LaPala

Bob I beg to differ in the ranking: 1 - depth 2 - bait size 3 - action 4 - color pattern This is the sequence I do when rummaging thru the tackle box to decide which one to tie on until the fishes tells me otherwise but not before I have exhausted all the presentation variations (fast,medium,slow,pause,jerk,twitch,stop......etc). And at the end of the day.... you can never have enough lures LOL.

I just use a sharpened hollow steel punch to start the hole with. They come in all the standard eye sizes you need. Just twist the hole punch and it cuts a perfect circle to prevent tear out. They come in hex end type that you can plug into a battery drill too. Waste removal after is as easy as lifting the "plug" out along the grain of wood with a light pry or a Dremel.

Thanks Bob, that's a great little book to read. From the file size it seem this is a new expanded version?

That is a very valid point Tigger. I have a ready illustration I made for a pencil bait but it applies to cranks as well. Not only is the line tie position important but we should factor in the fact that there is a slight swift in position as well as we work the lure(distance and depth). So for pickier hunting lure we should actually be designing for a "range" of position of the tow eye that still makes the lure work instead of looking at a line tie as one single point. And don't worry about little cranks Tigger, you make little cranks you catch dinks as I do LOL. Note: Final design has the lip's leading edge shaved, when they are this tiny every little bit counts. There is no added weight for this lure either; everything is designed to come togather to make it's mojo. Sorry for the picture sizes, this is what I have handy. Now is battle time to get kids ready for school so didn't have time to resize them.

Post your thoughts Dave, I for one think design is one of the key elements to make a lure wobble like how the builder wants it to. A lure is a system where all the parts contribute to it's performance, you could not isolate a single factor and say this is what makes it move like it does.I do not have time to elaborate but look at a lure with lips as a fulcrum system, the lip is where the force is applied to move it with the fulcrum point at the lure's COG. So to move this fulcrum system back and forth efficiently, from the design stage; every component has to be carefully distributed to provide the best balance to make it wobble (this includes the shape as well, as shape supplies the surface area which contribute to water resistance which is part of the overall force on the lure as well.... Shape affects buoyancy distribution hence overall lure balance and in part adjust the fulcrum point (ie: where and how to weight a lure)..... and many others.... and all the inter-dependent factors). I am over simplifying but this is a start.

You are hardly playing fair here Dave.... You are hunting

CA is not waterproof either. Actually one of the method to remove CA if you fingers got stuck is to soak it in warm/hot water....

It's all here Pete: http://www.ustream.tv/user/tuwebcast/videos

What Husly said; and I don't bite. Just sharing my experience with the techniques.

I think you have missed the point there. Husky's solution is always based on ONE major point: "Spend as little $ as possible." is the motto. Actually in some situations, the tissue method is way more elegant than using water slide decal. The texture of paper gives the print a bit more 3D effect and does look more realistic compared to smooth gloss from water slide decal. JMHO:tipsy:to Husky the FRUGAL

Geppa That is a nice piece of work there. Welcome and I am sure you have a lot you can share with us.