothing fancy. I am sure others that have expertise can give you tips. I'd start another thread in the forum... Good luck!!!! Jim

You want your colors to be close in temp, that is all that matters. To hot and your glitter may fall to one side of the bait though. As far as the blending block working on multiple cavity molds, my molds are up to 3 cavities and they shoot perfect 99% of the time. The blending block was made for injection molds, I just use it on my hand pour molds sometimes as well. Very rare to have a blemished bait. I think Frank can comment as well. Here is a couple shots.... Caney Creek 3MD XL Caney Creek Birch Bug The scond bait is very thin in a lot of areas and even down to the thinest part, it is laminated with the 2 colors. Jim

Sorry bud, hand pouring into the blending block is nutty! The plastic would plug the block almost instantly due to the plastic flow area being small. It plugs quicker than I'd like with an injector!!! To add, you would not get a laminate hand pouring into the block anyway as you could not control the 2 streams of plastic well enough. The injectors that are attached together force the delivery of plastic from each injector at the exact same flow rate. That is what ultimately produces a good laminate. Also, plastic temps play a part. Jim

You do know that the blending block fron Basstackle can be used to do perfect laminates on hand pour molds. I use mine all the time. On injection molds, it works perfectly as well. Bear has a laminate system for injection molds also. Just making sure you are aware as your idea is a good one however I just used my blending block and go mold to mold without any of the hassles or manipulations of the mold. Jim

I like your "outside the box" thinking..... Jim

I have used e-tex lite before and I did not thin it. I haven't used the straight up e-tex though as I think it did need to be thinned out. Jim

When you post up, put a disclaimer.... "Baits are $20 per bag of 10 and hooks are $5 each". If anybody wants some, you can laugh the whole time you are making them!!!! Lizard is kewl!!! Can I get a bag? Jim