johnnytheboy

power pro is more or less standard in the uk for pike fishing, i use 65lb and have lifted lures out with it no probs 25lb berkley big game for bait fishing its the out and out hard man of the monos

hi there, a bit silly and basic but what type of foil do you guys use, is it just the regular stuff for wrapping your turkey in for the oven i can't possibly think of any gold foil in everyday usage, what source do you have for that thanks in advance tightlines john

hi there silicone tubing isn't like heat shrink its just an elastic tubing that you can slide over things, it is pretty useless though and shrink tube is actually far better, more robust, i think they have used it as it is available in all the tackle shops over here as the carp lads use it in rig making windknot i just use plain old crimps nothing else, i've used them on titanium wire upto 50lb 7 strand wire to 90lbs and had no bother, a bit off topic but do you use heavy duty split rings as well? I always make sure everything upto the baits screw eyes are bullet proof the only weak link i have is the split rings, say rings of 50-90lbs pull as i haven't had fish break them but when you snag up with power pro braid and decent components in between you can pull to straighten out split rings or hooks, and thats one less lost lure, it always your good lure that gets stuck as well tightlines john

hi there, we use 7 strand wire for our bait traces, i have always crimped there was a study done in the uk by a big tackle manufacturer that worked out crimps on average withstood 2lbs more pull before they broke than tied wire, anyway that aside its always a big debate in the uk when you bring up the tied or crimped issue, persoanlly i crimp and have had not probs and some of my friends tie and have no probs, needless to say as long as your confident with it then use it, i did a litle search of our uk sites and came up with this one that shows how we make a bait trace, hope it helps http://www.pacgb.co.uk/tips/tracemaking.html

thanks for all the replys, my minds boggling abit now, i dunno if you guys get carlsberg adverts over there but if they were to do honeymoons theirs would probably be like windknots list anyway back to reality, have been pushing for a weeks fishing knowing well i won't get it, however that tactic is paying off as i have definetly got 4 days fishing, windknot if you like whisky you'd like the shop by my house its a specialist whisky and beer shop, its 100yrd walk from my house, most of that 100yds you can actually fish as well, its a lousy fishing area but you can't beat going for carry out and fishing en-route, i can often be found stumbling and casting in a drunken fashion with a bag chinking with drink and lures, i'm not a whisky drinker sadly charles, its abit funny but i went to college near cambridgshire and i never fished in all the time i was there either, the affore mentioned list was my prioritys as well you guys know if your on this side of the pond your more than welcome to drop in for a spot of fishing

thanks guys, i seen a slide show one day over here, a guy had been at rollie and hellens, also to a massive big musky shaped building that was a museum, there was a musky bar or something as well which he said was pretty rough, anyway it all looked good the area he had been to, i take it that was wisconsin??? windknot, if we get to your neck of the woods i'll bring you some real nice whisky anyway i have the green light for abit fishing on the understanding that the hotel has a health spa for the other half to spend her time when i'm fishing, she is a girly girl and doesn't do mud, boats, mozzies etc etc, so i should be able to get some real fishing, i should be able to wangle about 4 days at the fishing as we are doing a tour, i keep hearing tiffanys jewelery mentioned, the wallet i no where as near fat as a vw, and looks likely to have been emptied by the time i get back, that will be alaska off the cards, what you've gotta go for a bit fishing this sounds totally dull to you guys but where is TN?, Boyhowdy cambridgeshire has some cracking fishing, we were there last year for the pike, and some nice fish as well, i out fished the locals and they were abit miffed tightlines john

will it sand and drill ok??? does the foam absorb water once cured?? think i might give it a bash

with a wedding on the horizon, a honeymoon is being planned, anyway my (maybe not her) plan is to get to the otherside of the water (usa) and stock up on lures rods, reels fishfinders, the list goes on.... anyway abit of a tour of the states canada and possibly alaska are on the cards, the big thing on my mind as well as mucho cheap tackle is of course fishing, whats on offer for the visiting angler??? I've heard about sturgeon which sound good also i'm daft on pike so musky and pickerel are up there on the list, bass fishing that everyone seems to be wild about must be worth a try, anyway the big question is where should i head to, where is the best area to get a shot at a few things??? I'll not be taking tackle with me so i'll likely go guided, provided i haven't spent all my cash sampling local beer anyway any suggestions?? tightlines john p.s. somewhere i'm not likley to get eaten with a bear or shot by some gangstas like in your movies

the only problem i can see with this is i don't make all lures the same i weight them diffrently to work in diffrent ways, plus the weight is pretty low down in the bait, mould wise its exactly along the line of what i'm looking to do i don't know what this foam you are using is but would it work as a wood subsitute, i.e. is it strong enough not to be wired through and just glue the screw eyes in place?? has anyone any idea wat this luhr jensen ac plug is made out of, it also looks pretty solid stuff one last question i was gonna ask are the pig lures plastic, i have some suspending piglets and they look like they may have had a hole drilled for front weight?? tightlines john

i'd say benton is right a single action is best, i have had a look about and can see any that would be easier to hold than the others, bagder and paasche do single action brushes, i paint lures with a single action brush and have perfectly fine results tightlines john

husky, that process you have there would be ideal, what i would be interested in is something along those lines without the harness in the bait (glueing or scewing in traditional lure eyes would be handy) so i could drill away quite happily to add weights and not have to worry about damaging the internal wires with the drill the idea occured to me with one of my lures, its a luhr jensen ac plug as soon as i got it the paint and topcoat fell off the diving surface exposing the plastic underneath (white stuff) none of the rest of the lure or the inside of the lure has been affected, the stuff it is made from looks drillable etc and this lure floats (i don't know if its hollow or not) which would seem ideal, also it seems strong enough to put upwith the beating a pike lure takes it was 25 quid as well so i'm not for cutting it up to see either jed, have you had any reasonable results with the plastics???

Hi There, I was wondering if anyone knows of any kind of wood substitute, any kind of plastic that could be filed, drilled, sanded, weighted etc whether it be something from stock or something you could pour into a rough mould then finish of shaping and filling I have seen the ideas of casting the weights and hook hangers etc into plastics but thought this might be abit complicated to start of with, something that was workable would be a godsend Its just we could save alot of hastle with wood having to seal it then worrying about the paint all cracking off old lures that may take on water once chipped anyone came across any plastic that are reasonably workable???? Tightlines John

hi there, a glider is more or less as it says it glides out quite far to each side, i have had more fish on these lures than anything else, they are the ones i mentioned previously, they are weighted fairly neutral, and they can be fished slow as you like, the ones i have glide out quite far then cause they are neutral they hang out there if you pause, and i'm sure its this time during the pause that triggers alot of fish, a darter is just what loz harrop names his version of a glider a turn bait just turns to one side then the other, and don't glide out to far, if the fish are walloping lures and feeding actively i tend to use those or erratic type lures that will keel over, simply because you can fish them a little faster and cover more water the ones i have are fairly neutral they do sink ever so slowly, i fish them to about 6-7 feet at the most nothing overly deep, i finished one that gets down deep recently but haven't been able to get out with it to test it out

if your adding lead you could drill it out till you get the lure sitting right in the water as river man says, what lure are you trying to make????

hi there, i mainly use smaller lures than those from the usa side of the pond, check out the roach glider and the copy of the loz harrop darter (small) on lurebuilding 101, my friend made them for me before i was into lure building and they have caught me more scottish pike than anything or any other lure, these are esox lucius that i have been catching which are the same pike as in hungary not huge big muskys, the loz harrop darter will glide as far as any flat sided bait will glide, the ones i have are copys but my friend has 20 odd darters made by loz himself and they don't half glide they are diffrent from the salmos as salmos are a turn bait (similar to rivermans beer belly) rather than a glide bait, both excellent lures on their day, i was gonna make a few as well, what did you make them from??? they look excellent

jed whats elmers? when you mean stick back foil is it similar to 3m ali tape cheers john

excellent thanks again guys

i was wondering what glue you guys use to stick on ali foil or printed paper to lures??? can't get a hold of water slide decals and was gonna foil and/or print onto regular paper and glue it on do you foil over your regular base coat??? cheers john

hi there, they are dotted on, i got the tip from here on how to paint on lure eyes, it was with diffrent sized drill bits and cocktail sticks simply dipped in the paint looks effective, thanks for the help guys (next one will be foiled loads of questions to ask on this as well) cheers john

thanks guys for all the tips, got there in the end with my first airbrushed lure, no rattle cans, its a brown trout colour glidebait made in mahogany, glides fine and i weighted this one to stay down where i want it thanks again

Hi there, these base coats from createx the white and black ones, are these for a as is says base coat before sprayng other createx (colours) over the top of does everyone who uses createx use these base coats, is it best for hastle free painting??? i've had a nigthmare on the old paint front recently and wantto find a system that works with minimal hastles tightlines john

anyone know if you advertise something on e-bay and it does not sell do you have to pay them the fees??? cheers john

i think it will be the same with the anti scuff stuff, its a medium solids lacquer so it will take a few coats to get any kind of build on it the other stuff we have the bmw stuff has this flex agent in the lacquer, it might give both a bash and see what kind of results i get with it have any of you guys used the mini spray guys like the sata minijet or devilbiss sri, i think iwata do one as well but i can't recall what it is, i don't think this lacquer will spray well through an airbrush, i think one of these might be the order of the day

i asked about this flex additive and appartently it is used alot as there are loads of plastic panels, bonnets, doors, bootlids, roofs etc etc the lacquer we are using at my work for mercedes is spies hecker, its one of the biggest known quality brands in the uk i also looked at these staged pearls and fancy putting it on a few lures the only thing is the cost, i'll have to be selling a few lures to afford that stuff i was told as well that if your doing lures with alot of patterns/colours to lacquer after each one as the layering gives it almost a 3d look, i've never tried this so i can't comment, but its likely i'll get the dabbling head on and try it am i right in saying the orange peel effect could be blocked out if you build the lacquer up enough, this was my plan at least as i want to layer the stuff on thick, the dash board we done had deep wood grains in it, once it was finished it was like glass

the anti scuff lacquer, is something brought out by mercedes, it is an attempt firstly to stop those swirl marks that paintwork picks up, the big paint manufaturers have brought out similar versions for the industry to try to keep any post manufacturer paintwork as close to standard spec as possible i was thinking about painting it on with a mini spray gun (sata minijet or devilbiss sri) that way i could build the coats up till it is nice and thick, we have just finished a wooden dash board for a very old jaguar at work, its been laquered 8 times and has been flatted back to a finish that is pretty much unbelivable its like glass, thats where i got the idea from would there be much diffrence between dipping and spraying?? apart from the dipping coat being initially thicker never heard of a flex additive, i'll have to find out about that one