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GB GONE

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  1. GB GONE

    Goby

    Awesome design and baits Nil!!! I think it also helps to pour in molds that are NOT aluminum when attempting to blend the colors. The aluminum cools the plastic quick because it draws the heat out where many other materials seem to resist the heat and your plastic stays hot for longer. 5 stars!!!!!!! Jim
  2. Remember, the standards for poly glitter/flake have recently changed allowing poly flake to be less than desirable for our uses. Metal flake may be the only flake available for high heat applications soon. Oh yeah...metallic CAN be used in the MIC. I flinched the first time I nuked it and waited for the sparks. Bob from Ozark Tackle gave it a thumbs up for the mic though!! Jim
  3. Shane... I will post a recipe and picture tonight but mine is 3 colors now. Depends on what bait(s) you are doing as to if you want to go with 2 or 3 colors. My bb color resulted from my swim bait pours. Jim
  4. I like a translucent cotton candy: 8oz 1 drop white, 2 drops strawberry red... Flake to taste!!! You can add drops in this proportion to make the bait more opaque. Jim
  5. BTW.... I use Senkosam's flake as well. His green is a MUST for junebug unless you want blue flakes!!!! Jim
  6. Still beats the price of aluminum molds BY FAR!!!! Jim
  7. Thats right...water putty, durabond, resin, carved wood coated with Devcon, RTV... I have tried lots of things. Whatever you get good with, stick with it. I can mold anything out of pop and get a great prototype in no time!! I make a lot of molds for tournaments and one-time baits. Ex... going down to Harris Chain of Lakes at the end of the month and have molded a 16" snake.. Should make for a real HAWG hunting bait!!! Jim
  8. I would use orange, pearl white and red... Seems some of the colors may be coming through the pearl... Jim
  9. www.ozarktackle.com Green, purple....GREAT!!!! Metallic is OK in the MIC!! Been using it for years!! Jim
  10. One more note... If you have a stick mold, use the ends you cut off on the end of the bait you are molding. It makes the sprue hole perfect and easy to pour into... Jim
  11. Bob's swims are real close to these baits and the action is nearly the same. Only problem with Bob's is that the belly is deep and the hook that is being used with these baits will not work as well... I'll post my modified bait up in a few days when I finish the prototype. I am just making a mold so I have a few to fish. Hope these end up better producers than the chatter type baits... Mudfish is all they catch for me:censored: Jim
  12. Gibby... I just took four out of the package and layed them aside real straight for a day or 2. It really doesn't matter that they are super straight when you make the mold though. When you de-mold the baits after you pour them, just lay them straight. They will be fine!!! No need to coat the original worm with anything, the plaster will not stick to it. Tips on the plaster are...Use luke warm water...not cold and not hot. Be sure to add the plaster to the water and then stir. Never add the water to the plaster. Once you make your cup of plaster, bounce it on the counter or table a few times, the bubbles will rise out. pour the amount you need into your container and bounce that again on the counter or table. more bubbles will rise out. Some bubbles are going to be there regardless but you can fill them later with a drop or two of plaster or with whatever you are coating your mold with. I think I bought the IKE heads at tacklewarehouse.com... Several places carry them. I have heard some guys complain that the wire is to light in the hooks but so far, so good for me. I used Calhoun's super soft on mine and they swim perfect, never roll or twist!! Jim
  13. I pour all mine without salt and the tail action is fantastic! I like to rig them on the Iconelli heads with the tungsten weight poured on the hook. Fish (bass) absolutely chow these if you swim them through the weeds! Jim
  14. I have made a 2 part pop mold. Pours well without vents and makes a great bait. I just lay the baits on their side in the pop and wait for it to harden. Be advised you must make your pop thick like pancake batter to lay a bait down without it sinking. Once hardened, remove baits, coat all areas EXCEPT bait cavity with vaseline. Re-insert baits into cavities and por you other layer of pop on top. Pour slowly and form on end of the container to the other end. No stopping and starting or you will get bubbles. Wait about 15-20 minutes and remove your mold... Dry and coat... Pour baits!!! :-) Here is a final result... Jim
  15. Post them up so we can check them out!! It was always interesting to me how the drawings look and how baits start out!! Thanks for the input and offer!! Guys like you make our "dreams" into reality!! Jim
  16. It is rumored that the Japanese "borrowed" the idea from the guy in Texas when he showed them to an angler from overseas. I have seen the number and you can get taken to task for replicating anything that is patent pending when/if the patent comes through. Some patents take a lot of time to be approved. I have had patent work done in the past and have done a lot of research myself. Bottom line is.. If you infringe and the company wants to come after you, you are in some serious trouble. If the company prevails, they are awarded 3X damages + court costs, etc. That would be more than most of us make in a lifetime. The big thing though is, will they come after you. You will probably receive a cease and desist prior to being served. Also, beware of your packaging and instructions for rigging! Most are copyrighted and that type of infringement is much easier to sue for. My luck with the Magic Shad's and javallon's has be real poor so they have nothing to worry about down this way!!! Jim
  17. WOW... They look exactly alike!! They are probably from Lurecraft as the colors are identical and these have the hook slot as well. Pricing is exact also!!! Maybe a tube bait doesn't matter in this style!!! Jim
  18. Just saw them on Landbigfish.com and Janns Netcraft. They look to be real similar but lack the detail of some of Basstix baits. Bet they catch just as good!!! Jim
  19. A machined (molded) piece that is rounded and has a hole. nothing you could find as scrap unfortunately!!!! Jim
  20. Oops.... Guess those links are blocked!!! :-) Just search under advanced search option and do Search by Seller. Put in Alsworms and you will get his info and items for sale!!! 100% feedback.... No doubt about it!!!! Jim
  21. I think this will do it Saint... http://search.#########/_W0QQsassZalswormsQQfrppZ50QQfsopZ1QQfsooZ1QQrdZ0 This may be removed though as links like this are not really permittted.. Sorry mods!!!! Jim
  22. Bassbug... Search mold or molds in the fishing area. They have been listed for a little while so you have to go through the pages... Jim
  23. Gunnie..... You can make your own eyes (there is a tutorial in the hard bait section. I'll link it when I find it.) Here it is but the pictures are gone!!! http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5879&highlight=epoxy+eyes Or Stamina, Barlow's, Jann's all have the 3D eyes. They are more expensive of course.... Thanks for the info! I am going to be using some brass ones that were around a $1 a piece. Jim
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