LaPala

Vodka I think you diagrams are confusing not only us but yourself too . Although hydrodynamics explains a lot about how the action in a lure is produced; to get to the point where we have conclusive parameters that affects a lure we need to look at the various forces in whole and combine the various forces with force vector diagrams (high school math ). Unfortunately calculating and breaking down all the component force vectors might require finite analysis and a lot of lab equipment for measuring them directly or indirectly Go along the line of force vectors then you'll see where the resultant force is acting (direction, magnitude and where). Which would explain why the lure does certain things. We will still need to do force vectors for all 3D axis to determine the combined action in a lure. That said, lure making is all about making lures that are symetrical as much as you are able. A good lure for me is a lure with absolute symmetry and body shape that enhances the action instead of dwelling on a lip that makes the action. For example, take a Rapala FatRap, remove the lip and just put a nose tow eye and observe that it still wobble, check the frequency and design a lip that enhances and compliment that action you get a nice lively lure. Fit a lip that fights the natural wobble of the body; you get a lure that doesn't perform as well. Theory is good but that won't help if your building is lousy. And for empirical analysis, how many of us doing this as a hobby can afford a software like SolidWorks and the embeded COSMOSFloWorks for simulation of the lure u design prior to building. Even if you can, how many have the CAD/CAM CNC facility to translate a 3D model to prototype. Like I always emphasize, it's still the fishes who will be our final judge and we just do not have enough studies on the target fish to say for sure what they want. Actually if you have a lure that will guarantee 100% success in catching fish every single cast if the fishes are there maybe fishing won't be as fun anymore. Trust me, I got an opportunity to fish a barramundi pond with 6kg fishes and it was 1 cast on fish no matter what u throw, I got bored after the 10th fish, feels more like work than fishing then LOL.

Check out DuPont Imron paints. There are other paints like it too.

Dang u guys have f*%kin' good eyes lol, I didn't notice the writing on top of the lure. Okay, ur turn SmokeyJ, since u're 1st.

If you search for realistic fly/fly tying; you will be able to find several techniques they use for wings. Raffein or Swiss straw might be the ticket. For a wing that would "compress" in a cast maybe just use mono as the wing veins, trying different poundage that will allow the wing to fold back while casting and spring back out once it has landed in water. This might produce unique action in water as well since the mono "spring" attached wings can play in the water as well.

I'll do it, this is quite a modern and unique design on this lure. Manufacturer and Name of lure please.

Thanks Pete, back at ya mate. Click on my signature, that's my actual gallery photobucket is more for web postings.

I salute you Jim

Okay, waiting for ya StoneCoal. SmokeyJ, check my image location, it's photobucket Just using the original image link be stealing that guys bandwidth, not recommended (I've put a link to credit where the pic came from, only civil)

Too much info give LOL

see this: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3903621338367109945&hl=en

, That does suit you KC Willie525, post a lure man

Maybe it's your thinner or your solution is too thick at the channel part? I use the consistency of juice or even thinner. I use acetone too. Acetone evaporates much much faster. Prop also goes on better with multtiple ultra thin layers, dipped. Never had that moisture problem. Although prop does continue to cure and harden for up to a week or more, a day is enough to proceed with painting. I do it one warm days here too, 40-45

Water coming out? That would mean the wood is not really dry or humidity level where you are is really high. Maybe you should consider baking ur blank b4 you seal to get rid of the extra moisture. Seal immediately after baking else the wood will re- absorb moisture from the air. Oh, weight your wood b4 & after baking, if theres a big difference then you definitely have a high humidity or green wood problem

Now Dean, Hulihee would be very practical if you are fly fishing

May i suggest the last one KC? - Napoleon III Imperial Be sure to post a pic when you trim it like that

Garibaldi Stubble Brett Mouche

Well if u're lazy about doing a search, I'm kinda lazy to type out very detailed process. Propionate pellets disolved in acetone, soak, dip, dip, dip, dip. Wait a day. Done.

Cotton Cordell Wiggle Craw? I'm just guessing

I'm guessing a Maskita Bait?

LOL that was easy for you Jason. Okay hit us now. Anyone wants to try shell finishing the shell sheets are actually available

LOL Crankbait, don't you think the wives casting lures at the wrong answer be more appropriate? Okay, we get the concession of barbless hooks Okay, I am asking for the manufacturer on this one. Good luck.

Nils Master Bidgee 8cm (I have an old Nils Master and there's a Bidgee listed there which i haven't seen b4, and a google search confirms it )

Been scratching my head too Nathan but Rapala has a Team Esko by Lauri Rapala which is very similar but look carefully, this one has 2 belly hooks. Vicious lure lol.

I can guess a whole long list of NOTs for now so I'd better not say that LOL