GB GONE

Here is a quick shot of the original fire and ice worm I had sent to me a long time ago along with some wacky baits I poured. I am still not completely happy with the color as I did not add enough blue flake for the one side and really used a little to much of the red red side in the mold. Close enough for government work though as I will be throwing these myself! Jim

This is the idea I had several weeks ago with some molds. I know it has been used many times before but I wanted to use it on my snake baits. I am almost ready to put a picture up of the mold and the resulting bait. The sprue is at the bend of the tail and does allow for the body and the tail to fill properly. This is achieved in a pop mold only with many vents for air release. I think that the same concept would not work with aluminum as previously discussed. Plastic will cool to quick and fill properly UNLESS injection or vacumm is applied. In these cases, you would not need to move the sprue to the tail area. Back on the original topic.... I am moving back towards the origins and roots of hand pouring. 2, 3 and 4 colors baits with veins or core shots in one-sided molds. Del hit it on the head when he said it may not be worth the mold costs for a bait a big manufacturer can shoot for less than $5 a bag. To me, hand pouring is as much an art as anything. I can dump plastic down the center of a hole in a mold with the best of them. That part is not really hand pouring to me. Not many can do things with plastic like Chris (Al's Worms), bass8baits, Nova and the many other artists associated with this site. They truely have a skill. I definitely don't mean that if you don't hand pour, your not an artist or that it is wrong in some way to use the 2 piece molds. The pots are cool and efficient. Heck, I even use a microwave and I am sure that is not "old school"! For me though, I got into this to create things Zoom and Culprit could not. Great thing about TU is that all of the different styles can learn something from the others to help push the hand crafting of baits forward. Jim

dramone..... All the soft plastics readily available will "float" without additive unless you add salt or a very large amount of glitter to the bait. The microshperes can be used however you will greatly reduce the number of colors you can achieve as the spheres will turn your plastic a bright white. As far as the shaky heads go, you may want to post in the Wanted Ads section or go into the hard bait section with your questions. Good luck! Jim

Ok.... got a chance to pour but my camera is at work. I do have the recipe I use though. Bottom: 4oz 2 drops purple plum (LC), 3 dashes of small (0.15) red flake, 1 pinch of small blue flake. Top: 4oz 2 drops purple plum (LC),1 drop of red (M-F), 3 dashes of small blue flake, 1 pinch of small red flake. If you are pouring a worm, pour the "top" portion into the mold for the body of the worm only filling the cavity about 1/3 of the way only, then pour the "bottom" portion to fill the mold cavity and include the tail portion. I will post pictures of the original bait and some AIR wacky baits I made as well. The only tough part about these is all the flake in the cup. Be careful on your re-heats as the flake will burn if it is settled in the cup. Truthfully, the top portion needs even more flake but I hesitate to get so much that the plastic will barely flow. Jim

FORGET IT!!!!!! No women makes it not worth it for sure!!!! Jim

Will do. I have the original bait I am working off of also. I can tell you from the photos already that my bait has a lot more flake and barely has any red color to it. Almost as if when the bait was made, the red in the plastic was from the bleeding of the red flake. Might be able to get some done tonight for pictures. Not sure though as I was gone fishing and have a FEW honey-do's on my plate now!!! Jim PS My original bait is a Culprit I think.

My fire and ice is like the original which is a 2 color pour. Don't have it here with me at work but when I get to the shop I'll post it up. One side has basically 2 drops of red with several dashes of small red flake. The other side is similar however uses small red and small blue flake in equal amounts. The flake has to really be loaded in so be careful on the re-heat as you may smoke any flake that has settled out. I matched mine to a worm a customer sent me so not sure who the manufacturer of the original bait was. PS I like adding some small silver holo flake in the top color as well. Really gives the bait an extra kick! Jim

I have never needed a release agent on a pop mold if the mold surface is sealed adequately. If you have a place that plastic is sticking to or plastic has already stuck to it, clean that area well and re-seal the spot. I have used garlic Pam spray before and do like the results but found it to much trouble in the long run, especially if doing a large number of baits. Jim

The insert in the top is easily removed with the point of a knife slipped into the groov. Refilling is a snap. Drop size is close to that of what comes out of the "other" droppers so no worries there. I wondered myself when I bought those initially! Jim

I have used envirotex lite for years as well. Leaves an extremely durable finish and can be thinned as well. Just as an FYI, the high heat engine spray paint can be used but may cover some details in your mold when coating. Sometimes, you use what you have around the shop! Jim

Along the lines of science, remember when you are venting your molds that hot air likes to rise. Air will be forced out of most of the mold cavity because the plastic will displace it easily but let nature help you pour. A vent that allows the air to rise out vs being forced out downward will function better. I try to point my vents upward if possible or at least in a neutral (horizontal) position. Jim

Sure Del will chime in as aluminum is his expertise. My opinion is that the aluminum cools the plastic so fast that the tail will not pour unless poured first. Aluminum will take the heat from the plastic but the plaster is an insulator and therefore holds the heat keeping the plastic liquid longer. I have thought of an idea that will allow for the pouring of long tails and a long bait body. I am testing the idea on a 2 piece snake mold right now (Similar to Mann's hardnose snake bait). Should have results before the end of the week. The body is about 6" long and the ribbon tail is at least 4 inches long and thin. Idea is so simple that I am sure others have thought of it and used it before. Initial testing has been all positive so I am highly (90+%) confident that the molds and baits will work as planned. The idea should be able to be used on aluminum molds as well. Pictures and thoughts to follow. Jim

Glad to hear mom, baby and dad are doing good! Life is going to be changing bid time now!!! I learned way more from this site and continue to learn from the ideas posted up here than I could ever hope to give back Saint. Glad to see you back!!! Jim

Yeah...I agree Richard except on the blue colors. I have a problem with the blues fading if I am using an 8oz cup and have to do a laminate. If I just pour it out, no fading occurs. I have always just added everything at the same time instead of the colors first, then glitter and scent later. Really is just how you are used to doing it. My routine is based on habit more than anything else. Jim

I wonder if the color added was a "changeable" color such as motor oil. Red when it starts out but greenish from some angles and still a little red from other angles. Anyway, sounds like you are starting to get "it". The only color I add prior to cooking is chartreuse. Over the years I have experimented with a lot of colors from all the suppliers. Some colors will fade after repeated heating, many will be pretty stable. The blue colors seem to be the ones that fade the most with repeated heating however if you over cook the plastic, any color will fade. Just as a test, you can always make a 4oz batch with a color and pour a thin layer on one of your aluminum mold that is turned over. Re-heat, pour, repeat this to see the fading that is taking place. I have done this with many colors and the blues are really the only to fade noticeably. I have never used a thermometer as Richard stated, watch your plastic and figure out the time it takes to cook 2oz, 4oz, 8oz, etc. Remember that each plastic consistency (super soft, regular, salt water) will also cook at a different time. Also, if you store your plastic in a cold area at this time of year, you may have to cook slightly longer. Watch your plastic cook and the second you can see through the plastic clearly (watch for the red numbers on the other side), your plastic is ready for color and flake. Watch right in the center as that will clear first. Note the time it took, add your color and flake, stir and nuke for 15-20 more seconds. Quick stir and pour away. NOTE: All the above is considered with plastic WITHOUT SALT. Times will vary slightly if salt is added. Keep experimenting as you are going down the correct path!!! Best part will be in the Spring when you start wearing out the HAWGs on your baits!!! Jim

I am experimenting right now bluefish. I, like you and many others, am looking for a good alternative to the cost of aluminum but maybe a step up from pop or water putty. I have a dentist friend that is going to give me some dental impression mold material. That stuff is rock solid when dried. I have priced it and it is expensive but nowhere near aluminum. I will advise after I get the material and how it is to work with it. I am also looking into acrylic molding such as the 2 piece from Jann's Netcraft. To your original question, I have made a couple 2 piece molds from Bondo resin. Warping is an issue as Nil stated. Clamps work but are a pain and don't really resolve the warping. I also had issues with the mold halves fusing after several pours from the heat of the plastic. If the mold was for a single bait such as a swim bait, I believe it would work with no issue. If you are trying to make several 2 piece molds for production, I think you will get into a hit or miss situation. Jim

I have used an UPPER HAND scent IN my plastic and ON my plastic for over 5 years now. You can't go wrong with Doug's products and he is a heck of a guy!!!! I believe all Doug's scents are oil based now so they can go in or on with no issue. As a precaution, be sure not to use a water based scent IN your hot plastic like BANG..... You plastic will bubble and might go BANG.... Jim

Sorry for the great delay. Family matters took over on this project. Happy to say, as you can see the results below, mold was a complete success. I did not even drill the hole in the center of the curl tail as planned and the grub plus tail pours perfectly every time. As seen in the photos below, the tail is nice and thin. The action from the resulting grub is excellent! That means another $50 from my buddy!!! Just on time for the holidays!! Jim

I will tactfully disagree on the ebay take. If you can tell me one other place you can advertise/sell your bag of baits (at whatever price) for less than $1, let me know. It must be a place that shows your baits of world wide as well..... Nowhere else!! I don't recommend that you use ebay as your main place of business as those days are gone however I find that for every bag of baits I sell, I see a $50-$100 order come in. Not bad for a .35 ebay auction! Website ads are $50 to $500 per month, magazines even more... My whole take on ebay is to use it as advertising, not as a money making venture. An ad here or there to get your products seen when you are starting out goes a long way to building a solid following IF you sell quality baits, not seconds or blems. As mentioned, start with what you know and you will enjoy it and be successful. Just my ..... Jim

Great job TD!!! With what you learn just from that first mold, you will be soooo far ahead of the game!! Nice job!!! Jim

Forgive me if this is listed in the posts prior but I just have a few minutes... Make sure you are stirring with something metal and not a wooden stick or popsicle stick. These will cause bubbles. In addition, if you store your plastic in a cold area, moisture can results from sudden temperature difference when heating in the mic and you will get some bubbles. Just thoughts... Jim

I have added a portion onto a mold to make just part of it 2 piece. It was not a production mold just a brush hog type mold for my use. I made a pop "topper" for just the portion of the mold I needed more plastic for the hook to be placed. All I did was fashion the "other side of the bait", mold it in pop as a one sided bait and then drilled through the pop to make a pour in area. The plastic did overfill a bit on a portion just past the pop topper but not bad. Did have a little flashing as well but not bad. I think I trashed the pop portion of the mold in my recent move but will look for it so I can give a visual. Jim

Bruce: As an independent observer of this thread, you should also not allow the original post as it is completely about a personal transaction as well. I do not know any of the purchasers involved here. Personally, this topic comes up over and over again and should be deleted immediately irregardless of the tone or implications or how long someone has been a member, or posted etc. The topic following up is pertinent and interesting but a complete hijack of the original thread all together and would be considered an Off Topic Post in relation to the initial posting topic. The question was not simply how long does it take for molds, there was also info such as no email reponses. All of this could be directed to Del without the board even being involved from the start. Without "bashing" anyone, treat each member the same and don't allow any of these topics as it completely takes away from the mission of TU and its members. Jim