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Alumilite Corporations plastisol..... Alumisol Just wondering as their other products are of high quality. The video is worth watching if you are just starting out. Good points, like plastisol needs 350 to activate... Just be sure to wear gloves or something, that guy pours close to his fingers many times!!! Jim

Ooooh... I know the larger models have one but didn't know the small ones had no hookslot insert. Jim

Much easier than that Frank. Just dip the insert that is provided with the mold in green. Replace the insert and shoot the mold. Someone that does a lot of hollow belly swimbaits started idea that a while ago. Jim

I would not heat my pop molds or if you do, do it just slightly. The great thing about pop is that it is an insulator. The molds heat quickly with your pours and holds the heat well allowing for multiple color pours easily. You rarely see cold cracks. Downside is that the wait to de-mold will increase as you pour more baits as the heat does not dissapaite well. Taking some pics of the last mold with thin appendages and detailed, thin claws. I am convinced that any bait style can be created using pop. I did use my injector for mold filling however notice there are ZERO vents in the mold.... Jim

Will do Dave. Here is the link to Mark's idea and his directions! This is a recipe on how to do it right! 2 piece pop mold Jim

I haven't made any resin...yet but I have several pop that I inject. All are single cavity but multiple cavity would be just as easy to make. Reinforce your pop with used dryer sheets in the mold. In all honesty, a pop injection mold is real easy. I rarely put vents in mine now as you can just hold them together with rubber bands and go. The imperfections and slight areas where the mold doesn't seal together allows air to escape and the mold to be injected easily. Don't push hard and be careful with your port. I have experimented with adding some sheet metal in the port area but have come back to Dave's (Vodkaman) suggestion of an rtv adapter. Made one that fits over the tip of the injector and it just cusions against the pop. Took a little work to get it just right as if you make it to big, it will push the mold apart. Check the way Mark (Poulson) made his pop molds with the hinge and backing. A very nice production pop mold could be made this way for pennies on the dollar. I can post up a bait or 2 tomorrow from one of the very intricate molds. Looks like it came from aluminum cnc mold. This one even makes me smile!!!! Jim

If anyone is ever interested in me making or helping make a pop mold for prototype or bait testing, just let me know. Never would charge for anything like that, I just love the challenge of getting the mold to work. I have a new one that is cooking right now! Jim

Nice thing Dave is that I could bag any of these up and you would never know that they are not the original bait. POP is that good and so inexpensive. Also, you have the mold should you desire to just pour a few up every now and then. Jim

Yes, the product has been out for several years now but they just started marketing it here in the states. Sinking plastic does not eliminate the need for salt. You just need less. I do know that those who use it say you can get a more transluscent bait for things like senkos. Jeff can help you out at M-F. Jim

Sorry Mark.. M-F Manufacturing There is a list somewhere on TU of the manufacturers. I need to hunt the link up again. The "green" plastisol or phalate free is an LC (Lurecraft) product. I was put off by the settling out of the parts but the resulting baits are nice. I like to just go pour, not mix and stir and scrape.. I do though for some stuff as I do use LC plastisol along with others. Jim

I am curious how many try out the baits they are going to make prior to spending all the big bucks on the molds. Reason I ask, I have seen a lot of molds out there on the secondary market now, some only weeks old. Baits perform differently when we make them by hand injection or hand pour vs what you get out of a bag from a bigger manufacturer. Mostly due to our limited use of heavy salt. When bringing on a new bait, I generally like to start out with at least the number of cavities I am going to put into a bag or think is reasonable for my personal use. At 10 baits per bag, many molds can run you $500+ (10 single cavity molds @ $50+), just to set-up a system to do 1 bag of baits per blast. I have gotten in the habit of making a plaster of paris mold of a similar bait I am thinking of buying the corresponding mold for and fishing that bait for a week or so prior to making the final commitment. Of course, this just goes for molds that are not "ordinary" like a senko-type bait or trick worm style bait. Some that you fish alot, you know you have to have!!! Here are a few I have recently done to try out. POP is a cheap way to really get an idea of how the bait performs with softer plastic and how the mold may pour or inject. Made a 6 cavity flick shake bait Frog Skinny dipper with hook slot http://www.ghostbaits.com/new%201644.jpg Grass craw After a couple weeks of fishing all of these, I really like the flick shake and grass craw. Not enough to buy the current aluminum molds avaialable in all these baits but certainly enough to continue pouring a few baits up for myself for further testing. I almost bought bait molds of all of the above baits prior to testing. Would have been a mistake on my part. As a note, I do watch to avoid duplicating baits that are patent protected except for very limited testing purposes. If I like the style/action of a particular bait I test, I will go to an already available mold from the various makers or have a unique design created. Do you guys go through something like this or just let the "mold monkey" have its way??? Jim

M-F requires absolutely no shaking or stirring. They supply to companies like Yamamoto, Basstrix, etc. Just a slight mix every now and then. Ozark Plastic is very good for sticks also.... Check them out as there are some big differences in formulas and some are not as advertised! There really isn't a BEST as they all have unique qualities to them. Jim

LC's green is fine as well. Usually green flake turns blue due to overheating the plastic or re-heating the plastic. Be sure to add your flake at the very last minute, stir and pour or shoot. I have not had problems with Dels green flake either. Watch temp and you will be OK with all. Jim

Hope so Richard. Demand will increase and supply will be short. Will be nice to get a few more bucks for the baits that are poured by hand. Might be able to coax Chris back out of retirement... LOL!!! Another reason why I love hand injection!!! Jim

The trick on those is to not pour up all the way to the sprue hole so close or so full. There may be a little extra of one color on the end but if you just taper your pour by the sprue so there is just a littl plastic, it will be easier to hit that tiny hole. Also be sure your plastic is a bit warmer so the stream is tiny. You will need that little extra heat to get the sides to laminate good as well. Jim

Tell Roboworms, Hurricane Worms, Conquistidor Tackle, etc that hand pouring laminates is for hobbyist??? Please..... Even Strike King and other major guys have a line of HAND POURED laminate baits... If you don't have experience hand pouring then injection is the way to go but it is NOT for just the hobbyist. I am still waiting to see hand injection do Aaron's Magic, margarita mutilator, and the multitude of 3 color laminates available and wanted by anglers. Not trying to start a fight as I hand inject hundreds of baits a week now, just saying that a blanket statement like that would be like saying guys that hand inject just do it because they can't hand pour. Both statement are not true. Jim

Your pm box is full. I will take both of the Bob's 6" paddle tail worm molds if these are the exact ones on his site. You can email total and also can email your paypal id for payment. Thanks! Jim jim@ghostbaits.com

Thanks Mark. I doubt anyone sells them but search split cup on here and Del's forum, you'll be able to make one easy. Jim

You got it Ed!!!! I have been wearing them out and fishing with other guys in the boat using the standard color. We fish a lot of high pressured lakes and I think anyhting different helps. The red shad looks good! Okeechobee craw is my current favorite. The way the tail blends seems to really make the bait to me. Of coure, I'm a land dweller so who knows!!!! Nice job! Jim

Not to jack this thread but with hand pouring you can do laminates very easy with a split cup. Many members have done thousands this way. You can check my site for examples if interested and I'll be glad to help you achieve the same results. Laminates here... Jim

Hand pouring you will still have issues I believe but with hand injection, the halves will seal together appropriately due to the additional pressure applied. Just my guess.... Jim

Smart idea!!!!!!! Looks as good as using the 2 piece setup for sure!!!!!!!!!!!! Jim

I do this routinely with my frogs, swim baits and fluke/skinny dipper baits. Just have 2 cups of plastic ready. Pour 3/4 of bait with whatever hardness you want and then pour the last part with saltwater plastic. That simple. Works with 2 piece or 1 piece molds alike. I also do this in the belly of swimbaits to hold the insert in better and on one side of some of my flipping baits to hold the hook better when flipping in the real thick slop. With hand pouring it is a simple and quick process. I did do some with hand injection but it is a PITA to make the bait, cut the nose portion off, replace the bait and then shoot hard plastic in. Takes way to much time to me. It does work though. Jim

I doubt a release from someone who did not have a patent on the bait would be worth anything. Someone else could have easily patented the design or the action of the bait. Look up the NetBait suit and see how many are being sued over the way wings attach to a bait. You may be surprised. Jim