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bladesandbaits
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Everything posted by bladesandbaits
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Tony has been cleared to compete again.FLW notified him this week via letter.He told us that he is uncertain if he will fish anymore.I was looking around on another site and have already seen the garbage getting started again.Some say it is a letter generated by mistake.I dont know what is what anymore.I do no that Tony is my good friend and I was never willing to throw that away even when it seemed that everyone else was ready to hang him. I cant see why Tony would come out and tell me and others that he was cleared if it were not true.I forgot to ask him what status he would return to.Will he have to come through the ranks again or resume next years schedule?I will ask him more when the time is right. I want to tell all of you that I think the members here are a "class act". I have taken the time to read quite a few of the past post's.Even though you guys and gals have your own opinions,you know how to discuss them in a democratic way that is not offensive. When reading the contents of this other site I mentioned ,I get the impression that the site belongs to a selected few,and everyone else just jumps on the gossip wagon.Its just plain silly to act this way.I am very proud that there is a forum such as this one that someone like me can go and join in on topics without thinking I have to agree with everybody or suffer ugly comments and be downgraded. As for Tony,I have never ask him what actually happened and he has never told me.If he wants to keep it to himself its ok with me.How do you throw a friendship away with no grounds to do so. Tony and I have a mutual friend that told him that if FLW has cleared him for compitition,then he should fish.Even if it is just one event.Just to show that he can and that his being cleared is not false.God Bless All Of You PS.Dont forget to vote!!!!!!!
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What are some other good topcoats?
bladesandbaits replied to TRIPLE C CUSTOM LURES's topic in Hard Baits
Ok,I think im probably goinig to open up a can of worms here.These guys in this forum are super nice and may I say are really sharp on these subjects,but here I go. There are plenty of other choices for top coats out there.Devcon is probably my last choice followed by Flexcoat,and Envirotex.There are pros and cons to all of them but the epoxy coats ,(only in my opinion have the most cons)Just read all the post here about problems.Anything from yellowing to air holes to uneven coat.If I wanted my lures to last and really endure the riggers of fishing I would use either a Laquer or Urethane base Topcat,But you better be willing to use some thinner for clean up. You want to use the ones with the largest amount of solid particles because they will give you the highest build and shine.You can purchase this at the automotive paint stores but be ready to pay$$$$. 1/2 gallon of the stuff I use is $90.00 I used epoxy for a long time.Let me compare the two.I travel quite alot so I conducted an experiment.I layed a plug coated with Devcon on the dash of my truck(August)along with a plug coated with Rand M RV86.Was gone 10 days.The devcon plug topcoat was yellow and had hairline fractures.The other was like the day I left it there.One day I will tell about the plug I submerged in water for two weeks.Maybe I was doing something wrong when using the epoxy.That is very possible but with the Rand M and PPG I just Spray it and and forget it.Just my honest opinion God Bless you and your family,JP PS.a good propane or butane tourch will cost $30.00 or so.That will take care of those nasty air bubbles in epoxy. -
soupysayso,(this is long) Thats a tough one.It depends on what pattern(technique)you are using.If your calling fish out of 50 feet,then it must be some sort of topwater bite/schooling bite.Here down south in the really clear deep lakes this is common.If the double fluke rig dont do it ,there are some mods to it that may help.Depends on how your rigging it. Usually having someone follow up with another bait wont do it for large lips. This is what we do in that case.There again it depends on the technique.I got into this same situation last weekend pre fishing for a tourny. I was catching good fish over a hump about 60ft with a Creek Chub and Lucky Craft Gunfish.I always use one of those Circle Hook trailers on anything topwater.(I will post a pic tonight).The trailer has about a 4 inch leader attached to it.The trailer threads through the back hook eye. When the trailing fish attacks, hook up odds are better especially if he (the other fish)is trying to take the bait from the other.Normally the trailing fish is the biggest one.Last week I had a 3 pounder and what appeared to be a 6 pounder on. The big one got off.When you hook up 2 the odds are high one is going to get off. I know this works on topwater bite but dont know about jerkbait or c-bait. One other tip about flukes.When schooling bass are blowing bait out of the water the double fluke rig is effective.The problem is that the fish down here have gotton finicky to a fluke.Remember the "scales fish formula?"We started using this on our flukes and presto!!!!!!Back in Buisiness.We (anglers i travel with)figure that when the Bass are blowing bait out of the water like they often do when schooling,they are looking for scales from injured baitfish.You have to apply it often but it does work.God Bless You And Your Family JP
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I did some plugs a few months ago for some guys in matt.I tied Krylon first and the feed back was OK but not all good.I sprayed the Krylon over the Top Coat also.The complaint was that the finish wore off . Once a few fish were caught the Matt Coat was comprimised. The reason these guys came to me was that they were paying 16+$$ for these Lucky Craft Matt lures and the finish was coming off. The Krylon lasted longer and looked just as good but I wasn't satisfied.I wont tolerate the finish coming off my lures.I went back to the drawing board and discovered that if I reduced the actual laquer paint with clear laquer + thinner the finish would stay on.Basic clear laquer has to be buffed to make it shine.It drys to Matt Finish. The Matt Lures from Japan have some sort of heat shrink with a photo finish. God Bless.JP
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With the Holidays coming up and the tragedy taking place in our country these days,this is a good thing to do.Its a great feeling to take place in something that effects someones life for the better. I will donate some custom painted crankbaits,spinnerbaits,and Flipping Jigs. Depending on the time frame Its very possible to get some guys to autograph a few plugs. I will watch the site for info to see if this is a go! God Bless JP
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: First of all what kind of airbrush are you using : Thinning is the way to go but multiple coats are sometimes agravating when using netting. A medium head on your airbrush is best Just enough air pressure to propell the paint is also best Try to mount the lure in a fly vice,hold netting in place with clips and rotate the bait so you are spraying at an upward direction to mid top then do the back. DONT LET NETTING MOVE!!!!!!!!!! Hold airbrush close to the bait and keep it moving(this is why the low air pressure and medium head is important is important) I really think you may have some problem with your airgun head and the wrong air pressure. I really dont have alot of exp. with water base but this works on laquer .Good Luck and God Bless.JP
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OK.heres my 2 cents worth.99% of strikes on a crankbait come either from the front or the front side of the bait. Ive seen this in a test tank and first hand from fishing. eye placement can be important and in my opinion it depends on the bait as to the placement. Plugs that run more nose down I place the eyes more to the Top and Front. Plugs that run more level,I try to place the eyes more to the sides(Jerk Baits) The kill spot or (Shad Dot) placement is equally important.Sometimes, fish dont want to eat the bait as much as they just want to injure it.Fish will literally BUTT! the bait (still from the front but glancing from the side).Thats were the shad dot comes into play.I try to place the shad dot at the middle side of the bait if its a crankbait,and just above the middle hook on 3 hook baits. On Top Water baits I usaully place the eyes on the bottom front and the shad dot on the bottom near the middle hooks (if 3 hooks bootm near middle hook) This can really make be important!!!!!! I dont believe that the fish decide to eat the bait because it has eyes on the front or back. Direction of bait travel and Mother Nature determine that.How many baitfish swim backwards? Crawfish swim backwards. I believe eyes and dots just help the fish locate the bait.You can tell alot about how the fish is attacking the bait if you observe how the bait is in his mouth when you unhook it.Eye color is important to.Ive painted alot of baits for touring anglers who want 2 of each bait with different eye colors.(Thats another topic maybe later) God Bless,JP [/u]
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Dwain,Shawn,Skeeter Thanks for the comments and warm welcome.I will post some pics asap.The problem is My "Boss" wife drove off the other day with the digital camera on the top of the van.I am working on replacing it but them things a cheap. Dwain,as you already know it is very important to keep records.If I lost my pattern notebook I would be in real trouble.I know what you mean about forgetting what youv'e done but write every step down.Its also good to take a picture for reference(sp)(just dont let the boss have the camera)Even if I do a lure for someone,and its not a color pattern I have on file, I keep a record of the steps in painting and a pic if possible along with name address phone.My wife will use the data base to send holiday cards.When you paint a lure for someone and they call you 6 months later wanting another then the records really help.I know i'm preaching to the sunday school class but this kind of stuff is important. Shawn,i think this site is great.I will try to keep up with what's going on but sometimes I dont get inside til late and it takes alot of time to look over the site.(Two kids,one cheerleading other football)You guys feel free to email me if you think I can help providing you dont see a reply on the board from me. Skeeter, Those pics of yours look 1st class. You are 100% right about short timers.If this is a hobby for some guys ,thats wonderfull.If its your buisiness,thats wonderfull too.We could devulge all of our knowledge (holding nothing back) but for someone to get really good at this it takes dedication and sacrifice to take all that info and make it work. I have ruened literally hundreds of lures but have never wanted to quit.I simply stripped them down and started over. You are 100%right about the talent and knowledge on this site.You know it has taken me years to learn.Aguy can visit this site and learn by reading in 3 or 4 hours what it's taken me 16 years to learn. Of course we all hold something back.We are lure designers,painters,builders.If we come up with something that is dynamite!!! we cant help but want to "sit on it" for a little while just to bask in our success. Like I said before you can devulge info or not but eventually,someone out there is sharp enough to break the code. I dont know how much I can help on some topics with regards to paint.Seems that most of you use createx and water base paint(which I see nothing wrong with) I only use acrylic laquer and alcohol paint.I also make about 80%of my colors from red/blue/yellow/black/white and accent them with pearls. Just the way i learned and guess I'm to hardheaded to change. Dwain ,I think I beat you in the BABBLE!! catagory.Grammer & spelling sucks to.Good night all--Say your'e prayers JP
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Dwain,In answer to your question. Bandit Olive Green#60 Originally called Gomer Pyle"Gomer"for short Excaliber/Bomber Bayou Bengal#45 Originally called "Bad Cat" There are others -my daughter names most of my colors.of course the names get changed and sometimes a little of the original color."Gomer had a chart.belly Once a very well known crankbait fisherman from North Carolina came to see me.He had me paint various lures for him.It just so happened that later Rapala came out with a jerkbait in Rainbow Trout that matched one of them to a "T". Cant take credit for that one but we all know whoMr.Crankbait King is sponsored by dont we? A couple of years ago i did some baits for Mark Davis. Chart White #01 shows up in the color chart.Sometimes your not 100%sure but if you painted it you have a real good idea. The sad thing is you may paint some plugs for some pro anglers and they do well on them. But they have commitments that dont allow them to devulge your contribution.I can tell you that if Mark catches em on your lure,he dont have a problem telling about it.
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cavu,you may be refering to a Jackplate.If so check out this sitewww.cook-mfg.com or type in "Jackplate on the search
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Rodney,I dont want to dispute anyones info to you but heres the Gospel on Aarons lure.Aaron did not use a bladerunner.He did try it but decided it needed more.He took the pony head mold,which is what the Bladerunner is made from and modified the hook and blade placement.He says that he intends to market the product when he's finished prototype modifications. Its true the Bladerunner is very very close to it. The Bladerunner is designed be used with a fluke attached.It is very effective on schooling fish and suspended fish around verticle structure.(Hint-Hint) Aarons pattern. It has a few drawbacks and needs to be retrieved slow. Bladerunners are and always have been made by Blademaster Lures/Suddeth Crankbaits.(Blademaster formally owned by Tracy Watkins then purchased by Joey Baskins who Also now owns Suddeth)Not tooting my horn but I modified the Do-It mold for Joey(owner of Blademaster)to make the Bladerunner.It had to be modified to get around Blakemores design since they own the design and have limitations on legally making the lure for re-sale You can find Bladerunners at Port Tronics Fishing World in Greenville SC.If you cant find them email me I will send you a few to try.
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I have visited this site many times.Mostly when I am in the hotel room passing time.I have been designing /testing/and custom painting lures for 16 years.I dont have a website.Most of my buisiness comes from touring pros and tournament anglers.I do some color design for a few hardbait company's from time to time.The tackle and lure buisiness is tough but can be very rewarding. I am very impressed with this website.The members posting info on this site shoot about as straight as any site I have seen.The willingness to share info on topics that are so secretive (sp)is overwelming.Its as if you guys and girls have known each other for years.It has taken years for me to learn what I know (with some help from others)but mostly from staying after it and continually trying new things.Lets face it,"everybody and there brother"makes spinnerbaits,jigs,and plugs.What sets you apart from the rest is comming up with that "new twist on the lure"that know one else is doing but at the same time not losing the functionality and fish catching ability of the lure. Know matter what color scheme you come up with or how many layers of pearl you put on a lure,trust me someone can and will "break the code"then you have to come up with another.This is an awesome sight .Hope you dont mind me butting in every now and again with my comments.Hopefully my comments in the future will help uphold the quality of this site.Thanks and sorry this post sounds like the intro to a book.JP[/u]
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Just looking around and saw this subject so I thaught I would jump in here.I will introduce myself on another page later. I love Chameleon paint. Once you start using them its hard to stop. The old timers call it "flip Flop"paint. The diffrent affects are endless.I firmly believe that this technique produces more color patterns that are hard to copy than any other. The trick to getting comfortable with "flip flop "is knowing what the end result will look like before you start to paint the bait because the clear coat is what really brings it to life.The only way to do this is through a lot of trial and error. The way I learned was by taking a bunch of 1/2 inch pvc pipe cut in 4 inch lengths,paint them black-then spray each" flip flop "color on the pipe-then clear. I have seen alot of the createx used but you will never truly experience the capability of "flip flops"until you spray it with laquer or urethane base paints. Thanks guys just my two cents worth.John