GB GONE

No clue here!! I do all mine on the look of the plastic. I have never taken a temperature since starting pouring. Try to stay below the "big black blob stinky nasty" temp for sure!!! Jim

How do you make the wire bends? Pliers or is there a wire bending device? Thanks all!!! Jim

eBay always has them as long as you are willing to pony up!!! Jim

Hey guys... I'm a soft plastic guy so I don't have a clue on the wire or if I need a bender or something. I want to make a few of these for my own personal use. I am sure I can get everything at Barlow's, LC, Stamina or Jann's but have no clue what to get.. Any help/tips appreciated... Jim

Hmmm. One of the descriptions on eBay stated they had a hook slot that resembled a Zoom fluke bait. Guess they make all types.... Now I have to buy some just to see what they are like...

I see them for sale on eBay every day. From what I can tell, the bait has a hook slot like a fluke. Seems you could take one of the baits like Bob has a mold of and cut a slit in the bottom for the hook slot. The baits seems to be real similar in design. I have not held one up close so I might be way off.... Jim

I think it is due to the size, or more importantly, the diameter of the cup. Where the pyrex is larger around, the anchor cups are smaller in diameter and slightly taller. Seems the heat would be concentrated more. Pyrex cups are somewhat thicker though and definitely hold the heat longer as Willy stated. After viewing some of Bass8baits incredible 3 and 4 color pours, he told me those were the only cups he used. I bought some right away and prefer the anchor over the pyrex unless I am using a little over 8 oz of plastic. Wish I could pour like Javier though as it was NOT the cups!!! Jim

Anchor cups are fine as I have been using them (and prefer them) for over 4 years now with no breakage. A hot plate or griddle can keep your cups warm or you can transfer the plastic to small aluminum cups. I would not advise placing the pyrex or anchor cups on a hot plate or griddle. Re-heats in the mic is the only safe way to keep the plastic ready to pour if you are using glass cups. You may want to consider alternatives if you are going to do a lot of 3 part pours. Jim

The masters I make from wood I seal with Devcon 2 ton epoxy. Anything that seals the wood pours should work fine. If the wood is not sealed adequately, the bondo will penetrate and bond to your master ruining the master and the mold. Jim

I even have a plaster of paris mold I made that gives the same problem and is well vented. I know this sounds near impossible but my correction to the problem was pouring off center. Tough if you are using plastic with salt as the stream is not as thin. I can get 9 of 10 without a bubble now but you really have to pour steady and have hot plastic. Honestly, I make the 2 piece trick worms for myself and I want a bubble in the tail. The air pocket really keeps the end of the worm up in the fish's face!!! Jim

I have made a few for fun and they came out pretty nice. I have used only bondo though. For a release between the halves, I used WD-40. Spray it on a rag and then coat the mold half after it dries. Be sure to coat it well and in all the spots or you will have a time seperating the halves. Shrinkage was minimal and definition is high. No coating of the surface is needed once the mold is complete. Baits will be shiny and clear. All that said, POP and Durham's are much easier to work with and cost considerably less. I have over 50 POP 2 piece molds that I use regularly. Just be sure not to drop your mold!!!!

If you know anybody that works at a hospital in the Operating Room, ask them to get you some of the small scissors that are curved. They trim around anything that is curved perfectly. Normally, they just throw the scissors away after they dull up but they still cut plastic easy!!! Jim

More than likely your flake is bleeding at the high temperature causing a color change in the "clear" plastic. I never change pans but watch my temps close on any smoke baits. Jim

Do the baits look the same when you hold them up to the light? On the table, a lot of my colors look close but then I hold them up and the bait is much different. Just curious as my redbug has an orangish tinge to it when held to the light. My redbug uses some tomato and amber brown for that orangish tinge. Just a thought.... Jim

Del's 7" curltail worm is like a finesse curl tail worm and it catches the crap out of the fish!!!! I will go to that worm in a tournament if I am not getting bit and always come up with a fish or 2..... Jim PS Not hard to pour either.....

I hook the bait right through the center of the ball part. It gives it a nice horizontal fall. I have a 6' model as well. The shiner hooks are a little different as they are made for live bait so they are a bit more stout. I mostly target bass with them and have found this to be the best bait for wacky rigging any bait. Something about the angle of the shank that keeps the fish from throwing the hook. I have tried the Wide gap finesse hooks with so-so success. Seems the fish can throw those easier. I go "wacky" a lot on lake that are pressured when I fish tourneys and have come up with some needed fish with the technique. Around and under docks, the wacky rig is tough to beat!!! Jim

I like senko type baits for wacky worming but try designing your own bait. The one pictured is about 3" long and I used a marble with 2 grub bodies attached to it. I purposely off-centered the marble so the bait will fall erratically. This bait is a never fail bait and catches its share of larger fish as well. Pair it up with a #1 shiner hook and you are good to go!! The bait is small enough that when the fish hit, the bait pushes up your line and remains undamaged. I have caught as many as 12 before I needed a little glue or another bait.... Jim