GB GONE

Maybe I'll try the watermelon laminated again as I tried both but liked the green pumpkin better with the purple. Plum looks awesome on the other side as well. Those baits do look great Mike!!! Top notch work!!! One day I'll put my hands on a few... Jim

Mike: Never saw the color until this post. I didn't think that color was green pumpkin. I was just commenting on me having a bait color name close. Hard to tell from the photo but looks like a watermelon with some flake. Might wabt to try green pumpkin some time though Mike. It is a HOT color in your hand and on the lake! Jim

WOW... I just poured a color the other day without seeing that one and named it Green pumpkin purple haze... It is a GREAT color!!! Ended up as color #34 on my 30 new colors list... I couldn't stop at 30!!!! Jim

I think it is safe to say that there are other costs beyond just the plastisol, colorant, bag, label, flake (plus salt in some cases) etc. Paypal or cc processing fees is another "hidden" but substantial cost. It is hard to put a number to some of the costs but I think you must add them in with at least an arbitrary number you assign or a set % to the cost for these other expenses. Otherwise, your "profit" is suspect and you are doing fuzzy math like the government does.... LOL!!! Jim

I agree. I would just add that I never hear anyone talk about the labor cost. Of course, this just relates to those trying to sell, not hobbyists. All products have a cost of labor. You have to add that in to really give a fair cost per unit, without it, you are not truely estimating your total costs. Even if it is just $5/hour... Jim

Definitely need to cook at short intervals and try not to get the plastic as hot. I have tried the bubblegum colorants out there and M-F has the best for holding against the heat and re-heat. As Dave said though, smaller batches is really the key to keeping the color pink instead of dreamsicle looking!!! Jim

One other thing that helps A LOT. Get the mold closer to your eyes. Stack it on something or raise up your counter. The closer to your eyes, the better your control will be and better your hand to eye coordination will be. When I pour on my lower counter, it is definitely a lot tougher to pour into the small areas. Hope this also helps!!! Jim

It really is just practice. Fill the body completely and be ready to go down the tail with filling part of the way then back to the body to complete. Then, move to the other side of the tail and repeat. I just did some craw baits for Ted (Cadman) with real tiny appendages on each side. The openings were 1/8" wide only and a little long. Tough!!! Use your left hand to help steady if necessary but after pouring them a while, you can do it. I pour a 5" fluke mold and I would say get a 90% rate of non-trimmed baits. Also, consider an Anchor brand cup. The stream is much thinner. Some use the aluminum pans as well and crimp the spouts. Baits like Bob's lizard are similar in difficulty. You have to pour down the leg to the dot and then back to the body. Lots of practice to get those done also. Good luck!!! Jim

Not trying to push anyones molds over another but have you guys seen the 2 for 1 sale going on at one of our site sponsors? Awesome time to try out new aluminum molds or pick up a few extras of what you have!! Jim

Might just be easier to get a hand injector from Bob or Kevin. That way you have one made to fit and you are good to go without that in the back of your mind.... I do like the idea that Dave gave though... An RTV adapter could work and be easy to make. Jim

Yeah, starter kits are nice!!!! Many to choose from! If you really are trying to save some $$$, make your own molds from plaster of paris, resin or Durham's water putty. You'll have more baits to pour than the single bait style you get with a starter kit. Depends on how little you really want to spend. Jim

Go to Bear's site and ask there. Jim

Be sure you dull the top edge of the metal as well. That top edge is thin but still can be refractive enough to cause sparking. Jim

I used roof flashing for my divider. It was pretty dull when I started out. Wish I had an "old" one I could spare! I use all mine every evening until the metal is far to hot to touch. Sorry! Good luck!! Jim

Sorry...double post.. Jim

I have several cups with the metal dividers. My cups are both pyrex and anchor brands. Used sheet metal and attached the metal with JB weld. No issues in the mic at all after several months and many, many gallons of plastic. I used sttel wool and vinegar to dull the finish on my metal. Jim

I use LC silver minnow all the time with no sparks or issues in my mic. Wonder why yours is sparking as even heavy silver flake doesn't seems to spark. Maybe I am not using it as heavy. M-F silver is nice! Jim

Mike: The best way to do it is to get someone with that mold to pour you some and leave the sprue on (or use your own). That way, your sprue is also attached and perfect sized. Been makin mine that way for a while... My frog spreus are much smaller than stick sprues actually. I wish they were a little bigger! Jim

I'll guess injected the red, then opened the mold, cut the claws and the appendages off, poured the white and then injected the blue after closing the mold... Jim

I have been putting many laminates together as of late. Forcing myself to do (and post up) 30 new colors in 30 days. I have 2 favorites so far: one I call JS Munch Craw and another named Cinnamon Blue Craw (changeable color)... Both pictured respectively: Jim

Now there is thinking outside the box!! Or maybe inside the box, the jewelry box!!! Nice...the wife would fish that!!! Jim

It is OK in the oven but better to just nuke some scrap plastic and pour it in to heat the mold. That is one thing you definitely need to do when you make your pop molds is be sure they have at least 1" thickness in the cavity. Also, I never clamp mine. Just use rubber bands. The pressure from a clamp really is not needed. Hope you catch some! Jim