LaPala

Haha okay Sinyo. And that is a good idea. Stick to one and get it to work and perform as you plan for it to. Jumping from one to another before you get one right will not teach you as much as if you build to death one single lure type.

Sinyo are your still trying to make a sinking lure?Usually to make a sinking lure you want to start with a floating type but have the lure either floating horizontal or slightly nose down. Then gradually add weight to the balancing point until it sinks at the rate you want. Next step mod the lip size or add a slight cup to compensate for the lost in action if needed. You do not need a lip to make a sinking lure dive. The lip in this case is just needed to make the lure dig in and provide the wiggle. You "sink" the lure to it's working depth.

Dave I cannot agree with you on both of that. You are obviously not looking at sinking crank from the right perspective and the mechanics of a sinking crank is different from a floating crank too. The key is one is cranked to it's running depth and the other "countdown" to desired running depth. To make comparison easier, just look at Rapala Original Floating Minnow and compare it to a Countdown. Obviously one floats and the other sinks. Now ask yourself when would you use a Rapala Original and when would you fish the Countdown. Both lures are essentially the same with the difference of just the weighting scheme. Here are the X-ray of both lures: Original: Countdown: Now got out and buy one of each and fish it. Then compare if they reach the same "natural running depth". Fish both in all types of water condition too, still water, running water, rapids perhaps. Your answer to the advantage of a sinking crank is at the end of this test.

Dave that is a sweeping remark... Just to list a few, what about Rapala Count down, Magnums and RatLTrap (sub-category of crank) and a plethora of other less widely known sinking cranks. They have a place in the arsenal. Now you tell me what are the advantages of a sinking crank.

Thanks for info Spare Tire, having 230V over here I always need to know some product specs to work on.

Very nicely done pictorial there. That sure comes in handy. Can you tell me the rating for the pen you make (watt, amp, volt of the power supply required)?

Errr if you have the Autocad file why are you converting from bmp to G-code? Used the dxf file and convert to G-code should work better. Just google "dxf to g code converter" lots of free options out there. bmp is a graphic file and it represents individual pixels, dxf, dwg, hpgl are mathematical formula that represents lines and curves and would convert better to G-code.

G'day mate, small world. Good to see you here.

Diemai, I have only the pleasure of owning an UKKO original catalog . At the time when UKKO was still an independent company and the lure going for USD20++ was a bit too rich for me then. So I have no idea at all what the actual action and weighting is like but can only infer from what is in the catalog literature. I have always been intrigue by the UKKO designs. Could it be Rapala Tail Dancer "improved(?)" on the original Turus UKKO but that is another topic.

Check out the Turus Ukko big jerk too. Google should lead you to a picture of one

My vote is for #3 & #4, might need a bit more thinkering with inlet hole size and orientation, keep the outlet small.

Wow that is really some bait and the design looks good. Now show me the winch you are going to haul the fish in with

LMAO Phil, for that application I'd suggest using at least M8 SS tempered rods. Wires wouldn't hold.

I'll wait for your photos Jamie Just a note, a straight thru hole with bigger inlet compared to outlet would work better, bending passage of water will make it less effective.

Just curious, where did you locate your inlet hole Jamie? Vodka, I think you have read enough patents and or manuals related to ur former job to know you can't really tell much from what they write

It's not the holders tilting rofish, it's the lure themselves. Especially the longer minnow lures and lipless lure.

Jaime, what you want to do definitely needs a multi-part mold. A minimum of 3 part should work. Part one would be the head (or just a cap) with a formed metal rod that you can pull out to form the vents; then a 2 half molds for the body. As to your venting design there are quite a number of top water lures that has incorporated vent holes that I know of which you can check out for some guide. One of the 1st lures that I know of with this design is the HMNG Bubble Popper 2 Duct. Daiwa came out with another much later called Saltiga Pencil with a gill vent. Patended Open Gill design is what they call it (US Pat No. 5276992) In btw there are a few more designs that has this venting. I think Dean or KcDano could give us even older examples. But theorathically what you want to be looking at are cavitation effect or check out a water aspirator design. All these effect occurs at higher speeds though. You can make it work in a lure which has a large inlet with a "tunnel" to force the water out thru very small vent producing a high speed water jet in the outlet. The design of the tunnel is the key to make it work. Inlet position is important too so the lure action is retained while promoting the path of water that needs to be channeled into your "aspirator" in the lure.

Rofish, anyone who wants a portable clears his lures not just in a shop; so the addiction part is definitely a prerequisite . Btw, you can buy transformer that converts car DC to AC and run than motor while you are driving towards your fishing destination too I used a portable almost like your design b4 but I used exacto knife handles to hold the lures. Problem is in a moving car with the other side of the lure hanging free, they tend to want to fall or tilt out of place so I added a second wheel with rubber bands as shock absorbing holder

There are those who use epoxy as a wood sealer. So painting on epoxy is not a problem at all. I would scuff the smooth epoxy 1st b4 painting to let the paint have more "bite". (Mechanical bond is the more technical term for it)

LMAO Dave, you have lost your way. Get back to the engineering path, I'll have more stuff to read that way.

Mark, I humble accept your hat Pete, I was forced to be busy lol, w/shop still pending full completion so I'm still suffering from lure making withdrawal syndrome. It just no fun to work without the full complement of what tools you know you have but is now residing in boxes I think the carvings you saw were to illustrate the article I was writing for a local fishing mag on variations to a pencil. Maybe I'll put the translated version up when it's already published (you know terms with the publisher yadayada...) Dave, your rating is about the same as my motor. But I am surpriced you asked Dave. It's an engineering problem that is right down your alley to solve. You have the watt, you know the diameter of wheel you want to build and the average weight of the lures you are going to hang there. So you can get your angular momentum from there and determine if it is within the "watt" range of your motor. Or if you want to be more precise, Moments of Inertia graph can be plotted too

Keep your hat on Mark or you might catch a cold It's not teak, I'm not even sure what wood it is. I noticed the wood was a bit spalted in a heap of wood the contractors are using to make concrete moldings so I requisitioned it Here's a clearer view of the wood wheel and support which is from the same piece of plank.

Here's my portable wheel. Motor from a microwave oven. The centre aluminum rod can be dismantled so I can pack it up for longer fishing trips. I'm always stuck with top-coating my lures the night b4 I fish (Thumbnail linked to bigger pic so it doesn't break hse rules )

Don't worry, you can catch me "left" one of these days. But I avoid that by not posting as much. The more u talk the more mistakes you make.