bladesandbaits

First of all thank you Dean for this post. I appreciate the friendship you and I share as well as the other friendships we all share at TU. I was honored that Jason "gatOr" Sealock gave me the opportunity to have a voice in this article. The staff at FLW truly has it's sights on continually elevating the sport of fishing of all species to the highest level possible. The January issue was a small example of bigger and better things to come. Not just the Custom Baits article but the entire Magazine. If any of you have the opportunity to pick one up I hope you do so. Not just for the purpose of reading the article I contributed to, but for the other great information and articles.The magazine has taken on a new face and has a new vision. Iv'e said it before and I say it again. This site is compiled of some of the best Lure Makers in the world as well as the most information to help others get started. Many of us come here not only to learn, but also to be in the company of others who share the same passion. Before I came to TU I had become complacent(sp) with what I was doing with lures. Joining TU fueled the fire for me once again and all of you encouraged me to try and take what I do to another level! I appreciate this more than you will ever know. For every one of us here at TU that feel we are at the top of our game. There are two more out there who dont even own a computer that are just as good or better.We should never loose site of that! Thanks again Jason,Chris and Will T. You guys are "Top Shelf" JT Prior (bladesandbaits)

It will be back good as new before long. We all need to do what we can to help if called upon. I too owe much to the existance of this site,and it's members. Blades

Well I just be damn! I just read the original post and realized there were more that wanted to participate. To all those I am very sorry. It was nothing personal. I took a leave of abscence for a while. Once again I am very sorry. Blades

Awesome craw chuck! Blades

LOL, LMAO These wont yellow mr coley, they have a shot of yellow pearl over the whole bait.So I guess we will never know.(kidding) Husky. It is just for fun. We I am going to do a test. Devcon against Etex against my stuff. My stuff is a uerethane 4 to one mixture. I have tinkered with the formula a little. Now I dont think for a minute that mine is superior. I just decided to do a test thats all. It sort of got to be a joke I guess. Problem is, I think the "zeel" may be lost because my procrastinating.I did not get these to Tally until not long ago and the thread was going on back before christmas.Any way enough about all that. Here, i guess i can open the can of anaconda's again lol. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5582&highlight=devcon+challenge Take care all, thanks for the nice comments Blades

These have been around for a pretty good while. They were featured in the December Issue of Tackle Retailer. They have been around privatley for several years and they began marketing them in 2006. They have a lipped crankbait as well called a "hot back" Here is the link. http://www.meatandpotatoes.net/HotBackFTR.htm Blades

waterweasle, as said before yes. The food coloring search is a good tip. It is still experimenting but once you figure the ratios just document it. Another tip: When you think you are close on the color run the whole mixture through an old time flour sifter about three times.This will reeally mix it up well and fluff it as well. There are a few colors that will tend to seperate on you when you heat the paint at the time of coating.But that again is just trial and error. Example: To make a killer green pumkin. 1 part protec watermelon 1/2 part protec black 1/3 part protec chartruese The chartruese is what gives it that puky green look Blades

Pop, if you are going to use epoxy clear coat then about any water base paint will work. The good thing about water base paint is if you fowl up you can wipe it off quick and start over. I have found that createx sometimes will act funny over cured powder paint.Sometimes it seperates and the edges dont stay round.Hard to explain. Latex paint is good. The cheap craft paint in the 2 oz bottles works good as well. If you sre going to use powder clear for top coat then you have to experiement because the heat is going to blister the paint. Blades

Hoosier, I am not sure the knowledge data is back up yet. I am still having to learn this new format but the (tut) you are looking for is in ther. I believe it was put there by Artbrush(shawn) Maybe someone else like Tally can direct you. Blades

Awesome Muskydan!!!! I tell you these lures you guys are making are about as clean and profesional as any I have ever seen. My hats off to you guys. Blades

Awesome Coley. Blades

Blades checking in.Great job Red and everyone else.I like what i see so far. Thanks for getting it going again. Blades

Just an old hack saw maybe worth a buck or two. Pick up a couple of springs. The rest is pretty self explainatory. But this thing works like a champ! Blades

Sorry,shold have worded it different. Rad Lures is not sold. Ronosky has the rights to Manufacture,and Market,it. Sort of a co-op if you will. Surely this will get more products on the shelf and in more stores. I know there were some issues about quality but I think it must have been becase the paint did not stay on well. I cant immagine Renosky improving it very much,maybe paint that is a little tougher.It will be interesting in the future where the product goes from here wont it.

Ron Davis sold the chatterbait to Joe Renosky. Zucker never owned it as mentioned before in another post. I am glad for Ron. I wont disclose the amount but he did very,very well. Good for him. LOL in a short while we are gonna see a video,an info-mercial,and end caps full of them at BPS and everywhere else with a "As Seen On TV" label on them ha ha. Blades

Skeeter,yes it is one of those models from Alabama. Sorry no answer sooner, was out of town a couple days and mowed hay the rest of this week. Blades.

Congradulations Jeffery Thomas,Kelly and Sporilla! Good to see Thomas in the top 10. I watched the wiegh in live a few minutes ago and your man gave you props! He stated he wa using a custom painted jerkbait by Custom Lures Unlimited as well as Wiggle Wart on the final day. The most important thing IMO was he gave you guys the credit you deserved.Not just in print but his verbal statement will surely be on TV. This means when the TV coverage comes on everyone will see it as well. I am proud for you all. Blades Here is the coverage on Thomas for those of you who are interested.The final story will not come until maybe tomorrow.Keep checking at www.flwoutdoors Day 1 Flw Beaver Lake http://flw.flwoutdoors.com/tournament.cfm?cid=1&tid=5346&tday=1&atype=0 Day 2 http://flw.flwoutdoors.com/tournament.cfm?cid=1&tid=5346&tday=2&atype=0 Day 3 http://flw.flwoutdoors.com/tournament.cfm?cid=1&tid=5346&tday=3&atype=0

Sorry Snook I was a little to general in the instructions. Lets take the simplest answer first:(this is for a total repaint) When I stated "mask" i did mean mask the lip.Either wood or plastic. I use a vinyl tape that I get from the auto paint supply house. I use both the 1/8th wide and the 1/4 inch wide stuff. The vinyl tape I am talking about is used for masking automobiles for painted on pin striping or tight places.This tape stretches and conforms to the curves where the lip meets the body. The other advantage is when you are finished with the job the tape pulls away easily and if you are carefull will leave a very clean transition from painted surface to unpainted surface. I try to take the time to even mask the side of the lip on a bait that the lip is cut in to. I stick a piece of tape on and take an exacto knife and trim it nice and neat. Ok having said all that here it is straight and simple: 1-I mask the lip coles to the body first.Side as well if lip slot . 2-Trim with exacto knife if need to. 3-The remainder of the lip gets a total tin foil covering- 50% of the time I will use blue painters masking tape. 4-When I have finished painting and ready to top coat I remove all the masking 5- I remask the Lip with the blue masking tape about 1/4 inch from where the lip and body meet.I do this because i want my top coat to cover a small portion of the lip.This is strickly to prevent my paint job from being compromised at the body lip transition. Finished Results -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok for the factory foiled and prism side baits you had just rather clean up and try to preserve. Get all the hardeware off Clean it real good.Hoodady's rubbing alcohol seems good enough for me for something to clean it good. But if you encounter a problem with the alcohol reacting to the foil or prism sides(which I doubt you will), try some mild detergent-maybe some diluted "Simple Green" maybe someone else has a sudgestion. Let the bait dry good Mask the lip like I mentioned maybe 1/4th inch from the lip to body transition. The apply top coat. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now here is a potential can of worms about to open. 1st and formost forget the deal with clear Lacquer for protection. Do a search on top coats here and YOU, and I mean YOU make the decision which top coat to try. If it were me in your shoes I would think seriously about a 2 part epoxy top coat for starters.Just be carefull. If the bait you want to re- top coat still has a factory top coat on it , but is just dull and ugly.you may want to go easy on the thickness and number of coats. You could wind up with a bait that feels like a wet dish rag on retrieve when you do get an opportunity to fish it. But hell, the main thing is dont put to much pressure on yourself to get it all just right.As Tally said you are going to ruin a couple baits here and there but thats just the way it is. It's not a big deal. Good luck with it! Blades

First off Skeeter, Hoodady,thank you for the compliments. You are too/ kind. :!: It goes both ways guys,I have learned much from these guys as well. Behind the scenes we give Tally Boy hell.But when you get right down to "brass tacks" he is about the most diligent son of a buck you will ever meet.I am serious this guy may be as sharp as anyone I know.He has asked me questions ,then figured it out before I could. Skeeter is as good a crank bait man as you will find anywhere.There are many others here as well trust me.I speak of these guys only because we have become friends through the existance of this forum.Skeeter pasion to build the absolute best bait is unbelievable.Not to mention he wants you,me and everyone else here to take the time and effort to do the same. Skeeter/Cullin8's/Tally /Lapala and Coley were among the first ones to welcome me here.We have all disagreed with each other publically here on this forum,but still have respect for the other ones knowledge.I would say this goes for the majority of this forum.Ha,Ha just do a search on clearcoats.Note(please dont let that subject run you crazy)LOL I cant say enough good about this forum and all it's members!Period Paragraph! As for the repaints. There is more to this than just slapping some paint on.Things that will become more and more important as you get deeper in to this are things like: What kind of topcoat is on the bait before you start Does the bait suspending before you start Wood or Plastic Most of these would be taken in to concideration when the decision needs to be made to strip the bait down completly or just get it prepped like it is. If it were me starting I would do the basics: Supplies needed are as follows: Sponge sanding blocks (sand paper covered sponge) Normally one side is fine grit and the other is coarse. A Scotch Brite pad Some soap and water Krylon gloss white (be prepared to get some Enamel Spray white) Protection for your hands Prep for repaint: 1-Sand good with the Sponge.You can turn the square sponge different angles to get to the crevises. 2-Go to the sink and wash the bait using the scotch brite pad as a scrub brush. 3-Rinse very good in hot water 4-Lay the bait on a clean shop towel to air dry 5-Try to use some protection on your hands like surgical gloves or rubber kithcen gloves when doing this next step. When you are sure the bait is dry take some type of alcohol/thinner or some type of NON OILY SOLVENT and wipe the bait ever so lightly with a paper towel . (it dont take much the key is something that evaporates quick) Try not to lay the bait back down on anything until the solvent is dry. (this only takes a minute) If the bait has a lip mask itf Base coat with Krylon (at first just spray a very light coat and give it a few minutes to dry. If you see the paint start to crackle or look funky reprep the bait and go to the enamel) The enamel takes a hell of a lot longer to cure than Krylon white. The reason for the test shot of Krylon is that some baits have a top coat on them that just dont like Krylon.And I dont give a crap how much you sand it the Krylon will crackle.(Some Bomber/Manns/Bill Lewis products give this problem) The reason for Krylon first rather than enamel is most cases the bait will take the Krylon.Krylon dries much quicker. This is a quick and dirty prep for a basecoat.I normally prime my baits first with automotive lacquer primer but all that can be discussed once you get your feet wet.If you prep the bait like mentioned above you will have a nice base to began painting on.And it all starts with a good base. Sorry to rock on here. Hope some of this helps. Blades