GB GONE

Cut a grape in half (one with seeds) and lay the halves next to each other.... It will spark and cause fire if you let them go... The seeds act as lightening rods... Microwaves - the waves that bounce around the inside of your microwave in a tizzy and heat up your food, actually are reflected by metal. And your metal objects are acting like lightning rods for the microwaves. So once the microwaves start to reflect off the metal, an electrical current will be formed - especially between metal objects with different protruding parts (such as fork tines) - items such as these will produce the most arcing and will be the most likely to produce sparks. Most newer microwaves actually have a metal rack in the microwave for cooking and you never get sparking off of the shelf itself. I have never had any flake arc but I don't leave it in a bunch ever. Even in already cooked plastic, I grate mine with an old cheese grater to thin out the flake good. Jim

Congrats MARK!!!! Opens up a whole new world!!! You are also seeing the benefits of POP molds in this instance. If you were using aluminum, your baits would look have cold cracks everywhere and unless heated real well, they may not even adhere the last color. A good way to decide on laminates (to me) is just save your old scraps and start putting them next to each other. You see quick what might work and what might not. Even ones that are maybe's seem to end up good sometimes. Have fun experimenting!!! Jim

I can see where the tails might give you a fit. Get the baits straightened well, especially the tail prior to molding. I think the thickness of your pop is crucial to getting the tail just right also. A little more on the thick side will help. On another note, you may want to just make the worm with the tail cut off and dremel the tail in after. It would be fairly easy to make the mold then. If you really want them done and can't get a good mold, I am willing to try for you. No promises but I have made so many now I think I might be able to get that one done. I do them for the challenge, no $$$. Jim

I have 2 more of Bob's buzz frog molds available. Pricing is the same.. $75 for one or $135 for the 2... You can contact me via PM, this ad or jim@ghostbaits.com Thanks! Jim

Del has his in injection as well as hand pour. Tips are also available. I believe Kevin at Basstackle also has one very close and can make it with the slide bar so that you don't have to buy the additional mold for tips. You just inject the tip and then the worm. Just other options. From baits I have held in my hand, Bear's seems to be the closest match. Jim

Mix it periodically and store in a climate controlled area and you will be fine. Jim

I think you will be happy with any medium or regular plastic. M-F, Chemionics (Bear), Lurecraft, PolyOne (Del-mart), Ozark Plastics, Calhouns... All have plus and minus to them. Find the one you like and learn how to cook it right. Everybody will have an opinion on a different plastisol but very few have used all of the types available out there. Jim

I just cut 2 seperate pieces and JB welded them in Nil. I can put my cup in the mic without issue. I am working with a "new" option for inside the cups. If it works, I'll let it out... Jim

Box must be full. I'll get after it!!! Let us know Nil... Jim

George: Paypal me the $135 at jim@ghostbaits.com or if you prefer not to go the paypal route, let me know and I will send you my address for a check/money order. Thanks!!! Jim

Listed until Friday 10/15 here and then these go to eBay. Jim

I have 2 of Bobs hand pour buzz frog molds for sale. Both are 2 cavity, aluminum molds. They retail for $105 on his site. Frogs are 3.5" and one of the best frogs made....imo... I am selling for $75 each, free USPS priority shipping included. If you want both, I'll take $135 and include the free shipping. First post on this thread gets them! Jim Bobs buzz frog mold

Sort of Mark. You may get one like that but then it is a crap shoot. You hit on the issue with a 3 part cup though. It is tough enough to get a 2 part close enough to the center for good laminate pour results but with 3 areas to fill and be close gets real iffy. A lot of baits are partial 3 colors then 2 or one dominate color with the others swirled. I though I might be able to pour a 3 part bait (ie Aaron's Magic) with this cup but my results are mixed and inconsistent. Hand pouring each layer is still far better results to me. Jim

I have a few Nil but I am not real happy yet with the results I am getting. I thought I was going to be able to get true 3 color baits but I am getting some swirling. i made some really good morning dawn though and the best part is.... NO COLD CRACKS!!!! Still need to practice more but time for playing is really limited as orders are hot and heavy... I'd like to see your bait results as well. Jim

I use it for all the baits I sell but never use it for baits I make for myself. I use anise or craw a lot because the overpowering scent of garlic is nasty to me. Most of my fishing is flipping and that is a pure reaction bite. The fish doesn't have time to "smell" anything. They just bite cause something goes by. I personally fish 3-4 days a week and don't see any difference in scented vs unscented baits and catch ratios. I am sure there may be times when it might make a difference but then you may have to have anise instaed of garlic or shad instead of craw. We probably are giving the fish way to much credit. As a side, how many scent their crankbaits? They catch great without scent and have big metal hooks hanging off of them.... Jim PS I cook my scent in as there is nothing worse to me than a bag of baits swimming in slimmy scent. Makes your baits hard to hang on to to rig, gets all over your hands and boat. Seems excessive to me. A little sprayed on BANG every now and then helps the bait slide through the slop though...

RTV (silicone) is really the answer here. You can either make your divider from rtv or dip your metal divider in the rtv for protection. Foolproof.... Jim

Many times they spark on the edge of the metal. Look for a spot between the metal and the JB Weld. Could be on the side or even the bottom of the piece of metal. The shiny part of metal and also sharp points of metal can act as antennaes for the "microwaves" bouncing around inside and will arc possibly. Eliminate shiny and pointy, and you have no worries. I have had a couple that lasted a good long time but eventually they seemed to spark off of pointed areas. Last one I had sparked on the edge of my metal so I sprayed the outside of my cup with high heat spray paint omly where the metal and the JB Weld join on the cup. Blocked any/all shiny parts. That cup has lasted over 6 months now and I use it 20+ times a night, almost every night of the week. Jim

Check with Kevin as Basstackle... I think he has it set up already but not on the site. Jim

Not sure about most of that but selling the patent and design to Bub Tosh at PayCheck is 100% true. You can hear it from Bub's mouth if you watch any of his videos on YouTube or TackleWarehouse. I don't like the names they have come up with but I do like their baits. If someone is producing and selling an exact copy of any of their baits patented, I hope RI gets a big settlement. Jim